MattVette89

iTrader: (1)

Hey everyone, been reading through a lot of old threads, but still unclear on a few things. I'm far from a trans expert, so I thought I'd start a new thread.

Background: My car is an 89 Corvette with a 383 stroker. I built that a couple years ago. Old intake setup was a modified SLP/Edelbrock big mouth intake base. I had the trans built by a local guy because at 90,000 miles it was on its way out. I told him to build it for 400 hp. I think he did a decent job, but apparently the torque converter (from a local company) was not up to par. I had a 2400 stall in it along with a transgo 2+3 shift kit with the manual valve body option and the softer shift setting. I've run it for about 9,000 miles. I suspected there were torque converter problems in the last year due to the car revving up and not shifting while cold. I just used the manual shifting to alleviate that. Last week I finished my superram swap. Holy cow what a difference that made! An unfortunate result is the torque converter problems got worse, looks like it finally gave up the ghost. When I give it full throttle, it tachs up to about 4600-4800 rpms and barely goes. If I roll in the throttle gently, it hooks up and pulls like crazy. Also, when the od kicks in, the whole car will shake/stutter. A couple friends believe it's a broken sprag in the torque converter. Whatever it is, it's not right. It is now parked for the winter and I plan on having it rebuilt in the spring.

I plan on using a different builder who came highly recommended to me. He told me if I buy a rebuild kit, he will put anything I want in it. I would like to use items from ProBuilt as I respect Dana very highly from what I have read/seen on the boards. So on to my questions.

1) I believe the original valve body had certain portions drilled due to the transgo 2+3 shift kit. Will I require a new (used replacement) valve body?

2) What hard parts should I replace or reuse? I don't think any/many were replaced in the last rebuild.

3) I've heard of people upgrading to billet servos....are they worth it?

4) What rebuild kit is recommended for a daily driver / primarily street driven car with a semi-aggressive driving style? I don't really intend to shift over 5500 rpm very often.

5) Any other upgrades that are recommended?

5) Are there any reasonably priced performance torque converters in the 2400 stall range that you can recommend?

Thanks in advance to everyone who reads and responds

Matthew

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Hey Matt, I don't mean to sound like a squirt here, but you know this is a Camaro-Firebird forum?

MattVette89

iTrader: (1)

So I guess the superram I bought on here won't work on my Vette

No, joking aside I realize that. But you go where the knowledge is and the Vette and Camaros share a lot of similarities in the area of transmissions, especially when building the 700 to hold big power. This board gets a ton of traffic and I know there are guys on here that know their stuff. So I'm just looking to tap into that.

Matthew

Ps....you're always welcome to come by CorvetteGuru.com and check out our forum, whether you've got a Corvette question or not

MattVette89

iTrader: (1)

I'd also like to add I'd like to keep my parts budget including torque converter under $1,000 or $1,200 at most if possible.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

I here ya. There is a fella named Pro Built Automatics that is knowlegable about trannys, maybe pm him.

MattVette89

iTrader: (1)

Superram shot

MattVette89

iTrader: (1)

I've been to his site several times. Hoping he'll chime in here eventually.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Pro Built Automatics

Depending on what has been done to the motor, this will tell me on which build kit to use. Since you already have the TransGo 700-2-3 Shift kit I can add the other parts to it to make the shifts the way they should be at light throttle and at WOT. This will lower the price on the kit a little. Depending on how you drive, I will need to know the duration of the camshaft at .050" lift? The lobe centerline? Rear end gear ratio? Any head work.Weekend Warrior or Daily Driver? And how you drive? Conservative? Moderate? Moderately aggressive? Or aggressive? Let me know as I need this information for the stall on the torque converter. I would recommend the 9.5" lockup here. Call me if you want. 909 795-1876. Dana

MattVette89

iTrader: (1)

Hi Dana, I appreciate you responding so quickly.

Brief rundown on the motor:
-stock 89 350 bored and stroked to 383
-approx 10.5:1 compression
-edelbrock street heads with port/polish/bowl blend/valve job http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60879/
-comp cams 08-432-8 230/236 @.50 with .510/.520 110 LSA
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-432-8/
-dana 36 3.07 gear
-full superram base/runners/plenum/1000 cfm tb
-headers/dual LT4 exhaust

I drive this car everyday in the summer, 50 mile round trip daily. Most of that is mixed city/hwy traffic. Mostly 35-50 mph areas. I have a couple back roads where I open it up and play, but not too extreme and not every day. I might take this to the drag strip once a year. I previously had a 2400 stall which seemed to be ok, but I don't think it was a very good quality torque converter. I also used a b&m governor adjustment kit for the shift points because it was shifting so low when I first got it. Lots of trial and error to get it correct. I prefer to use the manual valve body option, though, and drive that way 99% of the time.

Wifey wants me to save up to buy the parts....I told her I already saved, it's called my bank account So I plan on acquiring everything over the winter and having it built in March/April of next year.

If it's easier to call you, I'll happily do that, I just don't want to take up your valuable time.

Thanks again,

Matthew

ZZ3 Z28

Gonna put this thread on my watch list...I'd like to see where this goes.


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ringo234

A good yank torque converter (3600 stall) will cost at least $500.

MattVette89

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tip! From your sig it sounds like you've got a real runner! How do you like that high of a stall? Is yours a dd or what?

ringo234

I never notice it unless I stomp on the pedal (feels similar to popping the clutch) and then it pulls so hard it fishtails. I have to back off a tad until it locks up then it goes like a bat out hell. I just went from 16x8" rims to 18x8" rims with new Nexen N3000 tires so I'll see if that helps but I think I need some type of race slicks when I go to the track if it ever reopens. I've never race on a track before so a little excited and nervous about it.

Pro Built Automatics

Sounds like you drive "moderate". With the camshaft you have here, the torque converter I would go with is a 2,800 rpm stall. The 9.5" Edge torque converter w/1 year warranty $555.00. The P. I. Vigilante w/5 year warranty & 2 year free stall exchange $799.00. Best is to build it full automatic with the option of over riding the governor that way you can hold any gear to any rpm when you want. You already have addressed the part throttle shift points. The build kit I would go with is the Street/Strip, unless you drive aggressively, or want it more bullet proof, then I would go with the Pro Street kit. Leave the 3.07's in there, just make sure that it is posi unit.

MattVette89

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Dana. I'll be in touch with you in the next couple months to order the kit.

Matthew

ImBrandon

Did you have your torque converter clutch replaced when you had your trans rebuilt? A bad torque converter clutch will make it drive terribly.

MattVette89

iTrader: (1)

Sorry but I'm slightly confused by your question. I don't see how you would replace only the torque converter clutch since it is internal to the converter. I did have a brand new torque converter installed that was built by a local company. That is what appears to have failed.

Matthew