ok so the tags on the t5 say its a 1986 firebird trans, 2nd gear was hard going into, plus it was leaking, and the bearing were shot so im in the middle of a rebuild till I saw these, and now I need some answers. (ignore the "rust" spots, its from the water when I cleaned them off, ill be rubbing those away with carb cleaner b4 reassembly)

ugh gona have to muti post the images so bare with it.

1st image is of case cover off
2nd is of main case (empty) looks good but has nicks at some opening, thinking just sand them a little and good?
3rd is the tail housing, not sure if you can see them but the bottom appears to have a bunch of cracks (or stress marks) but none of them go though the case. so is it usable still?

 

these are the gears, no idea which ones are which >.> but anywas if you can see all the gears "upper" teeth are rounded, is that normal and reuseable? (the teeth on the top of the gears, the smaller set)

also in the 1st picture anyone know what those gears are with the straight teeth? they both have chips missing and need replacement.

 

scyro rings I believe these are, if you can see the tips of the teeth are also rounded, both sides, but one side looks smooth like it came that way but the other side looks rough.

 

post #3, first picture, top slider ring, replace that; the others are cool.

 

post #2, first picture, top slider ring, take a better picture.

post #2, first picture, right hand straight cut gear is the reverse idler gear. I have a new one, PM me if you need it. http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/it...32/3532149.htm

 

They all look completely fine to me.

Worst thing I see really, is the reverse gear; looks like some numbskull n00b didn't put it into a forward gear before reverse ALOT, and instead just jammed it in while grinding; pretty typical unfortunately. But not beyond re-use.

All the shifting teeth on the gears and on the inside of the sleeves look fine.

Didn't see any of the blocker rings (what people usually call "synchros"); they're brass. But from the looks of the rest of it they're OK too. In fact I've only had to replace those once or maybe twice. Yours are probably OK.

The features in the casting are a non-issue.

The ONE THING I'd be looking at the most, if that was mine, is how the clutch gear and countergear teeth meshed.

 

I pmd u jmd and ill get a better pic.

sofakingdom I have a master rebuild kit so I have new synchros/blockers but you are right they didn't look bad at all. ill check the teeth bc it was hard going into 2nd, and only 2nd.

btw im that numbskull n00b >.> would usally just go from what ever gear I was in, or neutral, into reverse. never grinded went in smooth every time. I have learned the proper way tho but the damage appearently was done.

 

Hey, we're all born not knowing stuff like that; it's important to keep on learning as we go, and not make the same mistakes over and over. Glad you got it figured out.

 

ok so other then reverse gear should I replace anything else? money is getting really tight fast , but if I must replace something I will.

btw since the syncho looked fine for 2nd gear, ideas on why is was hard to shift into only 2nd gear?

and finally (so id ont tear up reverse anymore) I go from 1st to reverse? or how am I suppose to go into reverse

 

The "kit" will have most of what it needs in it; but there's a coupla little tiny detail items that make a BIG difference: the "keys" (about ¾" long and ¼" square, under the synchro sleeves) and the little plastic pads on the shift forks.

I'd suspect, the clutch; especially if it was tough to shift into first also with the car moving. There's NOTHING about a transmission that can possibly cause it to be "hard to shift". Grind, yes; hard, no. It's simply not possible for the trans to be the cause.

1st first is fine. Any forward gear at all first, will do the same thing. Remember, if the engine is running and the clutch is out, the guts of the trans are spinning, but the mainshaft is sitting still if the car is sitting still; meaning, when you go to shift it into reverse, the guts need to be stopped before hitting R, otherwise the un-synchronized R gears will just eat each other until the engine side of them finally comes to rest. All the forward gears have synchronizers and will stop the spinning gracefully, thereby permitting R to operate free of pain.

 

ya the kit I have has those, came with plastic inserts tho :/

clutch is new, about 1k miles on it. has been wearing even and everything is as tight as it should be. same for the pressure plate.

the trans has never ever grind and its only 2nd gear. not 1st not 3rd not even reverse, only 2nd gear. does not pop out shifts out smooth. shifts smooth into every other gear but you have to "slam" the shifter into 2nd to make it shift, moving or standing still. why im puzzled by it. if it wasn't apart I would show you.

ok I understand the shifting into reverse now.