Help: Throwout bearing squeak
#1
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Help: Throwout bearing squeak
Long story short - About 6k miles ago I had the clutch, to bearing, master/slave, all replaced (Centerforce clutch and bearing, AC Delco m/s cylinders). Last month I had the tranny pulled to replace the shims. After the shop put the tranny back in the throwout bearing started to squeak. My regular mechanic says the tranny shop most likely didn't lube the bearing back up before putting the tranny back in. Now I'm staring expensive repair costs to replace that bearing (all labor, really).
My mechanic says the tranny shop is at fault. The tranny shop says the bearing is pre-lubed and sealed and needs no lubrication when the tranny is reinserted. Which one is right?
Wed. I'm going to meet with the owner of the tranny shop. He's gonna pull the transmission and look at the bearing. And he wants me to look at the bearing too, and decide if it's a bad part or faulty installation. Now I know a bit about cars, but I can't tell a bad bearing from one that was improperly installed. Can anyone help me here? Does the bearing need to be lubed up before reinserting the transmission? If so, where? Many many thanks.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
My mechanic says the tranny shop is at fault. The tranny shop says the bearing is pre-lubed and sealed and needs no lubrication when the tranny is reinserted. Which one is right?
Wed. I'm going to meet with the owner of the tranny shop. He's gonna pull the transmission and look at the bearing. And he wants me to look at the bearing too, and decide if it's a bad part or faulty installation. Now I know a bit about cars, but I can't tell a bad bearing from one that was improperly installed. Can anyone help me here? Does the bearing need to be lubed up before reinserting the transmission? If so, where? Many many thanks.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
#2
TO bearings are lubed & sealed when manufactured. However, the id of the bearing, the collar of the bearing that the fork attaches to, & the fork pivot ball all get greased manually with a dab of grease. This should be done by the installer. The TO bearing itself should be noiseless well beyond 6K miles.
Regards, FJK
Regards, FJK
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So the front of the bearing, the sleeve and the clutch fork all must be greased. If they forgot to do that, then they are at fault. I'll be sure to ask on Wednesday. The mechanic at the tranny shop told me that the bearing was not greased, so I assume that means at the least the front was not greased properly. I'm guessing the clutch fork wasn't greased either. We had the car on lifts and whenever we applied a tiny bit of pressure to the fork the squeak would stop. Same thing inside the car. Just barely tap the clutch pedal and the squeak stops entirely.
As for wear on the bearing, how can I tell? They're gonna pull it out and have me inspect it (as if I friggin' know what to look for), ie. determine whether the bearing crapped out on its own or fell victim to faulty installation. I'm banking on the latter, but the tranny shop is reluctant to admit fault. Any help would be greatly appreciated, cuz I'm sorta lost on this one.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
As for wear on the bearing, how can I tell? They're gonna pull it out and have me inspect it (as if I friggin' know what to look for), ie. determine whether the bearing crapped out on its own or fell victim to faulty installation. I'm banking on the latter, but the tranny shop is reluctant to admit fault. Any help would be greatly appreciated, cuz I'm sorta lost on this one.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
#4
I looks to me like you're going to be splitting hairs with the trans shop owner on what is greased, what's not, etc. I'll just give you more knowledge that you can use to work through this situation.
One of my earlier comments was the id of the TOB should be greased. New, the bearing usually comes with adequate grease. The rest of my points stand correct that the installer needs to grease the collar fork attachment & the fork pivot. When they pull apart your unit, its pretty obvious if there is grease or if it is dry or rusty.
Relative to the TOB itself being worn, the description in your last posts suggests that is not even the case. The TOB only starts to spin when you depress the clutch. It's at that point you say the noise actually goes away. A worn TOB is noticed when the clutch pedal is depressed, as evidenced by an abnormal noise (growling, chirping, screeching, slurshing). Your noise occurrs with the pedal up, leading me to believe the noise is associated with worn or not lubricated clutch accuating componets, ie fork pivot, TOB clip to fork, etc. Basically there is a slight amount of clearance slop in all the linkage combined that is taken up as you start to depress the clutch. Assuming all components are not worn per say, but not lubricated, the small amount of micro-motion can emit a noise. Same scenario you would find with new, but noisey front brake pads.
BTW, what "shims" did you change or install that started all of this? Just wondering?
Regards, FJK
One of my earlier comments was the id of the TOB should be greased. New, the bearing usually comes with adequate grease. The rest of my points stand correct that the installer needs to grease the collar fork attachment & the fork pivot. When they pull apart your unit, its pretty obvious if there is grease or if it is dry or rusty.
Relative to the TOB itself being worn, the description in your last posts suggests that is not even the case. The TOB only starts to spin when you depress the clutch. It's at that point you say the noise actually goes away. A worn TOB is noticed when the clutch pedal is depressed, as evidenced by an abnormal noise (growling, chirping, screeching, slurshing). Your noise occurrs with the pedal up, leading me to believe the noise is associated with worn or not lubricated clutch accuating componets, ie fork pivot, TOB clip to fork, etc. Basically there is a slight amount of clearance slop in all the linkage combined that is taken up as you start to depress the clutch. Assuming all components are not worn per say, but not lubricated, the small amount of micro-motion can emit a noise. Same scenario you would find with new, but noisey front brake pads.
BTW, what "shims" did you change or install that started all of this? Just wondering?
Regards, FJK
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It all started with a grind in 5th gear. The tranny has been rebuilt once before, so it wasn't anything major. The shop said all it needed was a shim kit. So they pulled the tranny, installed the new shims, put the tranny back in. I noticed the squeak a few weeks after the work was done (originally thought it was the a/c compressor again, and thought nothing of it, then one day I was like "that's not coming from the engine").
Like I said, the squeak is only present when the clutch is not engaged. The slightest pressure on the pedal causes it to shut up. When we had the car on the lift, the mechanic would apply a slight amount of pressure to the fork (I assume that's what it was, black lever-like thing coming from the tranny) and the squeak would stop. Both my regular mechanic and the tranny shop mechanic suspect the throwout bearing, so that's how I came to that conclusion. The tranny shop mechanic said that if I didn't have a hydraulic clutch, he would just adjust the slave cylinder and I'd be all set.
But according to you the t.o. bearing doesn't spin until the clutch is engaged? Then what is causing the noise? Not the t.o. bearing, but rather the fork pivot wasn't greased. Interesting. Why's everyone saying t.o. bearing then?
Thanks for your patience and help.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
Like I said, the squeak is only present when the clutch is not engaged. The slightest pressure on the pedal causes it to shut up. When we had the car on the lift, the mechanic would apply a slight amount of pressure to the fork (I assume that's what it was, black lever-like thing coming from the tranny) and the squeak would stop. Both my regular mechanic and the tranny shop mechanic suspect the throwout bearing, so that's how I came to that conclusion. The tranny shop mechanic said that if I didn't have a hydraulic clutch, he would just adjust the slave cylinder and I'd be all set.
But according to you the t.o. bearing doesn't spin until the clutch is engaged? Then what is causing the noise? Not the t.o. bearing, but rather the fork pivot wasn't greased. Interesting. Why's everyone saying t.o. bearing then?
Thanks for your patience and help.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
#6
I have heard that some vehicles use TOB that are constantly engaged, but I don't know if GM vehicles employ that technology. Another point...although anything is possible, TOB typically don't act up in 6K miles. I've done clutches at 60K miles & the bearing sounded fine before removal & looked fine when I pulled it apart. Obviously, I replaced it with the clutch because "I was already there".
I thought you were going to get the trans pulled on Wed (yesterday). What was the out come?
Regards, FJK
I thought you were going to get the trans pulled on Wed (yesterday). What was the out come?
Regards, FJK
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Wednesday as in the 20th. Sorry for the confusion. I still have a few days to bone up on my drivetrain knowledge before the big day. I've been reading tech. manuals for the past day or two.
Lemme see if I've got this right. The t.o. bearing sits in this sleeve that is connected to the transmission input shaft by the pivot ball. The pivot fork/ball cause the sleeve to move, and when the clutch is disengaged (floored) the bearing is pushed against the pressure plate causing the clutch to disengage from the engine, thus allowing the engine to spin but not the driveshaft. So, since my squeak only occurs when the clutch is engaged (released), this would imply that the squeak has something to do not with the t.o. bearing squeaking on the clutch side, but rather on the transmission input side, most likely at the pivot. Sound right? I'm still learning, so bear with me if I'm a bit off.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
Lemme see if I've got this right. The t.o. bearing sits in this sleeve that is connected to the transmission input shaft by the pivot ball. The pivot fork/ball cause the sleeve to move, and when the clutch is disengaged (floored) the bearing is pushed against the pressure plate causing the clutch to disengage from the engine, thus allowing the engine to spin but not the driveshaft. So, since my squeak only occurs when the clutch is engaged (released), this would imply that the squeak has something to do not with the t.o. bearing squeaking on the clutch side, but rather on the transmission input side, most likely at the pivot. Sound right? I'm still learning, so bear with me if I'm a bit off.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
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#8
The t.o. bearing is a one piece assembly consiting of the bearing & a collar. The bearing portion is to the front, the collar is to the rear of the bearing. This one piece assembly rides on the trans front bearing retainer. This allows the TOB assembly to move forward to disengage the clutch & rearward to engage the clutch. The face of the bearing contacts the fingers of the diaphram during disengagement of the clutch. Since the clutch is spinning, obviously what contacts the clutch has to be able to spin or turn as well. Hence the bearing.
What moves the bearing forward or rearward? The clutch fork. The fork attaches to the bearing through the afore mentioned collar. The clutch fork is mounted on a pivot ball plate. The pivot ball mount is fastened inside the bellhousing. The fork clips onto the ball mount.
Now, you see a portion of the fork sticking out of the bellhousing, to which the rest of your clutch linkage attaches. When the fork is pushed to the rear, the other end of the fork is moving forward, pushing the TOB into the clutch fingers, disengaging the clutch.
You can see that pivot ball acts as a support & hinge for the fork. The fork also contains spring clips that retain it to the TOB collar. (Note: Sometimes these clips get sprung open too far during installation of the TOB & can cause the bearing to rattle on the fork).
The end of the fork that attaches to the collar is like a "Y", hence the name fork. The tips of the "Y" are slightly curved,& these tips also need a dab of grease where they engage the collar.
So, anything mentioned above that allows attachment of one part to the next can produce a noise if not properly lubricated or if sufficently worn.
Did this help or really confuse you?
FJK
What moves the bearing forward or rearward? The clutch fork. The fork attaches to the bearing through the afore mentioned collar. The clutch fork is mounted on a pivot ball plate. The pivot ball mount is fastened inside the bellhousing. The fork clips onto the ball mount.
Now, you see a portion of the fork sticking out of the bellhousing, to which the rest of your clutch linkage attaches. When the fork is pushed to the rear, the other end of the fork is moving forward, pushing the TOB into the clutch fingers, disengaging the clutch.
You can see that pivot ball acts as a support & hinge for the fork. The fork also contains spring clips that retain it to the TOB collar. (Note: Sometimes these clips get sprung open too far during installation of the TOB & can cause the bearing to rattle on the fork).
The end of the fork that attaches to the collar is like a "Y", hence the name fork. The tips of the "Y" are slightly curved,& these tips also need a dab of grease where they engage the collar.
So, anything mentioned above that allows attachment of one part to the next can produce a noise if not properly lubricated or if sufficently worn.
Did this help or really confuse you?
FJK
#9
FJK has gave a lot of good advice and my past experience with my T5 is the TOB will make a slight noise but not squeak and what FJK said expalins it. Another thing to keep in mind to prevent wear on the TOB is put the car in neutral and take your foot off the clutch when sitting at a light to prevent wear on the TOB that is not needed.
Good luck with the mechanics your fighting a loosing battle. Make sure they lube it on the new one and don't use the old one.
When you say they shimmed it it sounds like they were shimming the flywheel to bring it back out to proper clearance so the clutch would engage the flywheel properly. My clutch shop turned my flywheel 3 times and finally said they would take the tranny out for $300 and put it back in b/c most people miss something when installing a tranny. I investigated the chatter I was getting when leaving in 1st and found out that my flywheel had been turned too much and needed shims which could only be found at the tranny shop. I finally just bought a new flywheel and fixed my annoying chatter problem. I would have a roller pilot budshing put back in when the tranny is out to help prevent wear on the input shaft. The Moroso part number is 41100 from Summit racing for about $10 bucks or go to chevy dealer and ask for a pilot bearing from a deisal truck..they are roller and will fit perfect. I know all this wasn't for your TOB but it may help. By the way, me and my dad can drop my T5 in 45 minutes and have a new clutch ready to go back in at the same time. It takes four bolts to unhook the T5 from the bell housing...the interior is the biggest pain to me and what waste the most time. Don't let them guys rip you off.
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1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.
1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip
(bought from my dad)
2000 GMC Sierra Regular Cab Stepside
285hp 5.3L w/ 3.42 gears and locking diff. (sold to my dad..no!!)
Good luck with the mechanics your fighting a loosing battle. Make sure they lube it on the new one and don't use the old one.
When you say they shimmed it it sounds like they were shimming the flywheel to bring it back out to proper clearance so the clutch would engage the flywheel properly. My clutch shop turned my flywheel 3 times and finally said they would take the tranny out for $300 and put it back in b/c most people miss something when installing a tranny. I investigated the chatter I was getting when leaving in 1st and found out that my flywheel had been turned too much and needed shims which could only be found at the tranny shop. I finally just bought a new flywheel and fixed my annoying chatter problem. I would have a roller pilot budshing put back in when the tranny is out to help prevent wear on the input shaft. The Moroso part number is 41100 from Summit racing for about $10 bucks or go to chevy dealer and ask for a pilot bearing from a deisal truck..they are roller and will fit perfect. I know all this wasn't for your TOB but it may help. By the way, me and my dad can drop my T5 in 45 minutes and have a new clutch ready to go back in at the same time. It takes four bolts to unhook the T5 from the bell housing...the interior is the biggest pain to me and what waste the most time. Don't let them guys rip you off.
------------------
1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.
1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip
(bought from my dad)
2000 GMC Sierra Regular Cab Stepside
285hp 5.3L w/ 3.42 gears and locking diff. (sold to my dad..no!!)
#10
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Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: W/C T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 BOLT 3.45 POSI
I can have the tranny out an dback in in a hour and a half, so it is really not a big job, try this get under your car pull the rubber boot off that goes over your fork and spray some kind of grease on the fork right in where the clucth fork and the ball meet in side the bell housing you could even try to put some whee the slave hits the fork. It could be that they did not grease it here or the fork and the ball are worn, I though it was my bearing but so I got a new one and a new fork, well it turned out to be the ball.
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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Moroso Blue max wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.
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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Moroso Blue max wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.
#11
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Thanks for all the information. It was helpful, albeit a bit overwhelming. I've got a few more questions now. And since I cannot seem to find a decent diagram in the service manual...
Does the TOB constantly turn or only when disengaging the clutch? If the latter, then it cannot be at fault for the squeak. The squeaking noise is constant and sounds like metal on metal at a very high speed. Imagine a hampster running on a steel hampster wheel at an extremely high RPM. If the TOB isn't spinning with the clutch engaged, then I tend to believe the other theory that it's the clutch fork and/or ball pivot. Like I said, when the car was on the lift, slight pressure was put on the fork (the part covered by the rubber boot) and the squeak stopped. This leads to the second question, regarding the advice of pulling off the rubber boot and greasing the ball and fork. All I have to do is pull that boot back and grease, or does the tranny still need to come out? I'm inclined to try this before taking the car down to the shop. If that's all it is, I'd rather fix it myself and save the headaches of arguing with the shop guys.
Thanks again for all the help, but if you could answer these last two questions I'd be grateful.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
Does the TOB constantly turn or only when disengaging the clutch? If the latter, then it cannot be at fault for the squeak. The squeaking noise is constant and sounds like metal on metal at a very high speed. Imagine a hampster running on a steel hampster wheel at an extremely high RPM. If the TOB isn't spinning with the clutch engaged, then I tend to believe the other theory that it's the clutch fork and/or ball pivot. Like I said, when the car was on the lift, slight pressure was put on the fork (the part covered by the rubber boot) and the squeak stopped. This leads to the second question, regarding the advice of pulling off the rubber boot and greasing the ball and fork. All I have to do is pull that boot back and grease, or does the tranny still need to come out? I'm inclined to try this before taking the car down to the shop. If that's all it is, I'd rather fix it myself and save the headaches of arguing with the shop guys.
Thanks again for all the help, but if you could answer these last two questions I'd be grateful.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
#12
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Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: W/C T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 BOLT 3.45 POSI
Get a can of grease that is in a can and can be sprayed on, pull the rubber boot back and spray inside carefully where the ball and fork meet try to get under the ball as best you can( between the ball and the fork) and then see if it stop's if it does not then try to spray the fork where the slave connect's the reason I say this is because if it does not stop in side then you know it is where the fork connects to the slave (mopst likley not). I wouls then take it back to the shop and they should have to fix it beacuse they did not grease. The tranny should come out so it can be done right.
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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Moroso Blue max wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.
------------------
86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Moroso Blue max wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.
#13
No, your TOB should not be turning with the clutch engaged. I've never tried to grease the pivot ball with the trans in place. It might be possible, but I don't think so. Nevertheless, if you try to that, I would also suggest disconnecting the slave unit from the fork, so that you can really "jiggle" the fork around while you're attempting the lube job. This 'jiggleing" might give you more insite into what is making the noise. Personally, from your description, it sounds like some type of installation error, relative to the TOB or fork attachment.
Keep us posted.
FJK
Keep us posted.
FJK
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Follow-up: So the unit was removed and the problem turned out to be two-fold. First off the TO bearing was loose (you could jiggle the collar up and down), second the fork was very worn. So both were replaced. The tranny shop owner was pretty cool about the whole thing. At the end of the day he asked me "So what do you think is fair?" (meaning for the price). Since the origin of the problem could not be proved (part of it was just an old part, the other part was possibly them), we came upon a mutual decision. I paid for parts (I will get my $$ back from Jegs hopefully for the bad TO bearing) and 2 hours labor, even though the car was there all day. Not a bad deal, I think.
One thing that the guys at the tranny shop seemed confused about was my clutch. None of them had ever seen a Centerforce Dual Friction before. But they did raise a good point. There is no freeplay in my clutch at all. The TO bearing is practically sitting on the clutch fingers with no space inbetween. They said that this was wrong. However, my mechanic has installed several Centerforce clutches into 3rd gens and I assume he knew what he was doing. Anyone else have a Dual Friction who can verify this one way or another? Is it supposed to be a tight fit like that? I assume so, for better grip, but I'm not sure.
Anyway, thanks to everyone for their input.
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
One thing that the guys at the tranny shop seemed confused about was my clutch. None of them had ever seen a Centerforce Dual Friction before. But they did raise a good point. There is no freeplay in my clutch at all. The TO bearing is practically sitting on the clutch fingers with no space inbetween. They said that this was wrong. However, my mechanic has installed several Centerforce clutches into 3rd gens and I assume he knew what he was doing. Anyone else have a Dual Friction who can verify this one way or another? Is it supposed to be a tight fit like that? I assume so, for better grip, but I'm not sure.
Anyway, thanks to everyone for their input.
------------------
Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
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The ball was fine. They took it out and showed me. The fork looked like hell, though. About 1/8" was eaten away on each end of the fork (probably from the old TO bearing, not the one I just replaced, but the one I replaced when the new clutch was put in -- why my mechanic didn't replace the fork I do not know).
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
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Maverick
1989 Formula 305 TPI 5-speed
Suspension mods, stock engine
#17
Maverick
Glad to hear you got the problem resolved. It sounds like you & the shop owner were able to intellengently to discuss it & reach agreement. That's always good. Yeah, it's puzzeling why they didn't catch that fork during the original installation. Although, I'm not familiar with your clutch, it sounds like it is a baigger "package" size than a stock clutch. In one of my earlier posts, I mentioned TOB that turn constantly, meaning no free travel. Maybe the best thing you could do is contact Centerforce's tech assistance. Maybe they have a web site. At least you'll have a better understanding of your set up.
Regards, FJK
Glad to hear you got the problem resolved. It sounds like you & the shop owner were able to intellengently to discuss it & reach agreement. That's always good. Yeah, it's puzzeling why they didn't catch that fork during the original installation. Although, I'm not familiar with your clutch, it sounds like it is a baigger "package" size than a stock clutch. In one of my earlier posts, I mentioned TOB that turn constantly, meaning no free travel. Maybe the best thing you could do is contact Centerforce's tech assistance. Maybe they have a web site. At least you'll have a better understanding of your set up.
Regards, FJK
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