LS/4L60e swap.Factory too/700 car. I think it’s too short, what can be done

 

How much should be exsposed?

 

It is too short.
Out of curiosity, what engine mounts did you use?
Is that the original 700-R4 driveline?

 

Nice job with the heater hoses.... very clean! Can you share more details, part numbers, and pictures?

It's not every day somebody asks about your hose, huh?

 

That’s the problem ,I’m unsure on the mounts. It is a stock third gen driveshaft. Haven’t drove it yet( need a trans dipstick and connect exhaust, only started and ran shortly Heater hose pipes were supplied from someone in nc. He actually was unhappy with them, I thought they looked great.

 

Just cause people like pics

 

You can see the groove from the old seal. Looks like it's about 1¼" to 1½" too short.

Not sure you can move the motor back that far, at least, not without also lowering it quite a bit, before the intake hits the windshield cowl. Also, where the trans mount lands on the crossmember, might provide a clue as to what's where.

Might just have to get a longer driveshaft made.

 

I don't know what front engine accessories those are off hand,

But if there is no plan of AC, make sure the alternator will fit, and slide it back, if the mounts are sliders.

There are definitely mounts available to mount it that far forward.

 

AC compressor is on. I guess I have to by a dang driveshaft. Accessories are from 04 Tahoe.

 

The LS 4l60E trans mount location is further back on the case than the 'ol 700R4 is. Looks like you are using the stock crossmember - pushing the trans foward? So if the rear face of the trans was in the same location as the old one, You would need a custom xmember. Likely the engine/trans is farther forward than the old setup. That could be your issue.

 

The engine looks way too far forward compared to my LS swap, my engine is closer to the firewall than that. I think you just need different mounts, and a new trans crossmember, or just drill new holes in the engine crossmember and slide it back and get a new trans crossmember. Your trans crossmember is straight, whereas the one for my T56 sits back some, and I believe the 4L60 crossmembers do too.

Or you can leave it all and get your driveshaft re-made, you can re-use your yokes and they can weld a new tube to it

What is that black box above the brake booster on the firewall?

 

I thought it set too far as well.

 

Yep stock member

 

DIdnt post with pic...Tac module

Driveshaft mod would be the easiest, will this throw the balance off? Being fwd?

 

I may change it to a t56 if I can’t live with an auto,then I’d change mounts. I haven’t had an auto in years. I have acces to a 91 five speed car for pedals.

 

So should I just measure the discolored area for the difference. Need this car running before 2018

 

1.25-1.5" isn't going to make a significant enough change for anyone to notice in the car.

Basically anyone that makes driveshafts are going to want measurements, not "add 1.5" to this one". They are going to want to know the length from the yoke to the output shaft on the transmission at ride height

 

Umm... If the driveshaft is too short, the torque arm is too short too. Move the engine back.

 

Drew has a good point. Have you even tried to fit the torque arm and mount?

 

True dat. Which is why I mentioned the crossmember thing... if the motor is too far forward, there should be MAJOR fitment problems getting the mount to bolt to the x-member. Should make a good point of reference and an indicator for what's out of place or the wrong size or whatever else the root cause of the issue is.

 

Tourque arm is mounted. Deffinetly not all the way thru. I’ll check and get more pics in a few

 

More pics

 

Ac compressor

 

That you were able to mount the AC compressor without notching the K member means your engine/trans is probably forward of "usual"

Clean swap though !

 

Definitely not enough torque arm engagement, you need to move the engine back

 

Man I’m about to abort this damn swap

 

truck accessories have a smaller AC compressor, and it is mounted higher, so maybe, but at this point, it is obvious the mounts are forward offset; probably 1.25 or 1.5".

Mounts and maybe a notch of the passenger frame isn't that much left. You have a lot done already!

 

Any mounts recommended

 

I do not feel like pulling the motor out to notch the frame.
I guess no ac for now.

 

The holley setup is pretty good. Frame brackets and crossmember. A little pricey but its on sale till Dec 31. Have to get new style engine mounts for it to work.

 

Spohn and a Hawks crossmember, you're looking at another ~$200 or so for the two?

Crossmember
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/tran...60e-automatic/

Mounts
https://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992...ng-Stands.html

AC Notch
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-9...tch-plate-kit/

 

With those mounts can I use the bushing and other hardware I already have. Trying to order all today

Also do y’all think it’s possible to notch the frame with the motor jacked up or does it need to come out?

 

Would this crossmemeber work with the 700R4 or Th350 with 9inch tailshaft?
Not trying to hijack the thread.

 

I don't know what you have so I can't say for sure. The Spohn engine mount is the frame side, and uses the stock Gen III/IV engine mount. **EDIT** Looks like you're using "setback" mounts with stock 3rd gen motor mounts, so no they won't work together, but those mounts should have kept the bellhousing flange of the engine in the "stock" 3rd gen location, so you either moved them forward, or you got non-setback mounts, which some people do make. You can probably re-drill the crossmember to make what you have work, I know it will suck though

As for the notch, you may be able to do it with the engine in, but at the very least I think you will need to jack up the engine to give yourself some more room, and removing the exhaust on that side will probably help.

 

Just get the proper one for that application, Spohn definitely makes what you need, Hawks may, or they should at least have it from a different maker.

 

The hawks design is what I was looking at. Simple and has more room for exhaust. I was under the assumption that the 700r4 and the 4L60e are the same size transmission, but the 4L60e is the electronic version of the 700r4. If they are basically the same case, then it should work of either. The TH350 with 9 in tailshaft is the same length also. Just wondered it this would work.

 

I don't think so, I don't think the mounts are in the same location, as evidence in this thread even though the overall length of the trans is the same. Just get the proper crossmember for the application

 

10/4. Headed to hawks tomorrow if time permits to buy all three. Thanx for the help, will be reporting back shortly

 

Is it possible that my mount pads are backwards(left right) causing the fwdness

 

I wonder if you could move the stock motor mount clamshells back on the K member a bit ? Might be existing holes to do so. Might have to drill new ones

 

I believe you have them correct, it would be the location on the crossmember that is incorrect, but it is hard to tell from the picture on the orientation