Replacing clutch on M39
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9 : ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.0L, TPI
Transmission: M39 : TRANSMISSION, MAN 5 SPD B0RG
Axle/Gears: GU4 : AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
Replacing clutch on M39
The wife and I went on a date night a few nights ago. And I thought I was being cool, by power-shifting the old Borg-Warner 5-speed. Needless to say, it started making a loud screeching noise as soon as I would push down the clutch. So I babied her home and started pricing out a new clutch. The '87 IROC-Z has over 150,000 showing for milage. So I figured it needed it, regardless of the racket coming from the bell housing. I found a kit for $100.
Dropping the old one hasn't given me much trouble, so far. I got a bunch of work done last night. Tonight I'll be working on the 6? bolts on the bell housing. The 3 bolts on the driver side of the bell gave me nightmare scenarios last night. Not really looking forward to breaking my fingers tonight.
Anyways, my big question is about the hydraulic clutch. I want to know, how to disconnect the hydraulics from the trans, in a careful manner...
Since I don't know what that entails. I was hoping someone in the forum could guide me through a proper way to disconnect the hydraulic [clutch-lever boot?] from the transmission.
Dropping the old one hasn't given me much trouble, so far. I got a bunch of work done last night. Tonight I'll be working on the 6? bolts on the bell housing. The 3 bolts on the driver side of the bell gave me nightmare scenarios last night. Not really looking forward to breaking my fingers tonight.
Anyways, my big question is about the hydraulic clutch. I want to know, how to disconnect the hydraulics from the trans, in a careful manner...
Since I don't know what that entails. I was hoping someone in the forum could guide me through a proper way to disconnect the hydraulic [clutch-lever boot?] from the transmission.
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9 : ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.0L, TPI
Transmission: M39 : TRANSMISSION, MAN 5 SPD B0RG
Axle/Gears: GU4 : AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
Re: Replacing clutch on M39
Everybody likes pictures...
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9 : ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.0L, TPI
Transmission: M39 : TRANSMISSION, MAN 5 SPD B0RG
Axle/Gears: GU4 : AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
Re: Replacing clutch on M39
I'm assuming that when I take out the two bolts on the bracket, the residual hydraulic pressure will push out the plunger. And I may not be able to push it back in without performing brain surgery. Or will the weight of the clutch pedal be the only pressure.
It would help if I even knew what the things proper name is...
Also, how important is it to have the flywheel machined?
It would help if I even knew what the things proper name is...
Also, how important is it to have the flywheel machined?
#4
Supreme Member
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 12,651
Likes: 0
Received 45 Likes
on
43 Posts
Car: 86 Trans Am, 92 Firebird
Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
Transmission: TKO600, T5
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3:70 trutac, 3:23 torsion
Re: Replacing clutch on M39
You will be able to compress the slave by hand to reassembly, don't worry about it, just do not depress the clutch pedal without having the slave bolted in position and connected to the fork or it will pop.
If the flywheel is not marred up or has heat spotting ect, you could get away without machining it. But new ones are so cheap its almost not worth the effort of machining it down if your paying a shop to do it.
If the flywheel is not marred up or has heat spotting ect, you could get away without machining it. But new ones are so cheap its almost not worth the effort of machining it down if your paying a shop to do it.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9 : ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.0L, TPI
Transmission: M39 : TRANSMISSION, MAN 5 SPD B0RG
Axle/Gears: GU4 : AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
Re: Replacing clutch on M39
You will be able to compress the slave by hand to reassembly, don't worry about it, just do not depress the clutch pedal without having the slave bolted in position and connected to the fork or it will pop.
If the flywheel is not marred up or has heat spotting ect, you could get away without machining it. But new ones are so cheap its almost not worth the effort of machining it down if your paying a shop to do it.
If the flywheel is not marred up or has heat spotting ect, you could get away without machining it. But new ones are so cheap its almost not worth the effort of machining it down if your paying a shop to do it.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9 : ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.0L, TPI
Transmission: M39 : TRANSMISSION, MAN 5 SPD B0RG
Axle/Gears: GU4 : AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
Re: Replacing clutch on M39
The bearing was busted in a hundred pieces. The flywheel had some spots on it, so I just brought it over to "Mr. Clutch" to resurface for $35.
I need the torque specs for the flywheel, and pressure plate, etc. if anyone knows them. I haven't been able to find any decent service manuals to help me out.
I need the torque specs for the flywheel, and pressure plate, etc. if anyone knows them. I haven't been able to find any decent service manuals to help me out.
Last edited by I_Ryan; 06-03-2013 at 05:13 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
db057
TBI
10
08-11-2015 10:11 PM
rsrmoore
Transmissions and Drivetrain
1
08-07-2015 08:44 PM