Here are my questions before you read (thanks in advance for any replies).
1. How difficult is the fix if one
2. What is a recommendation for a manual shift point 1-2 shifts, 2-3 shifts.

*** has the original "kickdown" (tv) cable.*** and yes it is adjusted correctly.
Edit ***possibly a fuel related issue? The cable to the footpedal is full throttle, but is it possible not enough fuel is getting dumped in? We have messed with tuning a little bit does not seem to solve anything.**

Before my transmission pulled to 65-66 mph before shifting to third from second. I have since swaped for a mild built 700r4 and unknown statistics on old tranny, all I know it has been rebuilt mid 90's and it had shifted just as hard (Chirped 1-2 easy, same with new trans).
Now, my 1-2 shifts are mildly affected but I do see a difference when it auto shifts 2-3 at 4,400-4,500 rpm and 59-60 mph(before 65 mph), whereas 1-2 shifts closer 4,700-4,900. It will not downshift into 2nd at 55+, which is annoyingly slow.
I originally had a 1600 stall, 69 corvette cam, 305 original manifolds and exhaust, and upgrading those parts did nothing with shift points so I assume it's in the transmission.

I have all new parts in my engine. Everything is new, pistons, etc. I do not know the compression ratio.

-357
-Comp cams Xtreme energy cam 12-262-4
-69 Corvette double hump heads
-Edelbrock performer Rpm air gap intake
-650 Holley vacuum secondary
-1.5 rockers
-2500 stall Hughes torque converter
-Hooker Super Comp Headers 3 in.
-Hooker Y-pipe 3-2.5 in.
-Custom 2.5 exhaust, small cat, y-pipe to 2, 10" glasspacks rear.

This is what the company has to say about the rebuilt tranny I purchased.

Transmission
-700R4
-Corvette servoStage 1 shift kit
-Complete bushing kit
-Heavy duty clutch packs
-Updated sun shell
-Heavy duty band
-Hardened pump rings
-Teflon pump bushing
-10 vane pump
-Shift kit street strip
-500 boost valve
-No electronics or wiring needed
-(optional)550 HP

I can only assume my engine has more in it. I have had upgraded it with the new cam, headers, etc and I definitely notice the power difference.
-Thanks in advance.

 

Your combo seems to me like the ideal candidate for a governor swap. The '85-up 2.8L governor gives WOT upshifts around 5100 RPM with 3.42s, your 3.23s may well push that to 5200-5300, and that cam should be peaking around 5000 with those non-Vortec heads.

 

Today I did a 20-65 pull. 2-3 shift at 4,100. Probably more accurate then my previous numbers.

 

How would I do that? And where do I get the part?

 

You can also buy the B&M gov kit and set your shift points to what ever you want them.

I have the B&M governor re-cal kit in my th-400 and have WOT up shifts set for 6400 rpm.

Here's some info on how to do it. http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...vi_9-bm-1.html

 

The B&M kit is a hassle. Plus it's also entirely trial-and-error. But if you want to get it dialed in at the dragstrip, then it's the better option.
Finding a used 2.8 governor at the salvage yard is quicker, easier, and cheaper, but will get you closer than you are now.

 

You could try one of these new Governor from bowtie overdrives

V6 governor 5,500rpm - 5,800rpm wot shift point http://bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/...hp?ITEMID=7006

Corvette governor 6,000rpm - 6,600rpm wot shift point
http://bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/...hp?ITEMID=7010

 

So if I still have my original transmission with a higher gov I could do that swap too?

If I was to get a gov, let's say 5,500-5,800 for example, would it hold wot until those rpms even if it did not need to / loosing power? I don't wanna blow my engine either.

 

Tre, something to keep in mind, the advertisements for shifts points on those governors are for wide open throttle shifts. part throttle acceleration is going to be lower.