a while ago i noticed at WOT my 700-r4 was not shifting into 3rd. at any other throttle position, it shifts into 3rd fine. its just at WOT that it wont shift. i watch the tach climb to 4500, then 5000, then 5500 and the engine sits at 5500 and revs and no shift occurs. i just changed the transmission fluid and filter 2 days ago but it still doesnt shift! what is wrong with my transmission? and if its something i cant do myself, how much will it cost to fix??

86 iroc-z
th700-r4 (123,000 on the clock)
LG4 305

 

3-4's are toast.

 

uhhh, do you mean the 3-4 clutches?
anyone else??

 

No I mean a Waltz

Yes the 3-4 clutches.

 

why would the 3-4 clutches be bad? the car wont shift from SECOND TO THIRD at wot.

 

The 3-4 clutches are on in 3rd and 4th.

 

mine climbs to 5k and then shifts...same problem I guess..

thinking about finding a 700r4 out of an 89-93 vette...

cheaper than getting my stock 85z tranny rebuilt?

i hate trannys

 

"mine climbs to 5k and then shifts...same problem I guess.."

Unless you mean all of the time, what is wrong with that?

The 'Vette tranny is different than the Z.

 

if i slam on the gas off the line...it creeps up to 5.5k then shifts...1-2 and 2-3

its not accelerating at all it just revs up kinda coasting then shifts...

smells like clutch to..

 

Check it again and you may see that the engine RPM's are leveling off at some point before that, say 5000 RPM. If the tranny is calibrated for 5500 (it should match the tach) you are losing acceleration waiting for the R's to get there and would be better off recalibrating the Governor for a 5000 RPM WOT shift point.

 

recalibrate the govenor...

Ill have to look into that cuz i have no idea what that is..

i wish the tranny would shift sooner...

even when i shift the tranny maually sometimes...Ill shift at 3.5k and it still wont grab where i shift at..

 

B&M makes a nice Governor recalibration kit that comes with different weights and springs so you can try different combinations till you get the WOT points you want and springs to tailor the curve. You need to go a little heavier on the weights to bring the WOT point down to match your RPM band. You will think you have a new engine when the power band is used properly!

[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited September 22, 2001).]

 

You could also go to the junkyard and find a caprice with the 700r4 and take the governor out of that. It will shift somewhere around 4500 range. If the rpm's flare up between the 2-3 shift, the 3-4's are toast.



[This message has been edited by JoelOl75 (edited September 23, 2001).]

 

It revs up to 5.5k and holds for a second then shifts..

2-3 shift..

Im looking into getting a tranny out of the yard..out of a vette as posted abpve...teh vette trannys I hear have a better gear ratio for acceleration.

Im assuming Doing a rebuild on my own would be extremely difficult.

Also its the stock torque converter...Im thinking about getting a new one as well..

*sigh* its all good untill things start breaking..

 

reading alot of the posts makes me think fixing my current stock trans wouldbe the best bet..

and a diff torque converter..

 

Just so you know, the gear ratios are the same on all 700's and the 'Vette tranny is not the same fit as a Z's.

 

Some one has been fibbin to me...thanks

 

WOW....I just stumbled into this post and I realized that I'm not the only one with this problem. I wish that someone would find this out, so that I could fix it. The one thing that I haven't tried yet is 2 adjust the tv cable. If my knowledge is correct the tv cable will allow you 2 adjust when your tranny shifts. If this is wrong let me know. Please help...somebody please help!!!!

------------------
Bad A$$ Boys Drive Bad A$$ Toys

 

The TV Cable is NOT for changing the shift points around. It tells the tranny what position the Throttle is in and that is it. Adjust it and leave it alone! To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the D button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting. Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal still floored, press the D button and pull the cable casing (the black tube) back as hard as you can and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does.

 

Transfixleo...

youve probably posted this a million times on different posts ...but.

If you were to totally rebuild a 700R4 what exact things would you have replaced, updated or upgraded...

 

Here is my basic recipe: TransGo Reprogramming kit and the Hi Rev release springs that come with it. TransGo Hi Rev Pump Ring Kit. 4L60E 3-4 pack and Input Sprag Assembly. All Borg Warner frictions. Corvette rear planetary. NEW GM Sun Shell. Minimum endplay settings. Depending on power, 553 Servo or 093 (Vette). .422" PR Boost Valve for small block, .477 for big block or HIGH power small block. .282 Int/Rev Boost Valve. TruCool LPD cooler and bypass the radiator.

The converter choice depends completely on the power band of the engine. Your stall should be at or just below where your engine STARTS to make power and the WOT shift points should be set so that it is completed BEFORE the power starts to fall off (NOT your max RPM). A top quality converter supplier is Continental: The number for Continental Converters in Inglewood Ca. is 1-310-674-1072

 

I was reading through this post and I'm begining to think that 700r4's are crap. I've never had a good one and my car is starting to do the same thing as your guys. When I hammer the gas it'll go up, stop at around 4000-4500 for a second then shift into gear, it won't down shift as good either. If I'm in fourth and hit the gas it won't down shift to second unless I hold it to the floor, my old one shifted with less pressure to the throttle. It just started this and I'm wondering if there's anything I can do before it's to late.

 

If it HOLDS in EACH gear, under throttle (not enough to kick it down) AND the oil doesn't look like Texas crude, then installing A TransGo Shift Kit/Reprogramming Kit could save it.

[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited October 02, 2001).]

 

I read a post in the tpi forum where some guy was flaming TPI's for their less than perfect "stock" performance, and I see the same analogy here I think. It seems that some of you may actually have probs. and by all means, ask away. But just because your 700 doesn't snap your neck when it shifts of maybe hangs for a sec. after a manual shift, doesn't mean it's bad. I'm no trans expert, but I've seen some killer set-ups with 700 trannies. Mine hangs a little, so I shift at 3800 or 3900 and IT actually shifts at about4400. Perfect? No. But for a stock trannie, it's great. Do the research, figure out what you want it to do, and upgrade it. The 700r4 especially in the LATER 3rd gens, kicks but!!!

 

Transfixleo...

4L60E 3-4 pack and Input Sprag Assembly

Those will fit into the 700R4 no prob?

Im thinking im going to go with the shift kit...the frictions and the 4L60E 3-4 pack and Input Sprag Assembly.

That should make a drastic difference in my trans.

Went from hanging w/ vettes to getting my *** handed to me by stock GTs.

Thanks again
PKZ

 

heres something i found..

Master 700 Raptor Rebuild Kit (Turbo Don Special). This package deal comes with : a quality master rebuild kit with Borg Warner clutches, 9 count Red Eagle clutch pack and Kolene steels for the 3-4 clutch, 3-4 clutch release spring kit, pump bushing, case bushing, pump seal retainer, filter, 2300 / 2500 RPM stall converter (#1), thrust washer kit, high performance intermediate billet servo (not Corvette servo), high performance overdrive billet servo (#3 or #3X), the Mega Valve, an oversize low / reverse boost valve, 29 element forward input sprag, 13 vane pump kit, oversize Kevlar or Red Eagle 2-4 band (2 5/8 inch), 4th gear converter lock-up switch, transmission cooler, throttle valve cable, dipstick and tube, heavy duty reaction shell, 2 high performance accumulator springs, 2 new accumulator pistons and the freight is included anywhere in the 48 United States. All of this can be yours for $825.00. How's that for a rebuild kit ! You can add or subtract from this package. Fits 1982 - early 1993 700R4 transmissions.


or..

Trans go shift kit $100
tl60e 3-4 pack $40
Input Sprag Assem $45
Borg warner or Alto red eagle $50-75
mega valve $25
high performance OD billit servo $85
high rev realease springs $33
Sunshell $56

trans cooler $55

all for under $600


no trans cooler in the kit they offer...

 

Yes and yes.

As for the Raptor stuff- please look for the thread on no 3-4 shift, read completely and abandon the idea.

 

Go to www.pro-built.net Go to rebuild kits, check out the contents & give me a call/e-mail if you have any questions about this.

 

TransGo Reprogramming Kit, Replace the Servo with the Vette Servo, Install the 4L60E 3/4 pack and B/W High Energy frictions along with the B/W High Energy Band. If the drum isn't FLAT replace it with new. Install the TransGo Hi Rev Pump Ring Kit. Go out and enjoy it for years and years!

off the other post...

sounds like what i should do as well...

looking for a good site to pick all of these pieces up.

Pro-built has the trans go kit...and the vette servo.

$101 for both...

now to find the rest...cheap

thanks again guys

[This message has been edited by PonyKillerZ (edited October 25, 2001).]

 

Does it auto/shift normally from 1st to 2nd to 3rd
at full throttle from a start when you leave the shifter in "D" or "OD"? With out slipping or hanging up? If it does your Bands and clutches are fine. The problem is
in the valve body. Clutch dust or small metal
shavings are causing one of the valves to stick. This valve curcuit is only used durng manual shifting. Have to drop the valve body
clean it and power/fluid flush the trans.
A good trans shop can do this for ya.
Let me know cause I'm chasing the same problem.
http://photos.yahoo.com/russ_q




[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited October 26, 2001).]

 

Pro Built should have it or go to
http://www.hptransparts.com/MM007.ASP?pageno=89

As for whether it shifts 1-2-3, yes, this is true is it does hold and is relatively clean then installation of the TransGo Kit will fix/prevent many problems, including the very common sticky TV Valve in the VB.

 

I installed the superior K700-R4 HP
shift kit, cleaned up the valve body
(there was some clutch dust and a metal shaving in there). It was flawless for a while, but now the 2-3 manual WOT shift problem is back again. In all other modes
it shifts nice. In "D" or "od" WOT it
shifts 1-2-3 nice and normal @4500rpm.
Bought the corvette governor to raise
the auto/shift points so I can leave it in
"OD" while running. Going to drop the valve body again and clean it again too.
Love the shift kit!!!

 

Too bad you didn't use an actual Shift Kit. The TransGo would have kept it together longer.

 

From what I've seen they're the same kit
just packaged differently. I didnt put the kit in to cure that problem. The problem is the dirt in the valve body.

 

Superior is a different company. Yes dirt is a real problem but one of the big weaknesses in the 700 is that the TV Valve sticks causing high or low pressure and when that happens you burn clutches until pressure comes up. The TransGo kit fixes this.

[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited October 27, 2001).]

 

You mean the little kicker spring to go behind the valve, it's in there. Some people recommend drilling the Tv Balance hole in
the plate to 1/16" also. Any thoughts? Allows better blow off so the valve can return (hydro lock).
This would cause a failure to part throttle shift after a kick down. Cause the tv valve remains high (depressed). I think my problem is either the 2-3 shift, valve line bias valve or tv limit valve sticking. Thats where we found the shaving stuck before.

 

second and third hold at 5.5k for way to long...

it wont shift on the dot....
the guy Imracing will get a car length on me before my car decides it needs to shift.

also on the e-way in 4th when i slam on the gas it stutters or does ntohing...happens only once in a while.

also i have no bellhousing or casing on the trans...

the guy who had it before me put all his money into the engine...then when the tranny wasnt giving it like it used to he bought a new camaro.

after i rebuild the trans w/ all these pieces, the 355 isnt going to kill it right?
(hope not)

 

Pony: Go with a Governor with heavier weights to get the shift into power band range.

F-Bird: You mean that dinky little spring? Doesn't stand a chance. The TransGo has a whole new valve AND TV System. Just flat fixes that problem and no, drillling the TV Balance as per an old ATRA bulletin won't do it. TransGo wishes it would of worked; it would have saved them a few hundred thousand dollars just developing that little piece of the kit.

 

TransfixLeo: Thanks for the info, I'll have to check into that kit.I'm looking to step up to one of the 9.5" lockup race converters, but want to sort out the trans first.I believe this tranny's still servicable once these valve body gremlims are fixed.

[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited October 28, 2001).]

 

I found a site on the WEB that shows
the Transgo Fix for that hanging TV Valve.
See what you mean now....Thanks....

 

Glad to be of help.