I swapped in a retrofit t-56 some time ago. It uses the t-5 bell, hydrualics, and pedals. It worked great for a while. I recently swapped in a carbed 350, and in the process put on a new flywheel, clutch, pp, and t/o bearing. I reused the stock t-5 bell, hydraulics, and pedals. That setup worked fine for a few weeks, just a little hard to shift. Then it just gave out one day. The clutch wont release, I cant get the car into gear with the engine running. I know its not the trans because I can start it in first, and speed shift and it moves in all gears, I just cant stop. So far Ive replaced both the master and slave cylinders, and bled them repeatedly. Ive also pulled the trans and changed the to bearing. The old one was pretty messed up (cheap autozone piece of crap). The clutch still wont disengage. I noticed after I put the trans back in, the clutch fork looks like it sticks out too far. The rod from the slave to the fork isnt straight, its cocked at an angle away from the bell. Im thinking the fork is slightly bent, not allowing the to bearing to fully disengage the clutch. Does this sound right to anyone else? Ive also heard other people with the same problem shimmed the flywheel and that solved the problem. But usually the clutch wouldnt disengage at all after the clutch swap, not just all of a sudden one day.

And sorry for the novel I just wrote.

 

couple posibilities here, the fork may not be properly seated on the pivot ball, and the new pressure plate springs may be hitting the flywheel bolts.

 

I'm sure the fork is properly seated. And wouldn't the pp springs hitting the flywheel bolts keep the clutch from working at all, not just work for a few weeks then stop?

 

i doubt your hitting the flywheel bolts, but your pivot rod should not be crooked, should be straight, double check to make sure it's engaged properly on the pivot ball, also check your clutch pedal stud on the inside of the car where the master cylinder rod connects too, mine wore out once.

 

I thought the mount for the master on the pedal was just a piece of metal welded onto the pedal arm, how does that wear out?

 

Because it is just a pin for the linkage to hook to and the back and forth movements wear that pin down if you dont have the nylon bushing between.

 

I replaced the master not too long ago, and the bushing was there and there wasnt any play in it.

 

I'm still leanin towards the fork has popped off it's ball, Especially since the slave rod is angled.

 

I finally got around to dropping the trans yet again. Turns out the clutch fork isnt bent.....its just not the right fork at all. Now I know youre asking yourself, "How is it not the right fork?" Well Ill tell you. When I initially swapped in the t-56 on the stock engine, I had to change out my bell housing since mine was cracked. I got one off craigslist that the guy said came out of his 3rd gen camaro. I put it in with the fork that was with it. It worked fine with the stock engine, just a slight pulsation in the pedal. Then I swapped in the 350. It drove for a few weeks, but the pulsation was worse. Turns out, the fork i got from the guy wasnt long enough inside the bell housing after the pivot ball and the throw out bearing was barely seated on it. It was on the fork just enough to allow me to fully disengage the stock clutch. But when I swapped the engine, I used an aftermarket clutch that required more pressure to disengage. The barely seated throwout bearing would actually pivot on the end of the fork, and not fully depress the pressure plate springs. So now I have a new clutch fork on order and should have it by monday (7/12). But if someone in the DFW area has one laying around that they can get to me before then, Id gladly take it.