csimpson1

when i am going from reverse into drive, when it shifts it sounds like my motor takes a crap. it hits really hard and jolts the car a little. it really is hard to explain, but only happens when i shift from reverse to drive. if i sit for a minute in nuetral and then go into drive, it hits softer, but other than that it really doesnt sound good

700r4 behind a 305 carbed 84 firebird

skiroulertx447

check your motor mounts and tranny mount

regal301

is it the original 1984 trans? that was one of the problems with the earlier 700r4's and thats why the later ones got aux. valve bodys.

also did it just start, or has it always done this?if its somthing new check out the mounts and u joints.if its been there all along and its the original trans then you know why they updated them almost every year until 1989.

csimpson1

Will check the motor mounts.
I recently put the new transmission on there, but it did this before the tranny was replaced.
I never really thought about the motor mounts. that was a great idea, thanks!
Where are they located on my bird?

skiroulertx447

The motor mounts are on the k member under the engine. I replaced them on my car and they didn't change a damn thing, but its good to have new ones. BTW they were a PITA to change. I was thinking my car was still jumping when put into gear because the idle was maybe too high because my egr or maf is messed up.

Now that I'm putting in a tranny from a 93 with the aux valve body, i will see if it still does this...

csimpson1

what is the MAF? ive read alot about it and i read if you take it off and the car continues to run, its bad, but what does it control?

skiroulertx447

Mass air flow is the sensor on early tpi cars, you said you have a carb so you should be able to set the idle speed.

berlin305

iTrader: (2)

okay your problem is not the idle nor the motor mount or transmission mount. Look at your transmission bolts to the engine. Mine was look and sound like a rod was going and loud clunking ect.. Then i had another noise and clunking recently. Culprit bad flywheel. Get under the car pull off the flywheel cover. Use your hand and move the torque converter and if its moves freely like inch or any free movement before it hardens. Flywheel in the inner bolts to the engine elogated. meaning the bolt holes are oval and making it slop. Just the way you are describing sounds like this but to void this out just pull flywheel off and check to see if you have slop in the torque converter and back to move it back and forth turning not in and out. rotation movement if its solid and don't move then its not that. but check mine did this. imo. or tv cable needs readjusted also since your carb'ed like mine. i had to adjust mine at an earlier time when it was hard shifting. just some lil things you can cross off the list easy and quick. but if you have any slop by moving the torque converter you will need to buy new flywheel which autozone has one for 41 bucks. idle should be at least under 1grand or at 1grand any more then it would jump.

RocketyMan

As a side note, that's how you check the clutch teeth out. You have the car in reverse and quickly pop it down into drive (while not moving of course). It should all feel like one motion.

Rags91RS

I think I know exactly what you are talking about. My car used to have the same clunk/jerk. Check your U-joints bro.

RocketyMan

It could also be the lash on the pinion and ring gear. Although I doubt it...but it is a possibility for slop.