So to summarize just completing my hsr swap/build and in the process of having the motor and trans out i replaced clutch and tob...everything is back in car and my t5 trans shifts fine while engine off but as soon as i start up i cant shift into gears....

Now i can drive car in 1st gear if in gear while the engine is off...but cant shift to another gear once started

Ive read thru some posts on tgo and am somewhat confused on where to start looking...ive seen some issues related to pilot bearing...or clutch fork...or clutch issues...or bleeding issues????

ive realized so far the clutch stays engaged when the engine is running bc ill press clutch down and car still creeps foward while in gear

Also, Bleed system based of tgo article....feel like ive done this right

Any help??? Thanks in advance

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...175-post8.html

 

Does the trans have to come out to check this??? Can u adjust it outside the bellhousing??? Tnx btw!!! Saw this just planning what do to when i can work on it again

 

Yes

No

 

Grrrrr....thanks sofa another project another day

 

Yup I installed the throw out bearing wrong once, I have had tranny's in and out of 3 Rd gens many times, I Never though I installed it wrong, I replaced Master/Slave thinking that was issue, Finaly pulled it back out and there it was plane as day what I had done. At least they come out easy.

 

True just a pain when u wanna start driving after the car sat for months!!!! Cant wait to tear up some pavement with my new setup lol

 

Goes to show you can't believe everything you read and you can't learn much while hanging-out on a Sofa !


Yes,... The T/O bearing can be re-set on the fork without removing the entire transmission.


I corrected a misplaced TO Bearing without removing the transmission years back It wasn't easy - but I did it. ( That's how I learned there was a right way and a wrong way to installed the dam thing ! ) It was back in 06' but IIRC The trick was to break the fork free from the pivot bolt that's screwed into the bellhousing.




By first removing the lower hydraulics and rubber boot you can get a little window into the clutch. From here you can knock the fork "kinda' off the pivot bolt - but it will not come free enough to 'clear' the pivot bolt at this point. So; get an Allen wrench and remove the pivot bolt as far as possible from the bellhousing. ( I don't think it will come completely out )

Once the pivot bolt is backed out there is JUST enough room to free the fork from it. The TO bearing needs to be adjusted/held ( somehow ) in place so that the fork can be pushed back onto it properly. Once the T/O is on right, re-install all the parts you removed.

If the tranny is COMPLETELY installed already - try it. At this point you've got nothing to loose !

 

Awsome!!! Ill look maybe ill get lucky and reposition it on...however sofas been dead on everytime lol...its worth a shot tnx man

 

Depends on the particular parts you have, as to whether that will work. It might, just like I know a guy that was skydiving one day and his parachute failed to open; and he survived!!! But that doesn't mean I now go on skydiving forums and call people who advise using a parachute when skydiving a bunch of names.

Given that it only takes a coupla minutes to jerk the trans out and stab it back in anyway, there's very little labor to "save", even if the "shortcut" does work. And of course if it doesn't then you just get to do some extra work that you wouldn't have had to do if you hadn't tried to get out of doing the work in the first place.

 

I don't have a problem with that method except:
Bending the fork clip tongs outwards tends to leave them bent a bit.

 

Might have been 7 years ago. but I still TOTALLY remember the wave of relief that fell over me as the T/O bearing fell properly into place on the fork. Why; because that meant I didn't need to pull the whole tranny again !

Since the hydraulics need to come off anyway so the ONLY 'extra' work is putting an Allen wrench on 1 (the pivot ) bolt.

On the other hand the list of things that DON'T need to be removed is quite long if the tranny is fully installed. Just removing the shifter from the case - again - is 'more work' then removing 1 pivot bolt. ( + the risk of damaging soft Aluminum threads. )

It wasn't easy; I had to figure it out as I went. I found that the 'trick' to freeing up the fork is to back out the pivot bolt. Sure - it took some to to get teh T/O bearing and fork aligned and set-correctly once teh fork was freed up, and still easier than pulling a tranny. I also hold to the belief that If I could do it; anyone can. It's easy to pass on what you heard or what the 'book says'........ It's another thing to actually DO SOMETHING and explain the experience to another. Just 'cause you can't - or didn't - do it yourself ( yet ) doesn't mean it can't be done.

 

been working pass couple days but ill update...but appreciate all answers...thanks guys...will get to tackle this Friday...hopefully have the car cruising by Saturday!!!

 

ok just took out trans and repositioned tob since it was incorrectly installed....no more creeping forward while in neutral...thanks guys

now I still cant shift while engine running...is this a bleeding issue now??? thanks

 

Probably not "bleeding", unless you opened up the hydraulics somewhere along the way and let in air; drive the car for a bit and see if it gets better.

 

Easy enough...will do...thanks sofa

 

update: after 20 min of driving its already shifting better...still have to shut off...put in gear...and then start up again (more so when I have to go in reverse)...but theres moments now its actually letting me shift now...finally!!!!

Anyways, assuming this is progressing to better, I will thank everyone for helping me out ... and hopefully this is the end of thread

so lesson learned: watch that TOB!!!!

 

hopefully I can still get some help...my car still gives me probs shifting....

it shifts easy when the car is off and when I drive accelerating it shifts fine upwards...but shifting downwards is a task...sometimes wont shift in gear at all and I have to restart car with it in gear...also if I don't start the car in gear its not gona shift in gear once started....any ideas??? thanks in advance

 

Sounds like the clutch isn't engaging and your "power shifting"......


My best guess is the T/O Bearing or the Hydraulics.

 

I agree either Bearing still isn't right or you have a bad master/slave or air in the lines.

 

is there anyway to check my slave or master cyl is bad??? My slave pushes in/out fine...is it worth to replace? COuld an aftermarket clutch be the culprit also??? ram clutch thanks for the help

also bleed system again and sould be right...made sure I bleed slave as well

 

How are you bleeding the system? How does the pedal feel? Are you sure the bearing is on correct? Fork and ball all lined up?

 

^Bleeding system based on tech article... one man holding down clutch while person 2 opens the bleeder screw, repeating this ten times and then bleeding slave cylinder once by pushing fork down all the way against slave cylinder then opening bleeder screw and then person 2 holds down clutch after this happens and then person one closes bleeder screw.
The pedal feels the same way it did before I took it apart...pedal has resistance and feels normal to me.
I aligned the bearing with the clutch fork and it seemed pretty basic. My only concern is when I put back the tranny, the shaft may have displaced the bearing off of the fork again while installing trans to engine since the bearing hole doesn't align exact with the engine. Is this a common problem for the bearing to be displaced?
As far as the pivot ball and fork, the ball goes into the groove of the fork and when looking at the fork, it looks perpendicular to the bell housing.
Thanks to everyone for your help! Just want to get on the road.

 

I would make sure the clutch is bled right.
If still a No go and I was going to pull the trans back out, do it right, Replace the Fork and the Ball if they have been in there a while.
I would also replace the Pilot Bushing with a Pilot Bearing.
If the Throw out bearing is old Id Replace it also, make sure it is seated on the fork right there are tabs on the fork along with the fork it self make sure its correct.


Check out these links,
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...inder-but.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-cylinder.html

 

thanks blackz,

so took out trans notice tob was off fork again...this time when I installed trans I made sure the fork was pushed on the tob before I bolted everything up...still a no go...

im hesitant to replace pilot bushing and bearing just bc it was fine before I pulled trans the first time...tob is new with new clutch and pp...any other ideas??? not sure where to go from here

 

If you didn't replace them with the clutch I would def do that, I always throw a knew ones in when doing it. Is the bearing on the right side of the tabs? This all started when you put the new clutch in? I know it sucks but maybe throw the old clutch in and see if its better, then at least you will know if your new one is the problem.

 

Thanks blackz...ill have to rip it down and start again...ill update this thread

 

A fork shouldn't be off the throwout bearing unless
- you mean the spring tangs were out. Back to what I said in my second post in here, which is a sprung clip is bad news.
- the fork is the wrong one; the wrong one has the ballstud pocket located differently which would push the fork out of the bell a little bit, allowing the fork out of the TOB.

If the fork had no issues before, maybe the spring clip is bad and needs re-bent or the fork replaced.

It's tough to tell. You didn't give a whole lot of detail on your last post, nor pictures, so the help you're asking for it going to be accordingly limited.

 

Sorry for no photos heres one i took yesterday after pulling trans...i put the fork back on bearing and reinstalled...is the fork suppose to ride close to bearing at all times??? Reason i ask is as soon as i installed trans back on i feel the fork pops off bearing again...

as of now I have the car jacked up on all fours, and I have been messing around with the fork and pivot ball and noticed when I pulled the fork more outwards (from the bellhousing) all of sudden I can shift when engine runs (a little tough but do-able), however now the back wheels spin in gear even when clutch pedal is fully pressed down...so cutch now is not disengaging

Appreciate the help and feedback!!!...on my next day off ill pull trans and replace fork, ball, etc

 

UPDATE:

put in stock clutch and PP....driving!!!! thanks blackZ ... No probs what so ever

thanks everyone for trying to help me figure this out

 

Congrats, Now I would send that clutch back, if it is new and explain the issue. Do you have pic's of the clutch you took out? Does anything look wrong?

 

sorry for late reply...the only thing different I noticed was the TOBs where different....our stockers have a second lip on the small side of the bearing (side facing the transmission) vs the ram TOB has no lip ..heres pics of each ram being the second pic

....no pics of clutch ...in the process of sending back..not sure if they'll refund or not ....thanks again blackz!!!

 

Well Glad it is working, Id throw a Center force in there if I was you.