I've got a 1983 z-28 with a standard 2.93 rear end.
I bought a 3.42 posi disc brake rear end not realizing the mounting ends were so different. I do not want to go with the disc set up as the cost associated $$$. At first I thought I could cut and fabricate the mounting ends to fit my drum brake but that looks kinda hard.

Has anyone did this. I read one post that stated you can not go from disc to drum on the mounts.

Any Idea's........
I could try to sell or swap the rear end for a similar rear end with the right drum ends or I was thinking about maybe swapping the gears sets out?
Both are 10 bolts rears....

Any advice is appreciated.

 

Just swap the complete rear end. No extra cost involved and your done in an afternoon.

It's a direct swap.

 

That is what I was going to do until I realized the disc mounting plates are different that the drum brake ends....not even close. The rear end I have is the disc brake mounting ends.
I don't want to spend the cash on the disc set up....
I thought I could mod the mounting ends to work but some quick measurements don't add up.

 

He has a housing for disk brakes and doesn't have the rotors or calipers/mounts

 

83,

You might consider checking the cost of calipers and rotors for your application. You'll find that they are relatively inexpensive. Most would prefer rear discs.

JamesC

 

Thx James......
That is one option, Do you need to change the proportioning valve, and e-brake lines?
Can you use the stock 83 stuff?
I'm also going to try to sell it and or trade for the right rear end.
I had it media blasted and apoxy primed and painted so it looks good.
Too bad I can't make it work.

It's winter up here so I've got a few months to get this and my Vortec head swap done.
Thx

 

Yes. The 82-83 cars are SAE instead of metric as are the later cars, so you'll need to make sure of fit.

JamesC

 

I swapped my '83 2.93 with a later model 3.42 and here's how I did it:

My new axle didn't come with any lines run and it didn't have the t-block thing that bolts to the pumpkin. If memory serves, that block requires SAE bubble flares. Fortunately, my local NAPA had lines with those fittings and I bought a pair. I didn't use the nuts that were one the new lines because they were longer than the old nuts so I cut one end off the new lines and put the old nuts on. Because the calipers on the new axle required metric double flare fittings, I put metric nuts on for the end I had cut and re-flared as a double flare.

If you have the axle I think you do, you're in luck cuz the left and right calipers are the same part number. Mine are, and the best part is that replacement calipers were really cheap, if you just get the generic whatever your favorite jobber has on hand.

IF your axle already has lines run from the center t-block that bolts to the pumpkin, you may need to cut your old rear main brake line and reflare as a double flair so it will fit with the newer t-block. Not for sure on this so you may want to double-check with somebody else first.

Some say you should DEFINITELY get the disc brake prop valve and master cylinder. I didn't. I don't race the car but I have driven it aggressively and I don't feel like I lack control when braking. Personally, I think you should double-check the rear brakes while it's on stands and if they work, take it for a test drive to get used to the new brakes and if you like the feel, leave it alone. If you're racing the car, it would probably make more sense to have the proper prop valve.

Here's pictures of the difference between bubble flares and double flares from Pelican Parts:
.


ALL that said...I have a WC T-5, don't remember the 1st gear ratio but when I put this axle on...my passenger thought I had flipped cuz I couldn't stop laughing. If you're used to the 2.93 open and you go to a 3.43 posi, you will be VERY glad you did. Or at least, I was. Just my two cents.

Hope this helps!!