I bought a Moroso roller pilot bearing and today I tried to install it into the crank. First, the directions said it had to be pressed in using an arbor press. yeah, that's great if you have the crankshaft on a bench.

Well, it would not fit. It is designed as a very tight tolerance fit and I tried tapping it in with a brass drift like a wheel bearing but it messed it up so I had to use my die grinder and cut it out.

Has anyone converted from auto to manual and used a roller bearing? Which manufacturer fits? Or am I going to have to use the bronze bushing instead?




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FORMULA 350 TK
Southern California 3rd Generation F-Body OrganizationŠ

 

I think you can just get a T56 pilot bearing it fit in mine

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91 Z28 5.7l Camaro
T-56, Cross Drilled Brakes, KYB's,AFPR, 3.73 Gears, Borla Adjustable Cat Back, Hypertech Chip, Hooker Headers.
more to come....
My 91 Z28

 

When I went from auto to stick the normal dorman pilot bushing got chewed up so I put in a roller bearing that I got from gm, when I swapped motors I got a new roller bearing from carquest. I just asked for one So I don't know what kind of car it was for, I seem to think it came from a heavy duty truck.

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

I got mine from GM made for a T-56. I haven't fit it in yet cause its been to cold around here lately to get any work done.

 

I have used many of both the GM and the Moroso bearings, as far as I can tell they both came from Acme Pilot Bearing Co. or one of their affiliates. They appeared identical in every respect. Both of them are indeed a tight fit. However, I have never had access to an arbor press, I just use a brass drift and lots of patience. They are definitely tougher to put in than a bushing but by no means impossible.

Get another one and try not to get in too much of a hurry, it will go in OK. Cranks are all also the same whether they came in an auto car or a stick car so changing over is not an issue.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

I too did the same thing but I got it about 3/4 of the way in and it got screwed. I had to chisel it out. That totally sucked. To put the new one in I used a dremel sanding drum and took a little material out to get the new on in.

James

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If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy
88 GTA Notchback with 91 gfx and ROH Snypers
Aftermarket T-56 (pain in the A$S but worth it)
Lots of things to do still

 

Tom

I used the Moroso unit, which should be the same one you used, as I think there is only one version for both small and big block Chevys. It was 'tapped' in with a socket and rubber hammer while still in the engine and the car. It was quite a while ago, but i don't remember having much difficulty. I haven't had any problems with it that I am aware of.

 

Thanks everyone for replying.

After talking it over with a buddy at work, I decided to go with the bronze bushing.

I could put a roller bearing in and like you said, take my time and not be in a hurry and I also could freeze it and I know I could get it in OK the 2nd time around.

However, after discussing it with my co-worker I decided on the bronze bushing.

Reason being is that he said high winding engines, for long periods, are better off with a bushing. Drag racing engines, which get torn down after every few runs are good to go with the roller bearing. His theory, based on his experience as a crew chief on circle track cars is that a bushing can only "wear". But a roller bearing, can "come apart" and if that happens, the loose free play can cause serious damage. But with a bushing, the worse that will happen is some excess wear. I thought about that, and it convinced me to go with the bushing instead of the roller bearing.