T-5 rebuild
T-5 rebuild
Hi guys, I've been a member for awhile now, but first time poster.
I have decided to rebuild my T-5 rather than pay mucho $ for someone else to do pretty much the same thing, and I was wondering if anyone had any words of wisdom, cautions, or just general advise? I got the rebuild kit from Hanlon Motorsports and 1-2 slider (due to present problems and advise from Bob at Hanlon) and the video which I've heard is excellent.
My plan so far is to put the front on ramps and the rear on jack stands, pull the drive shaft and torque arm out, then proceed with trans removal, teardown and inspection, then do the rebuild, and then put everything back together. I'm taking a whole week off from work and school so I can do this without rushing.
Any comments or assistance or advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Paul
'83 T/A hardtop, 305H/T-5
I have decided to rebuild my T-5 rather than pay mucho $ for someone else to do pretty much the same thing, and I was wondering if anyone had any words of wisdom, cautions, or just general advise? I got the rebuild kit from Hanlon Motorsports and 1-2 slider (due to present problems and advise from Bob at Hanlon) and the video which I've heard is excellent.
My plan so far is to put the front on ramps and the rear on jack stands, pull the drive shaft and torque arm out, then proceed with trans removal, teardown and inspection, then do the rebuild, and then put everything back together. I'm taking a whole week off from work and school so I can do this without rushing.
Any comments or assistance or advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Paul
'83 T/A hardtop, 305H/T-5
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,544
Likes: 19
From: WI,USA
Car: 89 FORMULA 350, 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: ls1, LB9
Transmission: t56, Auto
Axle/Gears: S60/ 3.73
Have you ever pulled the trans before? or do any mechanical work your self? this is not ment to be offensive but, alot of people here are first timmers and that is why they come here.
I would take all the interror related stuff out first( shifter plate, boot ect
then drain the fluid. that way you keep the inside cleaner but, leave the shifter itself in untill you get the drive shaft off. that way you can shift it in to gear to help hold the saft from moving while you undo the bolts then take out the shifter out before things really get dirty. the rest is pretty strait forward... diconnect the wires speedo so on...
I would take all the interror related stuff out first( shifter plate, boot ect
then drain the fluid. that way you keep the inside cleaner but, leave the shifter itself in untill you get the drive shaft off. that way you can shift it in to gear to help hold the saft from moving while you undo the bolts then take out the shifter out before things really get dirty. the rest is pretty strait forward... diconnect the wires speedo so on... No, never actually pulled a trans myself, helped others (no investment there!) and everything else done to the car so far I have done myself (being poor necessitates learning how to do stuff!)
My main concern was the torque arm, and best way to get the trans out (with minimal loss of limbs!) and any techniques people may have come up with. For instance, the hint about not trying to get the t/arm mount out, just open it at the top and shove it out of the way is the type of thing I was hoping for. I've never rebuilt a trans before either, but I guess I'll learn! I'm getting the video from Hanlon and I got a step-by-step procedure from one of the Mustang sites, which lays everything out pretty well. Just doing it is kinda scary since this is my primary mode of transportation, I don't want to screw it up!!
Sorry this is so long
Paul
My main concern was the torque arm, and best way to get the trans out (with minimal loss of limbs!) and any techniques people may have come up with. For instance, the hint about not trying to get the t/arm mount out, just open it at the top and shove it out of the way is the type of thing I was hoping for. I've never rebuilt a trans before either, but I guess I'll learn! I'm getting the video from Hanlon and I got a step-by-step procedure from one of the Mustang sites, which lays everything out pretty well. Just doing it is kinda scary since this is my primary mode of transportation, I don't want to screw it up!!
Sorry this is so long
Paul
just take your time man.. Hopefully you at least you have a mechanic that is willing to give you a hand if you get in too deep, or have doubts. The last thing you want to do is a "good enough" job. It won't last, and you will regret it. "good enough" usually causes more problems upon failure than the initial problem was. None of this is meant as a put down in anyway. Just advice. At least let someone that really knows his/her stuff know what your doing, and see if they would be willing to give you some guidance if needed. Most good technicians are willing to do that, as long as you ask in the right way. If you ask in a way that makes it seem as though you're trying to take away from their potential income, you'll get a fat NO, if not, and you make it clear that you're just a hot-rodder at heart, w/ some mechanical inclination.. can't afford to pay for someone else to do it, and want the experience and pride of a "I did it myself".. you shouldn't find anyone that would say HELL NO to that.
Anthony
P.S Check all the bearings and races VERY CLOSELY, in all likelyhood, if they are scored or worn excessivly, you won't have the tools to remove them. You don't want to have fresh gears, synchros and shafts, but worn bearings and races.. it'll all go to **** quickly like that.. Best of luck.
Anthony
P.S Check all the bearings and races VERY CLOSELY, in all likelyhood, if they are scored or worn excessivly, you won't have the tools to remove them. You don't want to have fresh gears, synchros and shafts, but worn bearings and races.. it'll all go to **** quickly like that.. Best of luck.
Hey thanks Ragin! Appreciate the vote of support! I forgot to mention exactly what you said too, I have a couple of buddies from work on standby that I can call "just in case"!! They are familiar enough with these types of jobs that they would be able to at least talk me thru any trouble!
Puttin' her up this weekend, and starting in!
I'll keep you guys posted if you wish!
Paul
Puttin' her up this weekend, and starting in!
I'll keep you guys posted if you wish!
Paul
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I went thru Hanlon Motorsports (www.hanlonmotorsports.com) and although they specialize in Mustang T-5's, from the input shaft back, there's not much difference. They offered a video also which steps you thru the rebuild too! Linda was very nice to talk to on the phone, and Bob has been doing this for many years, so there is some help available too!
The rebuild kit I bought was $138+ for 103 pieces, and I'm getting it tomorrow! They also offer a "refresh" kit which has fewer pieces and costs less too.
Good luck.
Paul
The rebuild kit I bought was $138+ for 103 pieces, and I'm getting it tomorrow! They also offer a "refresh" kit which has fewer pieces and costs less too.
Good luck.
Paul
Be sure to pull the shifter out...it makes it easier to pull the tranny!
Replace the clutch, and make sure you surface the flywheel...thgis is a must! I would go ahead and replace the master cylinder and the slave cyllinder, if you have the extra 100 bucks...get them from o'reily's...they stock wagner part...
i just did this and have it down to about a 2 hr job
email me with any questions!
------------------
1992 Texas DPS B4C 1LE FE2 5.8/5spd:
Intake and Plenum Ported
Fully Ported Corvette Heads
TPIS Tricks ,No Smog Pump, NOS FI Fuel Pump
K&N's Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator
Alston SFC's, Energy Supension Hyperflex system
MSD 6AL, SLP 1 3/4" SS Headers, no cats
3.73's with 295/50/16's out back...blew those now 2.73 one legger
My complete back seat
encompases my RF tunes...
Currie 9" on the way with 3.70 gears
Adam
Replace the clutch, and make sure you surface the flywheel...thgis is a must! I would go ahead and replace the master cylinder and the slave cyllinder, if you have the extra 100 bucks...get them from o'reily's...they stock wagner part...
i just did this and have it down to about a 2 hr job
email me with any questions!
------------------
1992 Texas DPS B4C 1LE FE2 5.8/5spd:
Intake and Plenum Ported
Fully Ported Corvette Heads
TPIS Tricks ,No Smog Pump, NOS FI Fuel Pump
K&N's Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator
Alston SFC's, Energy Supension Hyperflex system
MSD 6AL, SLP 1 3/4" SS Headers, no cats
3.73's with 295/50/16's out back...blew those now 2.73 one legger
My complete back seat
encompases my RF tunes...
Currie 9" on the way with 3.70 gears
Adam
I'm prolly not going to do the clutch/ flywheel thing, it was replaced shortly before I got the car, still has plenty of meat on the clutch. Unfortunately, I don't even have a hyd. clutch either, I have the old mechanical (Z-bar and rods) linkage instead. How much do you think it would be to change the system over? It would prob. be better to do that while I have the car OOC!!
All good ideas, thanks for the suggestions! My big sweat right now is all the neg comments about how hard the torque arm is to get disconnected. I did however order new poly bushings for all that stuff down there (PST!) and I'll replace them too as I go along.
Paul
All good ideas, thanks for the suggestions! My big sweat right now is all the neg comments about how hard the torque arm is to get disconnected. I did however order new poly bushings for all that stuff down there (PST!) and I'll replace them too as I go along.
Paul
Oh, I forgot too...I got my rebuild kit last night! Very complete set, and very nice machining on the parts. I previewed the first part of the video also, and although Bob Hanlon is no great host, the camera is right in there over his shoulder watching the rebuild with excellent clarity! His talk through is also very complete, he gives suggestions and lets you know about how some things might be more difficult or whatever along the way!! Highly recommended!
Well guys, here's an update:
Got most of the rebuild done, however had to order a 1-2 shifter fork because one of the tangs were broken (that explains why it was so hard to get into gear!) and the OD slider keys were a different type.
The video and parts kit are very good, and I have had nothing but pleasant experiences dealing with Bob and Linda Hanlon!
Hanlon Motorsports in PA are very highly recommended!!!!
Will post more as I get more done!
Paul
Got most of the rebuild done, however had to order a 1-2 shifter fork because one of the tangs were broken (that explains why it was so hard to get into gear!) and the OD slider keys were a different type.

The video and parts kit are very good, and I have had nothing but pleasant experiences dealing with Bob and Linda Hanlon!
Hanlon Motorsports in PA are very highly recommended!!!!
Will post more as I get more done!
Paul
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