junkyarddog

I'd like to totally beat the bag out of my transmission,will a higher stall converter,like a 1800-2000,benifitacceleration in all gears,or just of the line? will it kill gas milage?

Biochem

AHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA Try 3000 or so... It works very well for me! Seriously, I think stock is about 1600, and no, a higher stall is not a bad thing. Get a tranny cooler when you get one. Yank and PI are the two best brands IMO.



------------------
1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

junkyarddog

this guy i work with told me that stock transmissions come with <1000 stall,he said if it moves forward in gear with my foot off the gas,then it is very low like under 1000.I don't know if he's right or wrong.

does it take more gas to get the car moving with a 3000rpm stall? will it hinder daily driving by being a nuisance and wasting all my gas? will it be effective throughout the whole RPM range?

bjankuski

If you get a torque convertor with lock up you can have the best of both worlds. You will have better acceleration and retain the same mileage of stock convertor. Go with a 2500 RPM stall

------------------
1988 Formula 5L/5sp 3.45 gears, SLP cold air kit, MAS gutted, TPIS air foil, TPIS AFPR, MAC headers, Mac under drive pulleys, MAC cat back, Relocated MAT.
Best ET street tires 13.85
Best 60 FT street tires 1.930
Best MPH street tires 99.29

[This message has been edited by bjankuski (edited July 01, 2001).]

giovanhalen

The gas mileage wont be that much different if you are driving in such a manner as to save gas. If you accelerate hard and vary speed alot then it will use more gas. To get a idea as to stall speed, Hold down on the brakes and floor the aceelerator at the same time, what rpm is your tach showing? It will vary depending upon the torque of your engine. Yes it can make a big difference in acceleration.

RARE-ROC-Z

dont go more than a 2500, the ideal for a similarly stock car would be 2200-2400 and vigilante is the best, but they are expensive, i know i dont plan a vigilante yet, and does anyone have a site for Yank converters? thanks



------------------
Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey Interior


DAILY DRIVER: 1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE.

IROCZZ3

I agree with Biochem...even 3500 isn't that high as long as you have a high quality lock up converter. Check out the LS1 board sometime...their quickest members run at LEAST a Yank Superthruster 3500 stall but are very streetable and part throttle and gas mileage hasn't changed much, but they cut 1.5-1.6 60 foots on ET streets!

Here's the website for Yank: www.converter.cc

------------------
1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'

transfixleo

3500? Don't let anyone kid you, that is way high and not practical for the street. To use that you have to have a wild cam since it means that you are NOT making power UNTIL 3500 RPM and than it better be there until 7000+, which is WAY past what a stock TPI does.

A stock IROC has @1400 RPM stall. To select the proper stall you need to determine when your engine STARTS to make power. If lets say it is 1900-2000 RPM and pulls to, oh 5000 or so, you would be wasting engine power by putting in a 2500 stall converter. About a 2000 stall would be perfect and wouldn't hurt mileage too much as long as you drove easy.

Raymond 5.7 89 Formula

How do you determine when your engine starts to make power? Is the camshaft the most critical point or can other mods make a difference? Would you say a stock L98 starts around 1500rpm? I was thinking about a 2000 to 2200 stall for my car.

------------------
SLP 1 5/8 Headers,ATR catback exhaust,SLP cold air box,Crane 1:6 roller rockers,Bosch plugs and MSD wires,MSD Coil,Fastchip,Borg Warner 9 bolt 3:27,Corvette Servo,ROH ZS 17X9.5 Goodyear GSC,s 275/40/17

transfixleo

It can be a little tricky with an auto car (a standard is easy, you drive it in a higher gear and bring it to a low speed. Then you gradually accelarate until it all of a sudden "pulls"). You have to drive the car easy and see when it feels like it is starting to pull easy. Try coasting down in a higher gear and then reaccelarate EASY, trying not to downshift if possible but looking for when it starts to come alive.

Biochem

Your best bet is to actually talk to PI or Yank about things like: cam shaft you have, weight of your car, induction setup, and a few dozen other parameters that will influence exactly what stall they (the experts) think you should go with.

They can also tell you about the different factors that go on at the stall speed and the various ratios that affect acceleration. They will also tell you that the stall speed is greatly impacted by your engine's torque (more TQ= higher stall). Using your brakes is a very inaccurate way to test stall speed. What is your brakes are wearing out... what if you have 13" Baer rotors... is that going to show you the same stall if you hold the brakes to test what RPM the car starts to roll?

I went with a 2800 stall on my 305... I need a lot more then what it is on my 350. I will go with Yank, but PI is a very close second IMO.

------------------
1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

Optimal stall is 500-700 rpm below peak torque. If you have a stock motor, get a 2800 rpm stall and you will be happy.

I've run a 2200 stall and my friend has a 2000 stall, don't waste your time or your money. They blew.

Get a 'decent' stall lock-up convertor, and live happily everafter.

bbtaz97

iTrader: (3)

i got a 2400-2500 rpm stall from SLP for around 329 or so and i love it. i installed it when i installed my new trans. they dont really affect gas millage that i have noticed( daily driver) and it will help liven up the trans . i agree with the whole trans cooler idea. it will help you greatly. one other thing to point out is that it will cause you car to run a bit hotter as well so i would suggest a lower thermo and a jet fan switch.

------------------
91 camaro RS
- 305 TBI
Mods: Performer TBI intake, 1" TBI spacer, K+N, jet fan switch ,160 thermo,Accel control module, Jet Stage 2 chip, edelbrock TES headers, Compleate 3" Flowmaster exhaust, Edelbrock springs, KYB struts and shocks, 700R4 built by TSI, SLP tq converter, b+m trans cooler, white guage faces, megashifter..
next month: spohn LCA's and panhard rod, BMR relocation brackets, 323 gear, lt1 cam , 350 heads

junkyarddog

thanks for the help guys, I'm doing this with an '84 trans am,305 HO,700r4,3.73 auburn posi, the trans has been through some rough times (I got the car when I was 17) but it seems to work ok. it will slip a little if I'm really gettin' on it,but other wise it's ok. I'm going to do a filter change (long over due) add a cooler,a trans-go shift kit for extra firm shifts,and a torque converter to help get things moving,the engine is bone stock. it's very possible I may have a six speed soon,but I'd like to start beefing up the auto incase that doesn't happen.
the specs on the L69 V8 are as follows: 190hp@4800rpms , 240lbs of TQ @ 3200rpms...so would 2800 stall be ok?
I found the specs for the cam in "tech data" for an '85 L69,which probably isn't much different form an '84,the cam is: .403/.415 lift,202/206 dur.,114.5 sep., 115/114rocker arm ratio... seems like a pretty dull cam,how should this affect the acceleration with a torque converter?


[This message has been edited by junkyarddog (edited July 07, 2001).]

transfixleo

I stand by my previous posts on this. With 3.73's you should be able to accelerate pretty good now and with a stock engine IMHO 2800 is WAY too much. I ask again, when does it just start to pull, in RPM? I am sure that it starts to flatten out by @5000 right? So you want to cut it down in usable RPM band? About a 2000 stall converter would probably feel great on this, maybe even less.

Raymond 5.7 89 Formula

I agree with previous post. You might feel like you are shot out like a rocket with a 3000 or so stall speed but you are wasting usuable rpm. L98s stock or mild mods start to die around 5000 rpm. If we are talking about a LS1 it would be different which pulls to 6000 or higher. One of Lingenfelter rules is to try to keep the car in its powerband as much as possible.

transfixleo

"One of Lingenfelter rules is to try to keep the car in its powerband as much as possible."

I couldn't have said it better myself. I think I will 'appropriate' that one!