jsweatt

Hi everyone,
I'm trying to price out if this is worth the cost. There is a craigslist ad for a 4th gen camaro diff for $70. I was a Ford Master Mechanic for 12 years. I have all the tools to rebuild a diff, but I am not that familiar with GM rear ends. I can rebuild the unit no problem, but my question is about fitment.

The diff in this ad has drum brakes. Will my disc brakes bolt right on? Are there markings on the diff tag that will confirm it's a 4th gen diff? What are the obvious things to look for?
The idea to move to a fourth gen diff is so I can buy rims that will fit over the brake upgrade kits that we have available. Who would've thought a frozen front brake caliper would lead to replacing the rear diff, but here I am.

Here's the craigslist ad - https://austin.craigslist.org/pts/d/...572665019.html

Thanks,
Jamie

big gear head

Well I thought that all of the 4th gen rear ends had disc brakes, but I'm wrong sometimes. I'd want to measure it first to be sure it wasn't a 3rd gen rear end that was swapped into a 4th gen.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

1993-1997 V6 models had standard drums, discs optional. Your discs don't bolt up.
All others through 2002 are disc.

I would spend more to get more. A 99-02 Torsen carrier with 3.23 or 3.42 gears will have a three-series differential carrier, discs, and be well worth the additional money it will cost you for those 2 reasons alone. 2.73 diffs. have a two series carrier.

For ID, The suspension attachment points will look almost identical to your third gen. And the width will be final verification it's Fourth gen, not third.

jsweatt

I'm not trying to build a bulletproof diff. I just need to get something configured so I can get the car back on the road. Are you saying that the disc brake backing plates from my stock 92 diff will not bolt to the V6 model diff? Also, I was planning on using my 92 carrier with new axles and a new ring and pinion set.
Thanks again,
Jamie

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Your disc brakes do not bolt to 82-97 F-body drum brake housings

A used, complete 3.23 or 3.42 99-02 rear is just bone stock parts I am suggesting. Not bulletproof Just the most street able, most current, bolt in parts to let you work less, spend less, and get it running. The diff. requires no riction modifier, and the used third gen one you have if original, cones and is junk when it wears out.

New axles and gears and bearings run more than a complete good 4th rear, at least in much of the U.S. Not sure why you think you're being led down the mieading parts wagon trail. You're not. Put better parts on, and spend less. No matter how proud you are of your own work, why spend time fixings stuff if you can bolt in and go?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

92 axles won't fit a 93-up rear; they're about 1-5/8" too short.

That 6-cyl drum brake rear is NOT a deal. It is a money pit and a waste.

Cheeeeeep rear = $70
R&P = $200
Axles = $250
"Kit" = $100
Brakes = ??? no telling what to hack your brakes onto a rear they don't fit

I'm seeing AT LEAST $650 plus time and effort to turn that POS into what you're wanting. Except that at the end, you'll have a POS 92 model wore-out Auburn carrier in it, AT BEST. Maybe only an open.

Compared to:

Boneyard 98-02 rear = $400 or so

Comes with:

3.23 or higher ratio
Torsen carrier
Correct axles
Better brakes than what you have now
Bolts right in
Only hassles are parking brake cables and the fact that it's 1-5/8" longer on each side

As said, pay a bit more for the rear you REALLY want. Bolt it in and go. You're kidding yourself that the 6-cyl POS is somehow A Good Idea. No sense in paying someone for the privilege of cleaning out their garage for them. (read "Tom Sawyer" about whitewashing a fence)

jsweatt

Thanks for the tips everyone. I was hoping I found a cheap solution, but I guess I'll look into a junkyard 98-02 setup.

big gear head

I agree that this is probably the best way to go.