Hey everyone, I'm gonna attempt to rebuild my t5(non-world class) and today the goal was to remove it and tomorrow get into the tranny itself. Anyways I thought I was done unbolting it From the bell housing and tranny mount and now it's just semi hanging, do I just pull back on it so the main shaft will slid out the bell housing or is there another step, the drive shaft is off too of course, but what's the proper way to remove it?

 

Shifter is off and you have all 4 trans to BH bolts out? Sometimes the large boss on the trans seizes itself to the bellhousing. Is the trans loose-ish, or is it still tight?

 

The only thing I neglected to do was remove the shifter -.- but besides that yes sir all 4 are out, i can rotate it and slightly move it back and forth

 

Then pull it out!

 

Slave cylinder is off?

 

Lol! Okay I was scared to for some reason, just double checking And no it's not, the line is removed that leads to the tranny, but do I need to remove the slave cylinder in order to pull the tranny?

 

I don't know if it interferes with removal, but take it off anyway to give yourself more wiggle room at installation time. Should have left the line on, now you have to bleed it. No harm really anyway, brake fluid goes bad just from age so now you will have a good reason to completely flush and fill with fresh fluid.

 

I don't see any mention of removing the torque arm, but since it's in the way of removing the driveshaft, I'm gonna assume you removed it. Remove the crossmember too if you haven't already, then just lift up slightly on it and slide it out. You have to pull far enough rear wards to pull the main shaft out of the clutch assembly and bellhousing. The trans weighs around 70 pounds or so, IIRC, so it takes some wiggling.

 

Thanks guys! I'll get back with y'all tomorrow and yea the torque arm was removed as well as the cross member��

 

Hey iv'e gotten the tranny off, when im done tearing into in is there any advice needed when going back with it? should it just slid in the bellhousing with a little effort, or is there a special way to do it?

 

If you don't touch the clutch, it should go in easy.

 

You'll probably have to rotate the trans a bit in order to get the splines on the input shaft to match up to the clutch disc. Speaking of the clutch disc, now is the perfect time to inspect it to make sure it doesn't need replaced. Better to find out now, than 2 months after you put it all back together.

I. Would also recommended bolting the torque arm in place on the tail of the trans before reinstalling the trans. Putting the top torque arm mount bolt in place on my T5 after it was installed was the biggest PITA I have EVER come across in 25 years of working on cars. Makes the rear header bolt problems everyone complains about on here seem like something a baby could do in comparison. I quickly lost count of how many new curse words and combinations of them I came up with that night.

 

The clutch was pushed in maybe a couple times at most? Or we're you referring to actually removing the clutch?

 

If you released the clutch while the trans was in, no problem. If you pushed it when the trans was out, you will have to ensure the disc is concentric with the pilot bearing before you stick the trans back in.

 

Is there anyway to know that I'm doing that right?? cause if I do recall I did press it in with the tranny off-.-

 

Get a clutch alignment tool, they are just cheap plastic. So cheap that they give you one with a new clutch. I have set the clutch on centre by eye, but don't count on getting lucky using that method.

 

I have a question, when I was trying to reinstall the tranny moved freely in neutral, but when I tried putting it back in its stuck as if it's in gear? But yet it's in neutral in the shifter, and if I remove it, it moves freely again

 

Assuming you currently have it out, try turning the input shaft and see if the output shaft moves. If it does, it's in gear. Most likely 4th gear.

If the trans is in the car, shift it into second and see if it turns freely. If it does, same issue as above.

I had the same issue after I rebuilt mine. Turned out I didn't have the shifter block pushed onto the shift rail far enough and when I drove the roll pin in place it went in behind the shift rail instead of through it. That pushes the rail far enough forward that 4th gear looks like neutral, second gear becomes neutral, and 4th doesn't work.

 

no it gets stuck into gear, I put in into first drive shaft doesn't moves, take it out, moves with the input shaft, shift into second, the driveshaft locks up into gear, all do the same exept 5th, I can't feel that gear catch?

 

Not sure I read your post right, but it sounds like both the input and output(drive) shafts rotate when you have trans in neutral? They should turn independently when the trans is in neutral. They should only turn together when the trans is in gear.

Can you put it into reverse?

Can you see the end of the shift rail sticking out the rear of the shift block just a little?

 

I ended up finding out the shift actuator broke, and it was set in 5th gear