First off I need a line lock installed. I searched the archives and its not talked about too much and there seemed to be some bad kits. With whats on the market today, can anyone recommend a trouble free install kit? I really dont want to replace my brake lines.

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Mark Lock
- 86 IROC-Z - SuperRammed 383/T56
- -= IROC Online =- - The site dedicated to the IROC-Z

 

I think the 3 major ones are Hurst, TCI, and Biondo. I have had good results with my Hurst. I believe others have had good results with the other 2.

You really wont be hacking up the brake lines, but you will be ADDING 2 lines. You will be removing the line that goes from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. Now, a new line goes from the master cylinder to your line lock solenoid. The second line goes from your new solenoid to the proportioning valve.

Jegs and Summit sell these, and they also sell a brake kit for about $40. This includes brake lines and fittings. Some people will tell you it's not worth it to get the kit, but I think it is. You see, I ended up cutting the lines and reflaring them for shorter lines and a cleaner look. My Hurst didnt come with any brake lines, so I had to get them from somewhere anyways. Those couple of extra lines helped when I kept screwing up.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L

 

That's a bad place in install a line lock and it won't pass a tech inspection. The line lock must only hold the steering brakes. If it's installed between the master cylinder and proportioning valve then it will hold all the brakes. You could just do that with the foot brake.

There are 2 lines coming out of the proportioning valve for both the front brakes. A third line is for the rear brake but you don't need to touch it. You remove both those lines and plug one of the holes. The 2 lines you removed that go to the calipers are then put on the output of the line lock. A new line is run from the remaining open port on the proportioning valve to the input of the line lock.

No lines have been cut unless you can't mount the line lock near enough to the proportioning valve. You may have to bend the factory lines a bit to get them to fit. A new line and a plug is added. A bit of wiring and a switch and you're all set.

Now when you step on the brake and activate the line lock with a switch, the solinoid will hold the pressure in the front brakes. Release the brake pedal, do your burnout then release the front brakes.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
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87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

[This message has been edited by Stephen 87 IROC (edited February 12, 2001).]

 

That is incorrect. There are 2 lines going to the proportioning valve. If you simply tap the correct line between the MC and valve, which is the line closest to the firewall, you only lock line pressure to the front brakes. Chevy High Performance even did an article on this, and they also did it this way.

Your method will work, and is described that way even in the Hurst instructions. But the only reason they tell you that is that if you do it the easier and smarter way (and CHP's way), the Parking Brake light comes on due to loss of pressure to the rear brakes. This can act as your line lock activation light. But to alot of people, that little light causes confusion.

I am not 100% familiar with all of the tech rules, but if the reason it will fail tech is because it is not locking JUST the steering wheels, then that is again incorrect.

This has been covered before in this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000528.html

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L

[This message has been edited by Omar (edited February 13, 2001).]

 

I wired mine in that way and had no probs. An added bonus is your "BRAKE" warning light comes on when you line loc. Then goes out when you reapply the brakes.

 

Omar
I agree with stephen. I had my LL plumbed in like yours and I was holding all the brakes, not just the front. By the way I was using the hurst model. Now my next thing is I need to do is get another one. I traded the hurst for twin elec fans off a 92 GTA.
Later
John

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82 Firebird,355,Cam 224/234, .466/.488,TH350 Tranny,650 HolleyDP,Hooker Headers(I.E. POS) Manual steering
Best 8th et 8.62@80mph.
NEW for 01
A 408,dart iron eagle heads,street dominator intake, 750 SD,cam 229/239, .497/.520, Also a big hole in the hood.
Shooting for 12's.

[This message has been edited by spud (edited February 14, 2001).]

 

Spud, I should have mentioned that this doesnt apply to all cars, esp earlier cars such as yours. Depending on year and make, each car will have a different way to tap into the front braking system.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L

 

You can mount it anywhere in the system that you want however:

NHRA rulebook, General Regulations, Section 3:1

"If brake system includes a differential pressure switch, line-loc installed on front brakes must have solinoid installed after the differential switch"

So if you want to mount the solinoid before the proportioning valve to keep the brake warning light from coming one, you will not pass a tech inspection at an NHRA track!

 

Thanks for the inspection tip.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L