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Im installing the trans cooler lines on my transmission, and im having some troublle getting them routed right. is there any tricks on making this easier. thanks,Eric
The reason it's such a PIA is that when it was being built the lines were fitted to the engine and transmission before they went into the car .
I have no advice beyond removing as many things that are in the way as are practical to remove, and then a little careful bending and a lot of patience.....
Thanks for the guidance and heads up, yeah I ordered a set from Inline Tube as the upper line is cracked at the radiator... I'll have a go at it but looks like a fun job
If I discover any strategy will share for future reference
yea, its really just one of those basic-yet-difficult tasks. the angles to use your fingers and tools are challenging, the space in the trans tunnel is tight, and making sure not to cross thread them while frustration grows is a problem.
makes sense and appreciated, I procured a SK Tools 1/2" crows foot flare nut wrench and looks like using it with a wobble extension will help... will probably have to practice and step away as needed
Biggest problem I always had with those, in lots of chassis, was near the engine mounts. Sometimes the only solution was to remove them before the lines would go in.
That, you could cut off and flare the one line down below there somewhere; do the same to a short stick of 5/16" brake line from around the corner; bend it up nice with a tubing bender; use a flare union; and thereby just replace the fornicated portion. Leave the rest alone.
Get a radiator while you're at it and do away with that crusty skanky leeeeeeky thing in those photos.
Yeah I was thinking the same and then figured in I don't have a bender, flare tool, and parts for a union got me to dang near the same cost or more as the prebent tubes are $45.
The heater hose above was leaking, radiator seems okay but I haven't started it yet as been sitting since 1996 and was planning to switch out the hose and flush everything. I was turning the motor over and this started spewing trans fluid.
The thing about tools is, you get to use them more than once. (if you buy good ones) Which means as soon as you discover the next thing that needs a piece of tubing, you're already there; and the tools start making you money instead of costing you. And like it or not, there always seems to be a "next thing".
The most expensive piece will be the flaring tool. You'll want one that can do a double flare. Next most $$ will be the bender. You can take a look at Home Depot etc. and price them out. The line, union, and cutter are pretty cheeeep comparatively..
I have my engine out right now and I was looking at the lines thinking about replacing them... Seems like a good call on my 34 year old IROC. I also plan to update my aftermarket, 2nd trans cooler during this time.
Good luck to all and nice work on the fix Calidude, if that is your first time it's nice and neat.
Yes the fitting is the same at both ends, since the tubing is the same at both ends; 5/16" inverted flare. Can't recall off the top of my head what the threads are for that fitting but it doesn't matter, because all 5/16" inverted flare fittings have the same thread. 5/16" inverted flare is all you need to know.
There's an adapter that screws into the case that's some other thread but I don't know what that is. It shouldn't be a concern though unless you've destroyed the threads in teh case somehow, which although no doubt possible, is not likely.
The repair in the photo looks pretty decent actually. I've seen FAR worse attempts at a "fix" than that one. The tubing is just a little bit flattened but probably still works fine.
pretty good repair. done the same many times. but instead, to make it easier I just run only about 6-12" of new hard line then use proper trans hose for the middle of the span toward the other end. easier to get the hardlines in a good position and the length isn't critical.
you can use your flaring tool to create a 'bead' or ridge on the end of the line for the hose & clamp. Just only do the 1st part of the double flare where it bulges out some, but not too big a bulge. And, don't do the invert-the-flare part.
09-24-2011, 01:24 PM
