Jupiter

iTrader: (1)

Am doing a hydraulic clutch conversion. I have acquired a pedal and master
cylinder setup from a 92 camaro. Am using a hydraulic throw out bearing rather
then a slave cylinder so i need pressure PUSHED to the bearing.

Am not knowledgeable on the hydraulic clutch setup so i need to find out about
push/pull. What part of the stock system does the push or pull? Is it the master
cylinder or the slave? If it is a function of the slave then i can use the stock
type master cylinder which would be good for me for now.

Guys i also need to know what is the bore on the factory master cylinder?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The only common "pull" clutch relevant to V8 Chevy is the 89-96 6 speed Vette and 93-97 6 speed F-body.

The F master cylinders look no different than 84-92 and 98-02 F.
The F slave cylinders look no different than 84-92 (but are missing the bleeder.)

The only "pull" to the valeo 89-97 pressure plates is the fork pulling on the throwout bearing. This is because the slave pushes toward the front of the vehicle.

Look up some 93-97 T56 stuff; it'll make sense.

In your case, you need to match up the master cylinder bore & stroke/travel to the required volume of the throwout bearing.

FWIW, I think a concentric TO brg is okay, but it's more work to change out in case of a leak, has no functional advantage over the stock style slave except for header clearance and can't be purchased at a normal parts store readily (unless you're going to an OEM type one.)

Jupiter

iTrader: (1)

This is what i thought and needed some verification before i order the bearing.

In my case i not only don't want to use the slave but i also can't. Am setting
this up for now with my T10 4 speed so using the slave would require LOT'S
more modding that i would rather not do.

After closer inspection of pedals and mc i noticed that not only were the pedal
bushings worn out 'easy bushing fix' but, the nub on the clutch pedal where
the mc rod goes to is worn out and the eyelet on the mc rod is worn out. Am
thinking these parts will always suffer from wear in the same manner no matter
what. So welding a new nub on the pedals and using a clevis mounted eyelet
shank attached to the mc rod will last MUCH longer while keeping more precise
tolerances 'NO PLAY IN THE PEDAL'. This will also allow me to adjust pedal
hight.

It appears i will probably end up using a
Ram78125HD bearing + Wilwood 260-10372 mc + sleave + clevis eyelet shank

EDIT: I called Ram for verification on the bearing then, i called Wilwood to verify
i selected the right mc 'it was he who brought up the push/pull issue which led me
to ask here'.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

A Lakewood 15020, 84-91 fork & 84-97 hydraulics would let you keep clutch, TOB & trans. the same while going hydraulic. Not sure what modding you mean.

Too bad about the pedal wear; quite ironic given that you're trying to get away from the high-war mechanical linkage parts.

I like how Tick angles their master cylinder for f-bodies so it clears the brake booster.

Jupiter

iTrader: (1)

Ironic indeed... hehe
As Oscar Goldman would say... I CAN BUILD IT BETTER AND FASTER

Your idea is very nice AND pricey. Am not looking to spend $1000 for
bellhousing + mc + fork + hydraulics

As it stands i will be spending less then $300 and get rid of the fork and slave.
No matter which way you look at it, the less parts involved the more efficient
the system will be. A hydraulic bearing is no harder to R&R then a manual
bearing. Fewer parts means fewer points of failure. Besides if hydraulic bearing
was not better then why are they widely used now 'new camaro and MANY racers'.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

In the case of OEMs, dollars.

Racers who mod the parts so they can pull a trans. every race anyway don't mind serviceability issues like I do.

Swt SS

I too am going to install a 07 tahoe 5.3L in my 88 mcss, I will be using a '89 camaro v8 t5 tranny. it is hydralic, not sure if that is a push/pull tranny but was told it will
hook up to the LS and work just fine as is...is this correct?...