Are they the same thing?

Does the reprogramming kit include the shift kit plus other things?

educate me, please!


James

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1985 Z-28, 350 TPI, T-Tops, edelbrock 6085 heads, ZZ4 cam, accel base/runners & 24 lb/hr inj., ported plenum, everything gasket matched, crane AFPR, SLP 1 5/8 headers, single 3" flowmaster catback, 3" Catco cat, modified tranny, 165 ECM & ARAP code, MSD 6AL/wires, edelbrock STB, Spohn SFC/LCA/PR, GW "wonderbar"

 

Reprogramming kit? Do you mean for an electronic controlled tranny? If it's the thing you plug into the ALDL to reprogram the tranny/raise the line pressure, it won't work on a thirdgen tranny b/c they're not electronic.

 

First off, what a Shift Kit ISN'T. Most people associate the term Shift Kit with tire chirping shifts. Actually Shift Kit is a trademarked name coined and owned by TransGo Since 1959. The purpose of a Shift Kit is to correct the weak points of a given transmission. In most cases when someone complains of soft or slipping shifts it isn't BECAUSE if these complaints that they fail but rather there is a malfunction that leads TO the burned/glazed frictions and the poor shift quality is the result. There are many kit's out there designed to give you firm shifts but if that isn't the cause of your problem it isn't fixing them.
For example, in a 700 you have problems with delayed pressure rise which allows the clutches or band to slip until the pressure catches up. If you don't fix this, it doesn't matter if you put the Vette servo in or the .500 TV boost valve or not. They will only mask the problem. This problem is there whether it is a grocery getter or 5.7 IROC. The TransGo Shift Kit corrects this and other problems that these have. This kit however isn't available to the general public because of the technical knowledge required.

They do however have something that I think most of you are after though. It is called a Reprogramming Kit or also a High Performance Shift Kit. It has the basic fixes that the Shift Kit has and it has features to give the tranny HD/HP capabilities such as greater manual control and higher horsepower and torque handling ability. The 700 kit also includes some pieces for when the unit is O/H'ed to give it higher RPM capability (at higher RPM, residual oil can drag the 3-4 clutches on even when they should be off). This kit (the commercial version) has a video to aid in the installation too.

 

Transfixleo,

The reason I'm asking this question is because you are always advising people to go with the Transgo reprogramming kit and Pro-Built is always recommending (and installing) the Transgo shift kit. I don't know if you guys are calling the same thing a different name or if indeed that are something different.


James

 

TransGo has realized that people often mistakenly call any VB kit a Shift Kit, which is their name. When they came out with the Shift Kit it wasn't actually meant to be a racing kit. That came about ten years later and was called a Reprogramming Kit. Now TransGo has been calling them a High Performance Shift Kit so as to better identify with people who don't know the difference. What Pro Built and I are refering to is the same thing 95% of the time. I have mentioned Shift Kits as recommendations when I think that is what is better suited to someones needs as not everybody needs tire chirping shifts, etc.

For example, I just overhauled the tranny in my '88 Camaro last weekend. I only used the V-8 Servo and Boost Valves along with the TransGo 700 Jr. Shift Kit. I did upgrade to 4L60E internals though and the TransGo High Rev Ring Kit and Release Spring Kit. I also selected a 2600 stall converter as I have an anemic V-6 that NEEDS to get up into the RPM band for proper acceleration. I have short, firmer than stock shifts, all at the right time (I custom calibrated the VB to better match the engine) and it accelerates from a stop nicely. I don't chirp the tires as I didn't want or need to. I didn't put in the 'Vette Servo and huge Boost Valves because I didn't need to and my tranny will last longer because of this choice.

 

TF, what rebuild kit did you use? I don't know if you remember me, but I was the guy whose trans would slip in 2nd, after completing a 1-2 shift, "under any load". Lately it's been slipping in 4th too... I better get a junkyard tranny and a rebuild kit before my 2-4 band wipes itself out!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

I am "in the business" so I have everything at my disposal. I used the TransTec kit.

Why not just fix yours?



[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited October 15, 2001).]

 

The Firebird's my only car; and with work & classes, I'd have to get a rental car to be able to work on the trans. I figure I can get a newer junkyard one (87, 88), and rebuild it while I still drive my car. Then I could swap them on the weekend. Plus, on my current trans, I have the separator plate drilled out for the B&M shift kit- and I hear a new separator plate (by itself) is pretty costly. I might as well just get another trans!

'Course, I'd have to buy a new fluid pump.. the current rebuild has one, but, oh well. Do you think the Transtec kit with a Transgo reprogramming kit would be my ticket to success? I admit I do like a hard shift, but I wasn't thinking about putting in the 'Vette servo- after all, it's just a V6!



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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

I see what you mean. If you follow my list (above) I think you will be happy with it!

 

My car has the HD/HP kit leo is talking about. Although i have yet to figure out why my car doesn't **** like it did when i got the tranny new...any idea's leo? maybe it's because of the increased stall (1800 from 1200) and not haveing a tranny cooler like B&M's?

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89 IROC-Z 350 TPI

-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes

 

BranZ, The higher stall will soften the shift, although you didn't go extreme it shouldn't make that much of a difference. Second, highway gears also soften the shift as the shift takes longer real time if you were to think of it in tire revolutions, compared to low gears. Third, the hole selections also make a difference too. The more conservative your selection the longer (less firm) the shift. Lastly, did you do the TV Cable adjustment as I have many times specified? THe cooler shouldn't make a difference on that, although I would strongly recommend one.

What did you have in it before that it **** as you said? Also, perhaps you were expecting a different type of shift? It is hard for me to judge what it is doing from here! When setup properly with your setup the shifts at normal throttle should be short but not neck snapping. The more throttle you give it the firmer it should get, although with highway gears I doubt that it will bark the tires.

 

I just had my tranny rebuilt with the transgo "level 3" shift kit, vette servo, both boost valves and some other small stuff and added a vigilante 2700 TC. I finally got the exhaust back up tonight and have not messed with the TV only to attempt setting it by myself via transfixleo's method. I have a mostly stock L98 w/ 3.27 and get shifts like mentioned above - not neck breaking - but very quick between shifts which is what I wanted. I just get a small chirp from 1-2. This is what I wanted though, quick - not hard - shifts.

 

Cool, thanks! Are there any things I should check for when I rebuild the trans? Like, remember when you said you thought my input drum might be dished (because my trans slips in 2nd)? Do I just check that with a machinist's straight edge? I assume the center of the drum would be thinner than the edges...?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

The front drum is the Reverse Drum and the band rides against that. If you put the straight edge against the side of the drum it should be flat, if not, replace it. Don't skip the Input Sprag either. especially in a V-6 (due to the lower gears- they make the Sprag wear out faster).

 

Well, actually yea, the more throttle i give it the firmer it gets. It really likes to snap my neck in the morning. After it gets heated up the shifts stay short but just get softer. I think i was maybe mislead by the common misconception? of what happens when a shift kits and such things from manufacturers like B&M and transgo go into a tranny. Never the less i am happy, except a small traction problem off the line

I guess anything is an improvement from the stock 700R4. Especially when i'm able to take 3.73 geared cars off the line (Still wondering how that is possible).

------------------
89 IROC-Z 350 TPI

-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes

 

Should I just replace the input sprag and be done with it? Oh, and what's this I see in my books about a "thin sprag and spacer" used for V6's? Can I just use the thick V8 sprag?

Oh, and does the TransTec kit come with different lenghts of pins for the 2-4 apply piston? Or is that a service part?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

I'll be driving my car with its new tranny on Sunday, and somthing i heard is making me mad. higher stall is going to soften shifts? is this true? I needed a 3200-3800 RPM Stall converter because of my cam's powerband, and now im worried at part throttle this is going to screw my shifts up and make them seem sloppy. its a TH350 with a "valve body improver kit" (Separator plate + Valve body springs + Governer springs) from TCI and High Performance Clutchs. I need to feel that shift or ill go nuts.

 

You actually have the early type sprag, the smaller 26 element one. This was replaced with the larger 28 element sprag which while better is not the best. I would recommend getting the complete 4L60E input sprag assy. This is 29 elements but is a different design that seams to really hold up well, even with allot of miles. If you use the TransGo kit it doesn't matter about pin lengths since they give you what you need to adjust it. Compare the book with the TransGo instructions and where it departs from the book, go with the instructions.

Yes a higher stall makes the shift softer, at least at part throottle because LESS power is going to the tranny due to the slip of the converter.

 

It's true a hi stall converter will soften the part throttle shifts.But, If the converter is any good, when you shift at full throttle at peak horsepower Rpm, it should shift nice and hard. As hard as a stock converter would. If it doesn't the converter could be of poor design. Or a mismatch for your car. If you have a true stall speed of 3500/3800 in your car,
try shifting at full throttle at around 6600rpm. I think you will get more than you're lookin' for...

 

well, i drove it. the driveshaft is too short, and the torque arm was disconnected... but i got to drive it. Im making a new torque arm bracket holder that will go from the mount to the torque arm so it stays put, it was slapping the ground in reverse, and in drive when i downshifted it would hit the driveshaft. As for the driveshaft, Ill be taking it thurs. to get resized and balanced for my tranny. after that, things should be gogogo. As to the shift kit, even at 1/8 throttle and 2500 RPMS it still shifts really really firm. hard enough to break my tires loose AND keep the spininng for a while. i didnt go much over 3K though, that torque arm was bouncing around.

A new question: I filled my tranny with 8 Quarts of fluid, and it still says its low. I thought the pan only held 5, but how much doe the valve body + Torque converter hold together? I hope i dont overfill it...

Also, My OTHER car, (89 RS, 700R4 Stock) I'll be taking it for a Trans-go "Shift-Kit" Soon, and Im not goina install it myself, since you cant get the good kit because of the experience required or whatever... Whats the name of the best Kit Trans-go sells, so i can tel the tranny shop "this is what i want" I want the best one....

 

In total it will hold 10-11 Qts. It all depends on how much oil drained out while the VB was off. Keep assing until it is at the ADD mark then drive it till hot and make sure it is at FULL mark.