How long should it take me? and do i need to get a jack under the tranny to hold it up?

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler added to Unkown CatBack, Ported Intake

http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16

 

i did mine on my T5 car really quickly, like an hour max. You do need to hold the trans up with a jack or something(blocks?) I'm not sure about your automatic but it can't be much different. Anyone do this for an auto car?

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84 Z28 L69. 5 speed with 3.73 posi (broken)Ported heads, intake, 10:1 comp. 230/230 .480 lift cam @.050" w/108 LSA

Triumph Spitfire SCCA roadracer. 1.1 liter 4cyl w/ 14:1 comp.
turns on rails!

 

You ought to be able to do it in an hour, easy. Unless the crossmember bolts are crusted/rusted. Yes, you do need to put a jack under the tranny to keep it in place. Put a piece of wood between the pan and the jack so you don't damage the tranny. Or if you can't find a wood block, do like I did and use your least favorite text book. (Ha, p-chem 640, take that!)

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

 

Now that's a damn good idea! I'll have to remember that!

Make sure you don't overtorque the mount-to-trans bolts. You're putting a steel bolt into an aluminum case... and that can strip out the aluminum threads. I think the torque is only 25 ft/lbs? If you don't have a torque wrench, try to "remember" how tight the bolts were when you put the new mount in.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

If the crossmember bolts are rusted in place... expect this to take a while...

Mine were, but I managed to get 3 of the 4 out... the 4th broke off flush with the hole, so there was no hope there. I've been running with 3 bolts no problem, but it should be fixed... there are people runing with only 1 bolt on each side and they don't have problems either.

Did you get the Energy Suspentions mount? If you did, expect to have to drill the hole in the cross member a little bigger to fit the bolt.

LIFT THE TRANS BEFORE YOU START LOSTENING ANY BOLTS! I can't stress this enough. When I did it, I just had the just rest on it "just in case" Well when I got the one side of the crossmember loose/off, the trans started pushing down on it and bending it... and probably contributed to the bolt breaking.

All in all... it's not that hard at all. Make sure you're safe about everything (jacking/supporting car, full eye protection if you drill, metal in the eye is NOT fun!), give yourself more time than you think you'll need so you don't rush through, and you'll be fine.

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

Your luck will have a lot to do with how long it will take. On my car, some genious had replaced the mount once before and cross-threaded the bolts going into the T-5's extension housing. Despite being as gentle as possible and soaking with penetrating oil several times in the weeks prior to removal, BOTH bolts broke off inside the housing. Transmission disassembly was begining to be a distinct possibility. Luckily, we were able to extract the remains of both bolts without further damage to the holes in the housing. MAJOR PITA! They cleaned up with a tap and the new bolts torqued down fine. Total time involved, about 4 hours with the car on a lift and a shop full of tools.

Good Luck!

 

here's some pics, and i posted more in the suspension board where it asks about tranny mount rotted..


heres the pics







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91 FireBird 305 V-8
Edelbrock Catback, Custom Alarm. Fourth Gen Console. i have six cupholders. all for starbucks!
Go|)Created The Earth, And Then Turned Up The Bass.
Here's My Audio Install!

"Honda's FOR ME TO POOP ON!" -Triumph...

 

There is a little step by step tech article on here too I think. No pics though.

 

I just replaced my trans mount and my cross member bolts were not about to move, so I jacked the back of the trans up a little and it was enough to get the center bolt out of the cross member, the only thing is you have to play with getting the wrench and socket up through the cross member to the bolts holding the to the trans. I lowered the trans back down to make sure the new bolts lined up and used a box end wrench to tighten the new bolts because you will not get a socket up there.

 

Florida bird is right. just jack the back of your trans up and use a wrench. I've done this on both a T-5 AND a 700R4....saves you the grief of broken crossmember bolts


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85 Berlinetta Iroc exterior NOW 454 powered, 4.10 gears, 275/60/15 Hoosier Quicktimes freshly installed th350 3200 stall, shift kit, reworked valvebody, Megashifter, Biondo linelock ..........YES, it's street driven!

check it out at http://www.bsronline.net

 

I agree, that's how I did both of my mounts (didn't know about the ES one back then), jacking up the trans with a wide wood block between the jack and trans pan...