In a 67 A body alll F body pieces for the most part

Trans is getting hard to put in gear
Adjusted the throw near the pedal so it pushes farther
At that point can hear the fork touching the pp bolts but goes into gear easy
Back it off where it should be (fork not getting over extended) and car gives a little jerk gonig into first

Could this be the slave leaking internally by chance?
Slave is super old put it in 15 yrs ago. 200 mi on it

Good place to buy a new Delco piece heard they were discontinued.

 

If the slave is leaking, it's going past the piston and pulling back the boot would show the wetness if it hasn't leaked out already.

The fork grinding the PP is a geometry issue. Without going into too much detail, a too-tall flywheel / pressure plate stack can cause it, and a lowering of the fork against the trans. can fix it. Additionally, too much fork throw can cause it and a reduction in pedal travel (or equivalent reduction in motion by a larger bore slave cylinder) can fix that.

More here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ork-maybe.html

In your case, you might be close to good by reducing the adjustment you made.

 

Played with the adjustment and just sitting in the garage-
Where the trans can finally start to engage Ok you can hear the fork touching something, not good. Adjusted the rod back where it was working well and first was a lil tough to get into gear feltt eh car move which is telling me (I hope)
that the slave is leaking internally somewhere. Its only got a few hundred miles on it but is an original Ive had on there since the late 90s.

My geometry on the clutch pedal is decent goes straight in however when the pedal is almost all the way down it forces the rod up a touch. I dont know how to eiliminate that maybe its killing the seal early?!

Hope theres no other damage done not in a hurry to pull this trans...again.

 

The geometry into the master cylinder is irrelevant. Pull it apart; you'll see the round end of the rod presses on the top of the master cylinder piston and you can put tens of thousands of miles on one that many would say has the "wrong angle." You simply cannot **** that tall-height piston in the bore with a rod that can go only so many degrees from straight.

Let me say instead of it being a geometry issue, it's a ratio issue. Going back to basics: If your fork/fulcrum are stock 93-97 F, and you have a stock 93-97 F slave, then your master bore and pedal throw need to either be stock, or if one is altered (bigger or smaller bore,) the other must be (shorter or longer throw.)

Sorry to hear you're barely on the edge of "fixed" with backing off the adjustment.

I'm not necessarily a fan of jumping into parts swapping to fix a problem, but I also don't think the Cavalier slave is a bad solution for "why not / $" effort value.

When this is all said and done, you'll be putting some miles on, I hope.

 

I got my slave from the dealer cost me about $100

 

Good price!!

local dealer wanted 244 told him GM parts direct are 125
He came down to cost plus 10, 134.00 + tax

Probably easier to pick one up there
Ill mod it put it in...if alls well great

If not Ill sell this and my new T56 spare and pick up a tricked out one with the z06 gearing custom 6th and the mech speedo houseing. Well see

Was hoping to get this to the track in 2 weks..finally. Always apart for some reason. lol

 

Slave is out cant see any signs of external linkage.
Vintage from mid 90s go figure

Clutch fork moves back and forth quite a bit
I remember a slight bit of play when putting it in but the fork seemed positioned more towards the rear of the spacer meaning rear of car then.
Flops back all the way on its own now

Wondering if I busted the TO bearing when I gave the pedal some extrqa throw the other night (when you could hear the fork hit the PP bolts)

This throw/geometry thing has plauged me since day 1.....

Thoughts?

 

Doubt it. Stick a mirror in there and see; the round style should be very obvious if bent / busted. The square, nearly as much.

You've tried the pedal adjustment. Now it's milled-tee or Cav. slave swap time. I'm not sure which though.

 

milled tee meaning? Sorry been up for 21 hrs lol

Concerned about the clutch fork being able to flop all the way back and forth doesnt seem right. Hope to tear it down tomorrow. Use the mirror thing first

 

The fork is always sloppy feeling on the pivot-tee.

Milling the tee to bring the fork closer to the trans. would release the clutch sooner, and before it ground into the PP edge. Not sure how much people are doing; I haven't resorted to it.

But I do know that a .100" thick balancer plate (tried to use a neutral balance flywheel with a 400 SBC) will cause the fork grind.

 

Appreciate the feedback pulling the trans is the last thing I want to do

Super tght fit on the tunnel I should have raised it but the interiors all new so-

Hopefully maybe tomorrow I can do a 2 hr thrash get it out
May as well have the synchros checked, bearings etc....wow where will this one end. I smell another 1000 gone.

 

If you are going to have it rebuilt, I suggest TDP. The stage 2 kit is a no brainer.
http://www.texasdrivetrainperformanc...hp/t56-6-speed

If you purchase the Delco slave, I would suggest fastening it to the hose with something more than a slotted pin. Mine exploded on me because the pin fell out. A lot easier to fix on the bench before hand...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...p-4th-gen.html

 

How fragile are 67 engine mounts if you watch out for the dist. cap and tilt things so you can pull the trans. down?

If you don't have someone local and can get it to Phx., I can do internal trans. work. I meant to talk to you offline re: Z06 gearing.

 

I use the pst mounts they are pretty sturdy good idea on that
Maybe if I pull the mount bolt back 1/2 way out that might be enough


Id love to have the z06 gearing and a lower 6th gear matter of what it costs, shoot me a pm

Will probably try another Delco slave. Looks like this one was extending just over an inch the whole time
Supposedly 7/8-1" is the suggested range 15/16 GM spec?
I dont have a tab mount on my pedal just a hole not sure Ill have to mess with it
Call Centerforce to see what the range is on their TO bearing. May have been overextending it the entire time and not been aware. Bummer is when I bought this it was alll still USA made Centerforce stuffs all made in China now. Oh well.

Hoping to pull it in the morning after work we will see

 

Ok master up top has 1in travel before it bottoms out and hits the clip which blows these. Probably whats happening to all us that get the PP grinding noise.

There is a hair over 2" on the lower slave that the piston can travel before bottoming out.

JMD...agreed larger bore upper would be the ticket

Took that lower pushrod and increased its length by via welding/lathe .200 to start. Wondering if all that would do is preload the PP too much or just push fluid out the top?

Would the master still want to push the rod the same distance as the stocker? Then I could be more conservative on the pedal throw. Just thinking out loud.

 

Got it to engage need to readjust

either this trans was put together way too tight or my clutch could be weak. Not happy too tough to get in gear for my liking. Feels like crap

 

Think the disc has a slight tweak to it

PP is disengaging the proper amount which according to Centerforce is about .030 +-. If the disc isnt absoutely perfect it can cause this issue makes sense.

One more try before it all comes apart again.
Gonna beat this thing

 

Think I got it
Ill post up when I actually drive it. Or not

 

Hope so.

 

no runs tonight. Trying to make more headway on a SR for a member here had it WAY too long. Poor guy probably wants to hang me by the short ones by now.

 

Finally drove it for about 10 mi this morning noone on the road!! Seems to work well so far. Have to put more miles on it but have a feeling its time to put the DS loop on thats been sitting here and go abuse this thing. TIred of working on it

Think the 2 biggest things was an old slave that was probably taking on some air
and completely redoing the geometry of the master to get it "right" took some work.

Now back to grinding I am SO far behind...

JMD and all thanks for the help and tips I was ready to take it all back apart when initially I could not get it in gear

Spoke with ZF DOC and insisted I need to keep slowly giving the pedal half pumps to bleed the "sealed-prebled" unit. Did not make sense to me

Then with the motor off, clutch in go up and down through the gates 7-8 times and lined everything up as it was taken apart. I still dont see where the logic is
like I said was ready to rip it apart

But it worked. Pedal got super firm and slipped into gear right away grabs better than ever. Hmm. once a noob always a noob lol