I had to remove the cover to fix a leaking gasket, but I can't seem to find the instructions from when I put the thing on the first time anywhere. If anyone has theirs handy, could you post the torque specs for the cover itself and the bearing cap supports? Thanks!

 

i always thought it was just tighten till tight and just a lil more.. oh and a lil trick i learned for putting in diff fluid, measure the right amount that u need and put it in a zip lock bag and put the bag inside the diff and cover with the plate.. the gears will rip the bag to shreads with no damage to the gears and no mess on the ground ..

 

So should I close the bag before I put it the housing, or just leave it open?




















For real? you and your pos RS can gtfo my thread

 

wtf is ur issue man? i was just trying to pass on a helpfull hit to make a mess free install.. jeez

 

The ziplock bag trick is a 4x4 trail repair, its not good to do. Sure it won't hurt the gears but could get in the bearings and prevent oil from getting in them. Its meant to be a temporary fix so you can get the vehicle back home/shop etc/.

 

ive done the ziplock bag trick to a beater that i couldn't get the filler plug out of.. I had no issues with it for the few years l owned it afterwords.. I would't do it unless it was a last resort. I would think a ziplock bag is no harder then RTV yet people have no problems slopping that crap allover the rear housing/cover.. anyways.. heres the info you need. From my 1983 FSM. These are the STOCK rear end numbers so check to see if they are different.

Edit.. oops.. you need 9 bolt..

http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic414786.htm


TORQUE SPECS:
Pinion Bearing Preload-Inch Lbs. NEW 12-15 USED 6-7
Ring Gear Bolts-Ft Lbs. 65
Bearing Cap Bolts-Ft Lbs. 45
Axle Retainer Bolts-Ft Lbs. 36
Rear Cover Bolts-Ft Lbs. 25
Carrier Half Bolts-Ft Lbs. 29

Fluid Capacity with stock cover 1.7 qts

Backlash-.006-.010 inch

 

Theres no point to use a bag to hold the fluid as long as your plug isn't stuck. The TA covers has fittings on it for a reason.



As for the directions I asked once too and another member was nice enough to post them for me.

 

Thanks!

 

Really? You cant be mature about it and apolgize to the guy?

 

Nah hes too cool living in Bel Air and all.....

 

Apologize for what? I thought he was being a smart ***. Even if he wasn't, it was a stupid suggestion.

 

The OP's question has been asked and answered.

JamesC

 

I had to rebuild a 20,000 mile rear end because a dealer tech used too much RTV on the cover and the crap peeled off and went through the bearings and screwed them up. There should be NOTHING floating around in the rear end other than oil. NO ZIP LOCK BAGS!

 

Due to manufacturing process for the 9 bolt rear bearing caps, they must be marked for position and then removed to grind, sand, or machine the ouside edge of the bearing cap. This will provide a flat surface for the load bolt to seat against.
If using the recommended bearing cap stud kit do the following:
A. Removed the original bolts holding the caps one side at a time
B. Install studs, and torque studs into the housing no more than 10ft/lbs
C. Re-install bearing caps and torque nuts to 50ft/lbs with oil
Back load bolts out to clear the bearing caps, but do not remove them, failingto back out the load bolts may damage the cover or bearing caps
Install the TA Performance girdle
Torque the mouting bolts to 25ft/lbs (max)
screw the load bolts in by hand until they make contact with the bearing caps. Torque the load bolts to 5-10ft/lbs MAXIMUM, excessive torque will result in distorted bearing caps. DO NO OVER TORQUE THE LOAD BOLTS!! Then snug or torque the jamb nuts to 20ft/lbs to lock the load bolt

I just re torqued my TA cover to these specs. I was leaking a little gear oil through the "load bolts/jamb nuts". I'm thinking the rear must have to much gear oil if it is leaking from that area?

 

They always leak there if you don't use thread sealer.

 

would you suggest lock tight ,teflon tape or thread sealent??

 

I usually squirt some RTV sealant around the bolt after torquing it and before I put the nut on. Works fine most of the time.

 

Auto Parts stores sell actual thread sealant it in little tubes. I usually use it on intake bolts threads and around the flange of the bolt. Especially on motors that have "hidden" bolts inside the actual intake to help prevent a hidden oil or vacuum leak.

 

Actually I shouldn't have said thread sealer in post number 15, I should have said sealer under the nut. Thread sealer doesn't work well with this set up because of the length of the bolt and the way you have to torque it. Just squirt some RTV around the bolt before you put the jamb nut on and then wipe off the excess after the nut is tight. I haven't seen any leaks by doing it this way, and I've done several this way.