I wanted to move my shift points back to about 6000 rpm because my car still pulls really hard past that. I bought the B&M kit and put in the two lightest weights hoping that it would help but now at WOT in 1st gear the car shift at like 4300-4500 (vs 5200 stock weights) and in 2nd it wont even shift to 3rd (I took it to about 6200 where I have the rev limiter set at). I clearly need to change more stuff out and get the right combination, but I seem strange that 1st would get moved earlier and 2nd way later. How do I make 1st gear shift later and 2nd shift earlier now?

 

ttt

I'd like to know also, but I'm trying to raise my shift points to 6500 from 1-2 and 2-3.

 

I never bought the kit, I just start drilling the weights. The try-and-see approach. Used 3800-rpm governors are so cheap and common at the local salvage yards, get you a few. There are inner weights and outer weights. Try drilling the inners of one, the outers of another, and both of a third, and you can always redo it with progressively larger drill bits. Be sure to drill your first holes well off-center to leave room for more holes later if you want them. Also, it's pretty hard to get these to do automatic upshifts much above 6500 rpm, at that point plan on a modified valve body.

 

The stock LT1 governor shifts at 5,600. The 2.8 S10 Blazer governors shift at 5,300-5,500 as well. I am pretty sure the V6 F-body cars shift way up the rev band as well.

Above 5,800 rpm you better pull the transmission apart and put in stronger return springs for the clutches and upgrade the pump slide spring. Otherwise the clutches just will not last long.

 

Did the stock 700r-4 behind the first gen sbc shift the same as the LT1 at 5,600?

 

No, the 3rd gen V8 cars shifted at like 5,200 or so. I used the B&M kit to get my Blazer to shift at 5,800 RPM. I had to change weights three times, adn springs once to get the right shift point. If you want big changes you need to use the weights. The springs are for fine tailoring it (like 100 rpm increments or so).

 

do you happen to remember what setup you had to go with to achieve 5,800?

 

The 1985 3rd Gen 305, shifted at 5,500 rpm WOT and so did some of the LB9/L98 cars running the L98 cam. Basically anything not running the peanut cam should shift at 5,500 RPM @ WOT.

Even the untouched stock governor in my 83 G-Van, 5,500 rpm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koWaPeAu3hg

 

What's the part number for the B&M kit?

 

summit lists it as BMM-20248

 

Many thanks. I'm going to order one of these kits and play around with it once my gear swap is complete. Do you get instructions on what does what with it?

 

Based on the parts that I have leftover I am going to say that I used the #3 weight and the red spring to get the 5,800RPM shift. Please keep in mind that that may be completely arbitrary to your setup. This was in a fullsize Chevy Blazer with a 31" tire, 3.08 rear gear (at the time), and a slightly higher stall lockup style converter. I need to recalibrate it again for my new combination once I get it sorted out (until then I'll just shift it manually if I want max RPM shifts).

 

shift manually? how will that increase the rpm of the shift? Im alittle confused now. I can put my camaro in 1st and punch the gas. When it hits 5200 it will shift into second without me ever changing the shifter. Do you have a transgo kit or something to does that for you? If so, maybe I just need to install one of them. Thats my preferred method anyways.

 

Yes, I have the TransGo shift kit, and that's why I can do that. The kit allows it to hold a gear until I move the shifter lever. It would be easier with a console mounted shifter like in an F-body, but it can be a little cumbersome with the column shift in the truck.