I think there's an instructional video from these guys regarding their approach to setting up the TV cable on a 700R4. I've been to their website and searched youtube but I've come up empty.
Anyone have a link?
I understand the adjustment procedure very well and have had no troubles with past units however I've a new transmission ready to start up for the first time and I'd like to review their method again. Seems to me there were a few good points demonstrated in the video in question.
Thanks in advance.

 

The goal of the adjustment is to sync pedal wide-open throttle operation with the TV cable. The transmission then accurately 'knows' what your throttle input is since it is now in sync with the pedal.

I find the 'book' method of tightening adjustment all the way, then flooring the accel pedal.. a bit barbaric and have heard it bending the bracket if it binds wrong. I personally like this method I found on an early 2002 post here.

- Loosen TV cable (press the 'D' on the adjuster and lightly pull TV cable/adjuster towards front of the car to loosen adjustment all the way)
- Verify WOT (wide open throttle) operation, making sure the pedal moves the linkage on the TB 100% and is not binding
- Have somebody hold the pedal @ WOT
- Press the D on the TV cable adjuster and push the cable/adjuster in very firmly until it will not tighten any more Release the 'D' button to lock it.
- Verify cable operation at WOT
- Test drive

I recently reset mine as it was shifting later than expected. I figured something was up and sure enough, it was loose. She's perfect now.

 

Thanks for input and I appreciate what you're saying regarding the "book" method.
I've gone pretty deep into the principles behind the throttle valve and have had success with my own adjustment process.
That's said, there are a few things beyond just the WOT position. One being the position of the TV relative to the TV feed orifice in the valve body at the idle position. That can't be exactly determined without dropping the pan (in so far as I know). The video I'm looking for along with TV made EZ's article (TV 101) goes a little more in depth. There were a couple of nuances they describe (IIRC) that I wanted to revisit before I put the transmission into service for the first time.

 

Am very interested in that information and am staying subscribed to this thread in hopes someone is of assistance to you.

 

If you haven't already, check out TV Made EZ's website.

http://www.tvmadeez.com/

There's a lot of information to digest. Even now, as I was (still) searching for the video in question, I came across their TV adjuster that's designed specifically for Demon carbs (of which I have one). Didn't know it existed.

So I'll ask again to anyone that may be reading this, have any of you come across the TV made EZ video I'm talking about? (It could very well be that it's someone else's video I'm referring to but I think it was produced by these guys.)

 

Agree, with the exception of it being the 'book' method. The real book, the FSM, actually states not to do that. Also, I find it easier to hold the throttle wide open at the TB, and adjust the cable from there.

As a final check release the TB, then as you observe the TV/Throttle bracket, go to WOT (manually at the TB). If the TV/throttle brackets flexes a little at WOT, release the adjustment by one click.

Otherwise it will just be stretching the cable over time.

skinny z, I have not run into any tcmaeez video. And I've done quite a bit of reading and searching on TV systems. As you mention it may have been someone else.

Yes, this is important. Not sure on the 700R4, but it is likely the same. On the 200-4r need to drop the VB to check this relationship. From the machined surface side it is easy to see where the TV valve is relative to the TV feed orifice.

The TV plunger spring and the TV valve return springs can be juggled to get it correct.

RBob.

 

It seems the video isn't a TV made EZ production. Wish I could find it just the same. I'll have to log a few hours on youtube and see if i can't come across it.
As for the adjustment procedure itself, without getting into the details of the inner workings of the valve body, I've always made the adjustment at the carb. This is after I've proven that the gas pedal opens the throttle fully. I find it simpler and any deflection in the linkage can be observed as has been stated.
Interestingly, with the last transmission (which has now been replaced but not run) adjusting the cable via the "book" method resulted in shift points that were much too high. 4000 RPM while cruising and not at all at WOT. Putting about "two teeth" (via the ratchet) of slack into the cable restores the driveability. I had discussed this with Dana at Pro Built Automatics and while under stock applications this would undoubtedly cook the transmission, because of the modifications made to the transmission including a .500" boost valve and a .300" reverse boost valve, the thinking is that this has elevated the line pressure such that even with a mis-adjusted TV cable, functionality remains.
This is something I don't care to experiment with on the new transmission. There are a lot a really good parts in there and I've gone through (and continue to) more than what's reasonable to get the new unit up and running. Hence this thread and my search.
It may not be a bad idea for me to install a pressure gauge and run through tests as described as well.
Thanks for the insights to this point. As always, it's appreciated.

 

I've used their Carter version, unless you're using the LS1 version, I recommend using the TCI brackets.

 

I can't see youtube videos in work, but I stumbled upon this:
Maybe it will help.

 

That's the video I had been looking for. Found it a few days back and was going to post it but you beat me to it. Thanks for bringing that back to the front. It has a few interesting points that helped refresh my memory.
That said, I've always had all the good parts: fully adjustable throttle cable bracket (Trick Flow), Holley's TV corrector bracket for my Barry Grant (and former Holley) carb. This time around I went and picked up an ACDelco TV cable from GM.
The real difference though is having a transmission that's been built properly rather than cobbled together here and there by yours truly. This new transmission shifts like a dream under any and all conditions. The only thing I haven't done yet is take it to the drag strip for a real thrashing.
TV cable has been set by the "book" method and verified that all dimensions are correct. At WOT, there is no additional cable that can be drawn out of the sleeve. The adjuster ratcheted out as it's supposed to and no fiddling about was necessary. Also did all of the requisite pressure checks prior to the first road test. The only thing I haven't checked is the position of the throttle valve relative to the TV orifice in the valve body but that'll come about when I do my first fluid change after a few hundred (more) miles.
Here's hoping it's as durable as my last transmission. Despite being a hodge podge of parts , it certainly went the distance. It actually was still a serviceable unit when it was removed thinking that when all gears went to neutral (as in no gears in any shifter position), it was the trans that had failed. Turned out to be the torque converter turbine hub losing all it's splines.
Looks like it's all good now. Here's hoping it stays that way. The only left to do is install the Hooker crossmember and get my torque arm off of the extension housing.