Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

9 bolt friction cones

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Old May 17, 2013 | 06:49 PM
  #1  
TPI-Formula350-'s Avatar
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From: Long Island New York
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
9 bolt friction cones

I've been having an issue with my 9 bolt loosing posi traction. I think it's the friction cones being worn. I pulled the carrier today and removed the friction cones. The cones have wear marks, one about .010 and the other around .030. I have read I can have them machines? Do I just have then lathed down till the wear mark is removed then add shims to fill the depth of the machining?
here's the pics I just took of the cones.
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Old May 17, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #2  
Twin_Turbo's Avatar
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From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: 9 bolt friction cones

those are replacement cones that don't have the recess that the stockers have. Instead of machining the cones, have the 2 case halves machined, remove the ridge that is hitting the cones. This will leave you with thicker cones with more spline engagement. Do a search, there are topics here w/ pics of the process.
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Old May 17, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #3  
red rock's Avatar
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From: WI.
Car: 1987 iroc
Engine: 383 TPIS intake, Dyno Don headers
Transmission: 700R4 w/Pro-built Auto/transgo 2-3
Axle/Gears: 3.27/3.70 borg warner 9 bolt
Re: 9 bolt friction cones

What you need to do is have the bottom of the carrier machined. http://mpikas.blogspot.com/search?q=9+bolt+borg+warner Then reshim the cones. Or you can order new cones from,http://9bolt.com/
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Old May 18, 2013 | 09:30 AM
  #4  
TPI-Formula350-'s Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,644
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From: Long Island New York
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
Re: 9 bolt friction cones

Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
those are replacement cones that don't have the recess that the stockers have. Instead of machining the cones, have the 2 case halves machined, remove the ridge that is hitting the cones. This will leave you with thicker cones with more spline engagement. Do a search, there are topics here w/ pics of the process.
Thanks for the info. So being these frictions I have are after market, without the recess I need to have the entire ridge on both sides of the carrier removed 100% or just remove a certain amount from the ridge??? Should I also have the friction cones machines to clean up the area they made contact with the ridge on the carrier?? Then add shimes to fill in the difference from machining??? If I follow you correctly being the after market cones dont have the recess it bottoms out to fast on the ridge in the carrier??

I brought this rear off a guy on Craigslist who said he completely rebuilt it with parts from 9bolt.com( never used it after the rebuild). I've only put about 1500 miles on it and it has always had problems with the posi not locking all the time. I found this other thread with pics that you responded too. I looks like my cones must be new when looking at the difference on the sides of the cones he posted compared to the pics of mine
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-2-series.html

Last edited by TPI-Formula350-; May 18, 2013 at 09:35 AM.
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Old May 18, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #5  
red rock's Avatar
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From: WI.
Car: 1987 iroc
Engine: 383 TPIS intake, Dyno Don headers
Transmission: 700R4 w/Pro-built Auto/transgo 2-3
Axle/Gears: 3.27/3.70 borg warner 9 bolt
Re: 9 bolt friction cones

Your cones are fine, you don't need to machine them. Just machine the carrier halves ridge flush on the bottom. It cost me $30 to do it a few years ago. Then you will need to shim the top of the cone some to bring back the posi. The cones do most of the work on the sides of the cones, your just clearancing the bottom so you can make contact on the sides. Here is some more info. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...now-about.html
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Old May 18, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #6  
TPI-Formula350-'s Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,644
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From: Long Island New York
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
Re: 9 bolt friction cones

Originally Posted by red rock
Your cones are fine, you don't need to machine them. Just machine the carrier halves ridge flush on the bottom. It cost me $30 to do it a few years ago. Then you will need to shim the top of the cone some to bring back the posi. The cones do most of the work on the sides of the cones, your just clearancing the bottom so you can make contact on the sides. Here is some more info. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...now-about.html
Thanks a lot... I'll have the entire inner lip in the pic below machined level with the inner floor.
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Old May 18, 2013 | 08:27 PM
  #7  
TPI-Formula350-'s Avatar
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 4
From: Long Island New York
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
Re: 9 bolt friction cones

I have another question. After I remove that ridge and install the friction cone and then the spider gears I read i take out all play between the spider gears and friction cones. These friction cones are new so I'm not sure if I'll need to use any shims after correcting the ridge issue. If it turns out the cones end up sitting in the carrier deeper and I have play between the cones and spider gears which end of the friction cones do I install the shims? Between the spider gears and larger side of the cones or between the floor of the carrier and the smaller end of the friction cones?? Thanks
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Old May 18, 2013 | 08:48 PM
  #8  
red rock's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,591
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From: WI.
Car: 1987 iroc
Engine: 383 TPIS intake, Dyno Don headers
Transmission: 700R4 w/Pro-built Auto/transgo 2-3
Axle/Gears: 3.27/3.70 borg warner 9 bolt
Re: 9 bolt friction cones

Between the spider and the cone, your relieving the space on the bottom of the carrier so as the cone wears down it can move down in the carrier. Remember when putting the carrier all back together, to use the splines from the axle to line up the splines in the cones and the spider or you won't get the axle's back in the carrier when you get it in the rear end housing. Also, just a reminder, check your bearings before you install the carrier back in the housing. Just fallow everything in the link i sent you and you will be fine. I set mine up a little tight, but mine is not a daily driver.

Last edited by red rock; May 18, 2013 at 08:55 PM.
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