I've been trying to figure out why my T56 started to grind into second if I didn't give it enough pedal on the shift. I know that my slave was leaking at the time, so I changed that, with no difference. The instructions said to leave the strap on and it would break the first time you hit the clutch. So without jumping to the conclusion of synchros, I decided to change the master out for a new one. Now I haven't test driven it yet cause it's too late, but in the process, noticed that the strap didn't break. I can tell that it's moving, via a mirror since I'm all by myself tonight It looks like it's moving about 3/4" or so, give or take a little bit. For example, it looks like at full pedal travel, it moves the strap all the way down until it's tight, or almost tight (hard to tell pushing by hand and looking at the mirror), but not enough to break it. I'm just not sure if it's actually supposed to break or not cause the instructions kinda looked generic to cover severy types and styles of their slaves. Anyone have any experience with their straps and weather or not they broke?

 

Normally they break off since they are used just for shipping and installing, either way don't think it's going to affect anything but if you want you could get 2 pliers hold both ends at the same time and get someone to step on the clutch, should pop the straps off.

 

Well I thought that they were only for shipping also, but then the instrustions stated that it was intended to break of and leave the little cup part between the slave rod and the fork. So that way leaves kinda like a cushioning "bushing" so you don't have metal on metal. I'm just wondering why mine isn't breaking even though it looks like plenty of travel with the clutch pedal. Normally I wouldn't be all that concerned about it if it was shifting normally, but it's not, so I'm just trying to cross my T's and dot my I's before I even consider a bad synchro.

 

Maybe the plastic straps stretched, how did you go about bleading the system?

 

I had the slave unbolted and the resevior cap off and kept pumping the slave rod by hand until no more air would come out of the resevior.

 

Yeah that should do it as long as you had the rod end on the slave tilted down about 45*, also pump it tells it gets really hard then you know for sure it's good.

BTW how could you blead it if you had the straps still on? You need the full motion of the slave to do it right I would think.

 

personally, i just bought a slave with a bleeder screw when my stock one bit the dust. it sounds like your slave isnt getting enough pressure to extend all the way, which is why the straps arent breaking.

 

Good point, forgot to mention though that I took the strap off to bleed it.

Tom