I was cleaning my car this morning and when I stepped back to look at the amazing wax job I did () I noticed that the drivers side wheel sticks out further than the passenger side? OR that the passenger side sits in further than the driver's side, because I looked at it from the front and the front driver's wheel lines up with the rear driver's, BUT the front passenger wheel seems farther out than the rear passenger, so I'm starting to think that somehow the passenger side rear is inward more than it's supposed to be and I have not one single clue why. Sooooo..help me please.

 

I'll try and post pictures of it tomorrow to give you guys a better idea of what I'm dealing with.

 

Actually....That is a VERY common problem. Lowered cars have it worst but even stock height 3rd gens have it, just not as bad.

Search TGO for the problem & look up Adjustable Panhard Bars. Get one of those & you can set the rear end perfectly centered.

 

Oh thank god, I plan on swapping in a posi from a 4th gen in the next couple weeks so I guess I should order new panhard bars and lower control arms, too, huh? Haha

 

The APHB is only really needed if your trying to tuck wide tires. I tucked in 315s & without the APHB it woulda looked really dumb & not happened without the offset LCAs. But that is all because of how deep I wanted them to set in & not stick out one single bit. But the LCAs are not required just to center the rear end, just the APHB is required.

 

Yep. APHB and a tape measure and your golden.

 

I have two adjustable panhard bars for sale in the classifieds $50+ shipping all you need is bushings

 

Would it be difficult to install and adjust in my driveway? I'm assuming it's basically a bolt on and turn to adjust length, right?

 

Very simple to do, but I recommend getting an ON car adjustable one. I bought one that isn't so one end has to be pulled loose (mounting bolt out), loosen the jam nut, put back in, adjusted until the rear is centered, then pulled loose again, tighten the jam nut, then put back in place. Yes...It is as much of a PITA as it sounds like it is!

 

Yeah, I think I'll spend the extra $30 or so for the on-car adjustable, don't wanna have to go through all of that!

 

Oh wait.....Lemme rephrase it.

Mine is "on car adjustable" BUT.......The jam nut on one end ends up under the mount edge, so there is no way to get a wrench on the jam nut on one end, so it has to come loose to be adjusted. But...You do only have to do that 1 time, so it isn't that bad really. Just aggravated me that it wasn't as described when I bought it. The description has had the "on-car" part removed now. I wanted the rod ends so that there was zero deflection from bushings. Same thing for my LCAs.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=112

To be TRUELY on-car adjustable, it'd need to be like (the jam nuts away from the ends) & the rod end would have to be on the Drivers side to be able to access the jam nut......
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=111

I wanted rod ends on both ends, no poly bushings. And got mine before the Roto Joints existed, but IMHO I don't see the need for the Roto Joints flexibility anyways so.......Anyways.....

 

IMO, you are probably only going to adjust it once. 20 minutes of my time is worth saving the money.