Moser or Strange 9"
Moser or Strange 9"
Has anyone ordered any of those custom built 9" rear ends for third gen's ? I'm thinking of getting one and wondered if they truely are a direct bolt on , or is there any mod's that need to be done. Also , is it better to have them install the internals (or should I say cheaper ) or should I have them installed myself?
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 3
From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
I have the Moser kit and I like it. But now I guess they (and Currie as well) offer a complete rear with center section ready to bolt in. You might have to change the U joint but that's it.
Years ago when Moser sold the housings only, I had to machine and drill out the caliper bracket plates, but it's easy and that's all I had to do, plus change out the U joint.
IMO, it's cheaper to piece it all together. Mine cost me around 1700 to build. What are these companies asking now, like over 2 grand for a complete rear? I even bought the complete center section with gears and Auburn already set up (from DTS) and I still was within my budget...that was back in 1996 but you can always find used center sections in good shape for cheap if you're really on a budget.
As for Strange, I don't have any experience with them but from what I hear they do make good stuff.
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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
Years ago when Moser sold the housings only, I had to machine and drill out the caliper bracket plates, but it's easy and that's all I had to do, plus change out the U joint.
IMO, it's cheaper to piece it all together. Mine cost me around 1700 to build. What are these companies asking now, like over 2 grand for a complete rear? I even bought the complete center section with gears and Auburn already set up (from DTS) and I still was within my budget...that was back in 1996 but you can always find used center sections in good shape for cheap if you're really on a budget.
As for Strange, I don't have any experience with them but from what I hear they do make good stuff.
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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 3
From: Rock Hill, SC
Car: 1999 Pontiac T/A Firehawk
Engine: ***'s Engine
Transmission: T56
I have a moser rear, and I love it. However, don't be confused that it will be easy.
Moser sells their rears as bolt-ins. Well, if you don't want a rear sway bar, or rear brakes, then it is a bolt in.
The rear sway bar is the easy part, though I haven't done it. It involves using Ford 9" leaf spring mounts which are you have to weld on to the axle. There may also be some clearancing required to clear the rear cover (those 9" rears are big ******).
Torque arm, you have to grind the "fins" on the front case to get the bolts through. Easy enough, doesn't take long. You'll know what I mean when you see one.
Brakes... now THESE are fun. I bolted 89-92 brakes to my 9" rear. You've got to do the following:
1) overbore the center of the backing plates to fit over the 9" axle bearing.
2) redrill the GM disc brake bolt pattern to match the drum brake pattern on the rear. The only acceptable way I found to do this and still maintain acceptable strength was to SWAP the left and right sides. Remember, the bleeder screw on the caliper MUST be the highest point or it won't work.
3) Grind the hole on the passenger spring mount bigger so that the rubber brake hose will anchor in place with the metal clip.
4) Weld an anchor plate on to the side of the left spring mount to anchor the rubber brake hose to.
5) Weld an anchor plate near the center of the axle, on the axle tube, to bolt the rubber body-to-rear-line to.
6) Bend custom rear brake lines for the whole rear.
Number 5 and 6 can be accomplished with a length of "L" angle brace from Home Depot/Lowe's. I think I used 1 1/2".
If you need any more help/info, drop me a line and I'll do what I can.
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"Beware he who would deny you access to information, for in his heart, he dreams himself your master"
'84 Black Camaro ZZ4 M5 (V-6 in a former life) -- street beast
'91 Medium Blue Metallic Z28 A4 (UB-HSTRY's old ride) -- currently broken
'99 Navy Blue Metallic Firehawk #120 M6 (99.44% stock) -- daily driver
Moser sells their rears as bolt-ins. Well, if you don't want a rear sway bar, or rear brakes, then it is a bolt in.
The rear sway bar is the easy part, though I haven't done it. It involves using Ford 9" leaf spring mounts which are you have to weld on to the axle. There may also be some clearancing required to clear the rear cover (those 9" rears are big ******).
Torque arm, you have to grind the "fins" on the front case to get the bolts through. Easy enough, doesn't take long. You'll know what I mean when you see one.
Brakes... now THESE are fun. I bolted 89-92 brakes to my 9" rear. You've got to do the following:
1) overbore the center of the backing plates to fit over the 9" axle bearing.
2) redrill the GM disc brake bolt pattern to match the drum brake pattern on the rear. The only acceptable way I found to do this and still maintain acceptable strength was to SWAP the left and right sides. Remember, the bleeder screw on the caliper MUST be the highest point or it won't work.
3) Grind the hole on the passenger spring mount bigger so that the rubber brake hose will anchor in place with the metal clip.
4) Weld an anchor plate on to the side of the left spring mount to anchor the rubber brake hose to.
5) Weld an anchor plate near the center of the axle, on the axle tube, to bolt the rubber body-to-rear-line to.
6) Bend custom rear brake lines for the whole rear.
Number 5 and 6 can be accomplished with a length of "L" angle brace from Home Depot/Lowe's. I think I used 1 1/2".
If you need any more help/info, drop me a line and I'll do what I can.
------------------
"Beware he who would deny you access to information, for in his heart, he dreams himself your master"
'84 Black Camaro ZZ4 M5 (V-6 in a former life) -- street beast
'91 Medium Blue Metallic Z28 A4 (UB-HSTRY's old ride) -- currently broken
'99 Navy Blue Metallic Firehawk #120 M6 (99.44% stock) -- daily driver
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 3
From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
I guess I should mention I originally had a BW 9 bolt, so the stock disc brakes (1LE brakes) swapped on easily. That's strange, I didn't have to do any custom work to my brakes or lines other than machining the counterbore and redrilling the backing plates for the housing flanges. What brakes are on your car now? Oh well, just be aware that it's not a total "bolt in", but it's not that difficult to do the swap either.
------------------
1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
------------------
1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
AS I dont have access to most of the equip. needed to make these mods , maybe I would be better off ordering the rear end with everything on it including the disc brakes.Not sure yet , maybe some more research. Thank you guys for replying , it is very valuble info.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 3
From: Rock Hill, SC
Car: 1999 Pontiac T/A Firehawk
Engine: ***'s Engine
Transmission: T56
IROCZZ3:
Rears are stock '92 disc brakes. I am pretty sure the BW 9-bolt uses a different bolt pattern than the disc brake 10-bolt because I've heard it several times.
Rears are stock '92 disc brakes. I am pretty sure the BW 9-bolt uses a different bolt pattern than the disc brake 10-bolt because I've heard it several times.
I recently bought a Moser 12-Bolt setup complete with Brakes. It has not arrived yet but if you want to send me an email I will be happy to provide you with some feedback on the install. It is supposed to be a direct bolt in Rear end for my 89 Iroc.
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Hawk, I'm with ya' on the Moser thing. I went through all of the same problems. I was able to weld up the old holes in the backing plates and redrill to keep the calipers in their stock locations. That was years ago but now I guess they come with different ends.
The moral is don't expect a remove and replace type of deal with most any of the conversions.
[This message has been edited by Zee (edited February 02, 2001).]
The moral is don't expect a remove and replace type of deal with most any of the conversions.
[This message has been edited by Zee (edited February 02, 2001).]
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