I noticed I have two bad wheel studs. One is missing almost all threads on the stud and lug nut except the outer most on the nut which lets the nut freespin.

I already have ARP Studs bought somewhere (packed them away years ago when I moved). I'm going to verify there the right knurl of 0.509" after I find them.

I have a 9-bolt rear end. I've read that I need to remove the brake anchor plates that are held on by 4 bolts to get the extended studs in place and then pull them in with anti-seize, new lug nut, and a stack of washers. Is that it? I'm hoping I don't have to mess with pulling the axle or drilling out the holes any larger.

 

Thats pretty much the process. I havent done one on a 9 bolt, but before you pull the backing plates, try to see if there is a spot that you can start the lug through.

Im not sure on the antiseize. Ive never used it before. Always have just let the impact gun bring it in. I have used green loctite before on a FSAE car when the holes were alittle on the loose side. but thats another story.

 

I replaced all the studs on one side of my 9 bolt with replacements from Autozone. I didn't have to remove anything from the rear end to put the new ones in.

 

Did mine on one side a couple of months ago....

Al I had to do was remove the caliper & rotor. Air hammer knocked the old ones out & a new nut & washers pulled the new ones in. Went with a slightly larger knurl so getting the new ones in was "fun" but not hard. Just not as quick & simple as using the "right size" woulda been.

 

Cool. Thank you very much for your input. I found my ARP wheel studs 100-7708 so those look like the correct size I need. Hopefully I'll start tearing into the car tomorrow and get it done with only removing the caliper and rotor off each side then. I'll have to get some washers and new acorn lug nuts (old ones are toasted and don't want to cut any threads on new studs).

 

I got new lug nuts at O'Riellys that are correct & have the outer threads for the individual screw on plastic cover caps.

In fact, I used "standard" lug nuts to pull the lugs through, then used the correct lug nuts afterwards. That way, if pulling the lugs through stressed the nuts in any way, they were replaced by the correct ones anyways.

 

I also bought the dorman lug nuts from O'Riellys for $1.49 each. Autozone had them for around $2.50 each. I also checked the price of rotors, due to the fact I would have it apart anyways at $110 each from O'Riellys I'll pass on rotors for now since mine don't have very much wear (no grooving or dips).

Did the passenger side first, I still need to do the driveside.

Here's the process for anyone else that's interested. Like I said this is a 9-bolt with disc brakes. Process basically went:

1) Loosen lug nuts
2) jack up vehicle
3) put jackstands under vehicle for safety reasons
4) remove lug nuts
5) remove tire
6) remove 2 bolts holding the brake retainer on the plate
7) wire up caliper and retainer onto underbody so it wasn't pulling on the lines
8) thread on old lug nuts onto old studs
9) hit them with a hammer (like 2 or 3 lb ballpeen hammer), remove lug nut and remove the old stud
10) put antiseize on new press in studs
11) My Rotor was stuck on due to some stupid shop not using antiseize on the backside of the rotors, so I couldn't remove them. I couldn't get them to loosen by tapping with ballpeen hammer. I wasn't able to put in longer studs with rotor in place. I'm sure with OEM replacements it wouldn't be an issue. I removed the 4 bolts on the brake anchor plate, which made the axle slid out a little bit.
12) Cleaned debris off wheel bearings, inspected seal for any cracks.
13) Put new studs in holes and carefully aligned spline (by slowly rotating the axleshaft until it dropped in place again) and installed axle again.
14) Tightened 4 bolts on anchor plate
15) Pressed new studs in by flipping lug nut around and pulling them through using stack of washers between lug nut and rotor. Stopped once I saw the lip of the stud was against the backside of the axle hub. Repeated for each. (I've heard of people messing up threads that way, but I imagine the chances are slim with ARP since there higher strength than OEM ones).
16) Cleaned the rotor to prevent any oil or grease from getting in the pads.
17) Installed brake caliper and bracket again by tightening the 2 bolts on the archor
plate.
18) Put Rim and lug nuts back on.
19) Removed stands and lowered the jack
20) Tightened the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs (aluminum rims)
21) Threaded beauty caps back on. They didn't go all the way down but good enough.

Overall I think it went pretty well. I think 2.5" ARP studs should be long enough for my draglites I don't plan on seeing much track time if any, mostly just cruise nights.

 

Driver side has bonded with the steel rotor, which is why I normally put antiseize on rotors mounting surfaces. I've hit the tire a few times but it didn't come loose. I've put PB Blaster on it and I'll try again tomorrow after it soaks overnight.

 

Managed to get the tire off, but rotor was once again stuck, then axleshaft decided to give me a hard time. I pulled it and put new studs in. I decided to just drill the beauty caps out to expose the end of the stud so they thread all the way on the lugs.

Draglite rims are still a little to big for the 2.5" studs. The lug nuts don't have 5 or 6 of the outer threads on them used. Probably should have went to 3" Stud but oh well. Being these are a lot longer than OEM and stronger I don't have any worries. I'm not worried about passing Tech Inspection, just for safety on the street.