I'm having some kickdown, early shift issues so I did a pressure check...
@ 750 RPM / P = 75, R = 120, N, OD, D = 75, 2nd = 170, 1st = 160. These appear right or close according to my manual, anyone know what the pressures would be with the .500 & .296 boost valves? Trans was rebuilt years ago (low mileage) but I don't know if they were installed. My other concern is that the pressure at idle doesn't immediately jump when the TV cable is pulled, it takes 1/2" of travel for it to jump. I'm going to change my TV spring and valve, anything else that I should be looking at?

 

Make sure that at WOT the plunger is pushed all the way in when you have the pan off. If you have made any changes in the intake system, then you should check the geometry at the carburetor or injection to see if it is still correct. The geometry is critical here. Then check pressures again at different throttle openings when driving it. I always install the TransGo throttle valve setup in the valve body to get the most response from the TV cable when moved. This requires the valve body to be dropped though. Try doing what I suggested up above first and that should most likely solve this.

 

I actually posted a similar question on your Probuilt website...was hoping you'd chime in. I'm using the Holley geometry corrector on the linkage, I looked at the plunger with the pan off...it is being pushed in all the way. I set it with the pan off so I know its starting in the right spot. If I adjust it a little tighter it helps but will usually readjust when I floor it. I actually have that tv kit you mentioned but not sure I want to pull the valvebody off. No matter what I do I cannot get the pressure to rise right away, I installed one of those springs you put on the cable to get more pull off idle. I know this isn't a fix but it makes me feel better about driving it without burning clutches up. Can my governor affect it? It wants to upshift instantly at higher speeds when it does finally kickdown. I'm going to switch it with one that was in my car originally, been told that governor only affects high speed, we'll see.

 

The Sonnax spring you talk about using on the cable is just for this. If you want later upshifts at part throttle, remove the governor and there will be two springs, remove the weakest of the two (it's obvious) and this will make part throttle shifts a little later and the downshifts a little easier. What year and model transmission was in their originally? And what year and where did this transmission come out of?

 

The trans I removed was a 700r4 date coded an 85 model, its an 84 car so I'm thinking someone has already changed it. I was going to put that governor in it, it has one heavier and one lighter spring in it. I don't know what the one in it now has, I've never had the cover off. I do know that when I ordered the trans initially (88-92 model), they set it up for a 4x4 with 3.08 gears and 31" tires. Not sure what they did to achieve this or if it was just BS.

 

How do I raise full throttle upshifts? I did what you said (removed lighter spring) and its waaaay better now. It kicks down easier however my full throttle shifts are still about 4600, I'd like 5-5300. Do I need to change springs or weights? The other thing I notice now is that my 1-2 shift isn't as firm as I'd like it. 2-3 is awesome but 1-2 has a slight delay. I'm thinking about pulling my servo to see what exactly I have. Its supposed to be a corvette one, we'll see.

 

Make sure that it has the Corvette servo. To achieve the later WOT upshift you will need to modify or change the inner weight in the governor to the next lighter one. There are governor kits for this or you can do this yourself through some research. If you have the Corvette servo and know you have the .500" main boost valve, then the separator plate feed hole needs to be enlarged and the 1-2 accumulator might need to have the correct accumulator spring to have WOT firm shifts. The .296" intermediate/reverse boost valve is for the 1-2 manual shift. The 1-2 manual shift should be firmer than when you have the shifter left in Drive. You want to maintain smooth part throttle shifts while getting quick WOT shifts. I carry the modified TransGo Shift kit for this if you want to go through the valve body, governor, separator plate, etc. The 1982 - 1986 units were the most troublesome and the modified Shift kit that I carry addresses the many problems that were in these early transmissions.

 

Thanks for the advice, I will remove my servo this week sometime. This is a later model trans I'm working with, it has the aux valve body. My 1-2 feels the same whether I shift manually or leave it in D or OD. I just installed both boost valves so I know they are right. What do you think about longer apply pins for the servo? I'll measure mine when I get it out...

 

that "Drive" line pressure looks really low to me. should be at least in that 150-160 range the other two gears are in.