Trans guy is trying to convince me none of the aftermarket LTx clutches are the right height, thus giving shifting issues, slave failures, so on. Dared me to take my Centerforce DF to the local auto pts and compare height of clutcha nd TO bearing to a stocker " That will tell you what you need to know".

I am going to send this back to CF and have them inspect it but he did pique my curiosity. Going to compare for the hell of it.

Guy put a McCleod RSX in a C3 Vette T56 trans stiff going into gear checked the usual stuff. Put a stock one in worked like butter.

I just see how one will hold up to my motor

Maybe someone knows.. or has run a good amount of power through one? Said Sachs was making them for GM if you can find them avoid PowerTech?

I dont want to spend a ton on another clutch if its going to give fits nor do I want to "try" one out but shoot if it held....if it didnt Ireturn it .

Thoughts?

 

I believe we already addressed the "what to do if the total height is excessive" issue on the Valeo clutches in recent, prior posts. Changing clutches is a last resort, not the first. Ask him why there are a number of legit ballstud height changes available for an antique 621 etc. bellhousing, but he hasn't tried adjusting it on an LT1 T56.

There are a lot of material options out there; it's an 11" disc., and the PP won't be a super-high pressure rating. Other than not being able to make the mistake Hays made decades ago with using too highly sprung a pressure plate, it's just a sprung disc. clutch, and yours should be fine with a quality disc.

 

Using a CF dual friction

Went to Oreillys a minute ago and looked at a Sachs LT1 stock replacement. had the to bearing attached like mine

Flipped them both over sitting on the TO bearing and mine was noticebly higher. Plus my disc is thicker. Wondering if Centerforce compensated for that with their flywheel

Im thinking this slave is damn near overextending itself just to disengage. Bet theres 1/8 in difference or more

Thoughts?

(Guys vette had a T56 conversion fwiw)

Just trying to find the root of the problem rather than throw parts at it and wait for it to happen again.

Ill call Sachs and see if they make a better disc....just dont think it would hold up to what Id be putting it through. Maybe theres a cost effective solution tell ya what Ill be damned if im gonna pay $900 for another clutch thats now made in China.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...e-leaking.html

Back to basics on diagnosis; you have a clutch release issue. But a bone stock, new and unmodified 1996 F-body does not. So: what changed?

If the flywheel / clutch assy. is .125" taller, but the fork pivot is moved (run a block plate, and / or mill the fork pivot tee to achieve a total .125" then things should work fine. Unless the clutch itself requires more PP finger travel for release. Which shouldn't be an issue, given the use of the same PP across most clutches.

I would have solved this before dropping it off with "stock clutch guy." You only need to replicate a functional working example in order for it to be fixed. You have 3 variables. Assembly height of the clutch & flywheel. disc thickness And hydraulics. The rest is the same.

I have had multiple positive experiences taking a clutch to a brake & clutch exchange place (that usually works on truck brake shoes & clutch discs) and having a still-good disc. rebuilt. Pick their brain; if you want a bad disc lined so it's no thicker than a stock one, that's what you should ask for; it would simplify troubleshooting.

 

Point taken. I am running a Mc Cleod scattershield which uses a block protector, will double check that also. I do have my stock bellhousing but wont be able to run at the track with it. Could be another culprit...

Once you go away from stock.....

 

If you have a block plate in there, you have to compensate for it somehow.
Maybe move the pivot out .125 (closer to the clutch)

The disc thickness should be around .330-.335

 

He has the opposite dimensional problem Don.
Prior threads: Clutch release not happening before grinding the fork against the PP.

 

I ordered a new fork just to do it.
Fluted pilot bearing from Gm
Ordered new 12559912 slave

Going to put it all back together with stock slave no threading of the rod this time just to see how it all sits/acts go from there.

Not sure best way to compensate on the throw
Maybe get another TO bearing and tack the difference on the lip where the fork contacts?

Called Centerforce and they said laying the 2 pressure plates side by side means nothing as the fingers go in at different angles unmounted which hes right. so that theory is out the window.

Know I could put tthe stock bellhousing with no block saver on just dont think its a good idea as I plan to drag race it and in case of a failure... Have to measure all I guess. Keep you guys posted thanks for the input .

I did call Sachs who have a rep for good clutches and what they sell are pretty much OE stuff so the stocker is out for me Id smoke it right away.

They sold their "good stuff" to a company called Southbend

 

Trans overall looked decent some wear on 1 and 2 synchros
Beaings good but not mint
Much as I cant afford it gonna sell some stuff and have it all redone with carbon synchros billet keys bearings the works. Tired of it not shifting like butter. Now to find $1200
Or spend 200 put it back together and run it til something else lets loose in it.

Haivng the clutch tested I think its fine.
Should it not be a local guy builds his own performance clutch packages for about $300. Well see. Im not paying $800 for a friggin clutch
Cant take anything apart without spending more than I really should. lol OCD