Alrighty then, lets get down to business. I dont have the money for a 12 bolt and also "chevy's dont need 9" fords" so I'm going to rebuild the 10 bolt thats in a 1987 S.C. Camaro. Engine will be a 383 with 11.1 to 12.1 compression with probly close to 550. ( did a 383 build for a buddy and his hit 502hp on pump gas 93*, so its possible i guess) Now, the tranny will be a 700R4 with a Mega Monster Transmission rebuild kit with a 2000 stall.

Rear end work will be a. All parts listed will be from summit

Eaton posi *Part #19599-010*

Ring and Pinion 3.73 *part # sum - 741011*

Richmond Set (rebuild parts like bearings, races, ect)
Part # RMG - 831016m

That stated, Will this be good enough to probly withsdtand 450lbs of torque or more??? *FIRST REAR END BUILD FOR ME, NEEDS LOTTA ADVICE ON SUBJECT) Better to hear it straight from other member and already read all the other 10 bolt posts, not much help there.

 

No, that won't be enough to handle it if you put slicks on it or sticky street tires. If you put some hard tires on it and just do burnouts then it might hold up for a while. You need to set aside some money for a better rear end. The little 7.5 10 bolt just wasn't designed for this type of abuse. Any money that you put into this rear end will probably be wasted because it will probably break. You are spending a lot of money on other parts and trying to go cheap on the rear end. That won't work.

 

I installed a 4th Gen diff then installed Mosher C clip eliminators
I machined the axle flanges to retain the 3rd gen width...

Don't know how you think the 700 is going to hold up I had one fully built same stall
full manual VB trans cool.. on my previous 350 TPI with descent mods... not close to my current....
shifted great would chirp hard 2-3 that lasted a few months then it started slipping

PS I would look into installing Richmond gears<<<<< bad stories out there<<<

 

hmm, what would you suggest building? a 12 bolt, Ive talked to this guy whos been building rear ends for 40 years says you build the 10 bolt just right you can slap it around at the track and be a piece of cake for drivability? maybe he's just trying to bait me in?

 

ahhh, and after ive heard good things about the 700 too. I have 3 tranny's, a 350 turbo. a 400 and 700r4 for that overdrive for highway use everyonw and than

 

If I were you I would install a 4l80e... I have one and was going to build a auto
but a stick is such a blast.... they are heavy!!!! the MV body is cheap to do and super strong 4sp

 

It will be something I WILL look into. I enjoy the manuals also but Im going to go Auto on this one

 

they are at least 40lb heavier then a 700 but anyone with 400+ usually looks into the 4l80 they usually get a premium for them I paid 550. 3years ago

 

As far as I know, the 10 bolt is lighter and light means faster turn-in maybe better handling and quicker acceleration, thats what I think. Its kind of efficient thats why I was just going to rebuild it, if it breaks, I'll gladly say I failed epicly, But I'm gonna go with the underdog

 

You can spend $1500 on parts and labor trying to make the 7.5 stronger, but you still have a weaker rear end. You are going to need the Eaton Posi, gears, installation kit, axles, TA Performance cover and some other stuff before this rear end even has a chance. If you break it then that $1500 went in the trash. Take that $1500 and put it with about $700 more and you will have a rear end that you won't break.

 

it cost me no where near $1500.00 if your up this high
get a Mosher or Currie diff....
I did have the Eaton carrier with the Mosher Clip eliminator
the 700 would get rocked before the 10 bolt will go
unless you neutral rev & drop

 

There is a big difference between an 8.5 ten bolt and a 7.5 ten bolt. The stock rears in these car's are 7.5 and not worth rebuilding if you plan on driving the car hard.

 

All parts total, it only comes to about 1,016. Its either this, or a moser 12 bolt but what im sketchy about, is its 2,800 smackers includes everything, theres this one http://www.moserengineering.com/comp...figurator.html and the more expensive complete assembly



http://www.moserengineering.com/comp...gurator-2.html I mean, I can save and buy a better set but Im worried about fabrication wise, I want the car to retain alot of its stock structure without alot of cutting and grinding off areas for fitting. Will a 12 bolt be a direct fit or is there going to be issues?

 

If not could you fellas possibly point me in the right direction of which setup I should look into?

 

Nuff said

http://www.moserengineering.com/comp...e-package.html

 

A bolt in assembled Moser 12 bolt is $2165 with the Eaton Posi and 30 spline c clip axles. You can use the brakes off of a later S10. This is a bolt in with no fab needed.

 

Im liking this link you sent me. Now why does it say I can't use stock brakes? probly a dumb question but I really dont know and also HOW is it exactly you can tell if a rear end can handle this much torque and whats a spool? and why is it dangerous on the street?

 

Most third gen Camaros have this type of housing end.



The 12 bolt has this type of housing end. Notice the difference in the way that the brakes bolt on. This picture is actually of a later S10 housing end with drum brakes. You can use the S10 brakes on the 12 bolt.



This is a spool.



This is a mini spool installed in a 8.2 10 bolt standard differential case. Either one of these will lock both axles together solid so that there is no give when turning a corner. This puts a lot of stress on the axles, studs and wheels. I have seen these parts break from the stress of using a spool on the street. This is dangerous because loosing a wheel while driving down the road can cause a pretty bad accident, and you don't know which way the car will go when this happens.

The strength of a rear end is usually judged by the size of the ring gear. Usually the larger the ring gear the stronger the rear end. The 7.5 10 bolt that was used in the 3rd gen is very small. The 12 bolt has a 8 7/8 ring gear, which will handle a lot more torque. Other things like axle size and bearing size paly a part too.

 

OOOhhh, ok so its sorta like what i did to a mustangs rear end but with out the part called a "spool" I took and welded the spider gears with the help of my father to make it all a solid part, it was fun at first untill 5mph slight corner rear end constantly just went a hopin'. I do plan on using drum brakes, what do you mean later s10. early 80-85? 85-90? 90's in general? Wonder if its much simpler to have my local speesdshop to find and setup the compatible brake drum setup.

 

I don't know what year the S10 went to a 4 bolt backing plate, but I think it was somewhere in the early '90s. The older S10 had the same 3 bolt backing plate that the F body had. Just look for 4 bolt backing plates and they will work. The '92 rear end that I put in my '84 S10 has the 4 bolt brakes. I used these same brakes on some 12 bolt rear ends that I built for some guys in Poland.

 

I have a daily driver, 5.0 ,auto. with street tires so the 10 bolt build was perfect for my application. Pushing the kind of power your going to be running I would have gone with either a 12 bolt or 9". That being said here's what I did. New 28 spline Eaton Posi.,New 28 spline axles,3.42 ring and pinion, Master bearing kit, new axles bearings and seals. LPW Ultimate Support Cover. Thats as close to one of the stronger 10 bolts Ive seen and works for me. For about $800.00 more I could have gotten the 12 bolt or 9" but just did not see why.

 

I had a 7.625 when I had my 383.
I welded the axle tubes and got a diff girdle. It lasted a couple runs of low 1.5 60ft's, then blew up!

Dont waste money on the small 7.625 10 bolt.

This is what I have, QP ford 9", spool with 35 spline axle.
I have seen guys in the 8's with that combo.

Best money spent, it'll never break!
http://www.quickperformance.com/

 

Thanks, No longer looking to build the 10 bolt. My brother suggests a 9" but I hear so much about the 12 and for good reason, its probly as strong as 10 bolt is weak when going big numbers. Wondering if I pull from a s10, dont they have leaf springs? or does that not really matter?

 

By the way big gear head, whats the link to this *bolt in assembled Moser 12 bolt is $2165 with the Eaton Posi and 30 spline c clip axles.*

 

Is there any real difference between using a LPW Ultimate Support Cover and a TA cover?

 

Here's a link to LPWs web site explaining why they are the best choice.. = http://www.lpwracing.com/p_ultimate_covers.asp
Here's were a bought mine = http://www.jegs.com/i/L.P.W./619/301-7.5G/10002/-1
I would imagine that either one is strong enough until you start to get into the really higher HP/Torque range. LPW covers are built for extreme racing situations.

 

For the 87 S.C. street car, It will see burnouts, fishtails and donuts ect. Will an eaton posi be able to handle that? Im assuming it would handle it better than a standard thats it it now thats already seen its fair share of it, just want to make sure because it has clutches and Ive been hearing that clutches wear out quickly

 

Cones wear out quickly, not the clutch plates. The Auburn uses cones, and it wears out much quicker than the Eaton Posi, which has clutch plates.

 

Ok, ya learn something new everyday, can you tell me why cones wear out faster than clutches? Also I assume you would suggest the eaton with clutch plates for those driving conditions?

 

Cones are soft metal grinding against soft metal. They just don't have much wear resistance. The old Eaton Posi used heat treated steel plates, which worked very well and lasted for 40 years. The new Eaton Posi uses carbon fiber lining ont he clutch plates, which should last even longer. I like the old plates better becasue there were 18 of them in the Posi, but only 14 in the new Posi. The more clutch plates, the more friction area.

 

Wondering if you would happen to maybe know a price of how much to have rear-end smith build it for me? I know its not a universal price but untill i get down to the shop monday afternoon i was thinking no more than 500.00. what would you think, supply all parts, just need to be put together.

 

If your paying labor plus good parts the 7.5 10 bolt ain't for you.

Here is what I did on mine, major cheap budget.


I got used 4.10's on Ebay that ended up looking like new.

Welded the tubes.

Solid pinion bearing spacer, this one little part is the most important upgrade.

Moser 28 spline axles, would have used stock but found them impossible to find.

Auburn 28 spline carrier that a friend gave me for free after I blew up the original Auburn 26 spline.

I have a T5 so this makes the rear stronger than the trans. Been running like this for years. I don't think it is worth putting a penny into a 7.5 for 450+ horse. I think that's getting into the range where the little pinion gear is going to fail.

Also, just my opinion is save the money on the rear cover, they are a waste of money in my opinion.

 

oh, yeah i realized from askin' and researching is that if you are building a 10 bolt to race best bet is the 8.5 or upgrade to the 12 bolt, 9" ect ect, but for a street car with like 300-390 somewhere in there, i firmly believe that a beefed 7.5/7.625 can handle the road without blowing up. I just dont want the labor to be some ridiculous price

 

Labor can run from $250 to $600.

 

Ok, so i got everything needed to build this mild 10 bolt finaly. now everythings finished but the eaton posi card strongly suggests lakewood 80-90w mineral based gear oil...I have to speacial order it and im not looking to buy a bottle for 12 bucks than another 12 for shipping and handling... So i was looking at the high performance gear lube 80-90w mineral LUCAS gear oil at my local AutoZone. anyone wanna help me here on the difference of these two oils?