What is this world class t-5 bull****? My t-5 has only 71,000 mostly highway miles on it. The syncros are shot! all my gears are somewhat rough. If you come to a stop you can hardly ever get it back into first. And rarely can I get it into reverse with out running through other gears first. I had my u-joints checked at least the guy was supposed to have checked them, but they were fine, I don't get it.

 

This is your first stick shift, isn't it?

Reverse is not synchronized, but all the forward gears are. So, if you're sitting there idling in neutral with the clutch engaged (trans spinning) and just push the clutch in (trans still spinning, coasting slowly down) and try to jam it in reverse, it will grind (one set of teeth stiing still, other set spinning). Every modern manual trans does this, "World Class" or not. All you have to do is put it in a forward gear first.

U-joints have nothing whatsoever to do with shifting. You can have U-joints so bad the drive shaft is ready to fall out of the car and the trans will shift smooth, or perfect brand-new ones and a trans that grinds every gear.

It is all but impossible for a trans to cause itself to be difficult to shift and/or to grind in all the gears. If that's haow your car is acting, you have a clutch problem: it's not disengaging all the way. Either the clutch is bad, or the pilot bushing, or the hydraulics (check the fluid).

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

No,no,no, What I am saying is that someone told me that my syncrose may be bad. And u-joints do effect the transmission, because if there bad then there would be play in driveshaft, which=gears not coming together correctly? correct? (this is what I was told)I don't know...My gears are not easy to shift, they don't grind, but they don't shift smooth. Sometimes when I stop I cannot get it in too any gear at all. The tranny is original clutch is brand new. Clutch has maybe 1000 miles on it.

 

U-joint's have nothing to do with your tran's in the shifting department.

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Moroso Blue max wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

Sounds to me like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Here is the definitive test. Car stopped, idling. push clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there. engage any forward gear fully (I don't care how hard it is to engage the gears, just do it.) keep the clutch all the way to the floor and bring the shifter back into neutral and leave it there for 5 seconds, no less. keep the pedal to the floor, and engage reverse gear. If after this the transmission grinds going into reverse gear then the clutch is not fully disengaging and this will cause hard shifting. VERY hard shifting, and it WILL wear out the synchros very fast. The Borg Warner world class T-5 is a very good transmission and it only gets it's bad rep from drag racers who agressively power-shift the tranny into oblivion and then blame the transmission. I know of cars running 11's with W.C. T-5s in them. And NO u-joints have NOTHING to do with how the transmission shifts.

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Karl Hunter
Hunter Motorsports
Vancouver, B.C. CANADA

 

Ok hunter, if i perform the test, clutch in, put it in all forward gears, the first one (any gear 1-5) is really tough, i need almost two hands to put it in gear, but then the rest of the gears are as smooth as a honda to get into, what could be wrong with it.
Thanks

And gunmetal, a little trick i discovered was if you put back into first right before to come to a complete stop, first goes in nice and smooth, otherwise it's another battle with the shifter. It takes a while but you get into the habit.

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Sat "IROCkid" Bimrah
1989 IROC-Z 5.0 L / 5 spd

 

when my tranny was going it was making a wierd noise whe ncoming to a stop and downshifting, like the bearings was whining real bad. The shifts never got hard though. My input shaft and output shaft both had to be replaced in the rebuild b/c the 1st gear sychronizer comes on the output shaft and was wore out big time on the end of it. The roller bearings had wore into the shaft so much that it had a nice wallowed out section in it.

Was it doing this before the clutch replacement? If not you need to look at your clutch and make sure it was installed properly which they only real way to do that is by removing the tranny! There is no adjusment for these clutch assemblies either. The pilot bearing and throwout bearing may not have been replaced to save money or to charge ou $$ for parts they didn't buy!

I rebuilt my tranny 3 years ago and since then have put 80-90k on it and have powershifted a lot from 1-2 and still have a good strong tranny. If you take it to the drag strip they will not last as long due to how sticky those tracks are.

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1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit, Holley projection intake,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.

1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip

2000 Kawasaki KX 125

 

Hey Gunmetal, I have driven stick shift cars all my life. Take it from me, sounds like you have a bad clutch problem. No matter how bad your u-joints, they are outside the gearbox assembly and have no effect whatsoever on the synchros. Whoever told you that crap doesn't know his @$$ from his elbow. Yeah sure bad u-joints will cause a lot of driveline jerk,vibration, and noise, but not bad shifting.

It's not uncommon for the clutch to go out really quickly. I've had this problem countless times. Call it bad luck. Before you start tearing out the clutch check the hydraulics. Is there enough clutch fluid in the reservoir? Are there any leaks that have let air into the system? Does it have to be bled?

If these things check out fine, then worry about the clutch assembly itself. You could possibly have a bad pressure plate. It probably isn't releasing the clutch disc enough to let you shift properly.

Whatever the case, the problem seems like the clutch is not disengaging fully. All the previous replies to this post pretty much have all the causes nailed.

And one last thing - you do have the right quantity and type of lube in the tranny right? I used to have a Toyota Landcruiser that used a lighter weight of gear oil than other vehicles. Some dumbass mechanic, who I asked only to check the level of the oil, decided to change because it was too thin. A month later I had a completely shot tranny on my hands. All synchros worn out so bad that I had to double declutch for every gearchange. Yup I mastered that heel and toe crap then

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'88 IROC 305 TPI
Gutted airboxes
160 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler

 

Man you just got a f*cked tranny. Mine has 100,000 miles on it and works like a charm.

 

Well the clutch is brand new. The transmission did the same thing with the old clutch so maybe I need to look at the hydraulics part. The fluid is fine. The pressure plate was also replaced. As far as lube goes, it take ATF. cant screw up there.

-oh monkie, Do you beat on yours at all? I like to bark em in 2nd alot which isnt good for it, but I bought the car with the bad tranny. I'll just have to save up for a T-56