1985blktransam

iTrader: (1)

Happy Holidays All:

Has anyone changed the 700R4 GM Transmission Pan to an Aftermarket one Like Summit Racing Aluminum Pans, TCI, B&M or Trick-Flow ? Some hold more Trans Fluid & others have Cooling Fins. Looking to swap out my OEM GM Pan for my 1985 Trans Am for a Aluminum Trans Pan that has a Drain Plug for in-between Trans Service Fluid Changes. If so, what would you recommend ?? If changed, do you have to use a different Gasket or the GM Gasket works with all.

Is this a good idea or just keep the Stock GM Trans Pan ?? Any Recommendations would be greatly Appreciated.

Thanks
Robert

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

My biggest issue with aftermarket trans pans is that nearly all of them have the drain plug at the very bottom facing down, thus the drain plug becomes the lowest point on the pan. For people like me who have lowered cars, ground clearance is already an issue. I can't afford to give up another half inch of clearance for a bolt. I don't understand why there are so few regular depth pans that relocate the bolt to the lower edge of the side like oil pans do. You don't see oil pans with the bolt at the bottom, why are all the trans pans that way. That becomes even more of an issue with deep pans.

Here's an example of one that isn't a deep pan that has a drain bolt on the side:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmissio...53.m1438.l2649

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

by adding a good cooler..you can add almost 1 qt.. moroso also makes a pan..note drain plugs are on the sides also


steffs also make a nice pan with fittings for drain and temg gauges like the moroso pan..price for the moroso or steffs is $150 to $175


just shop..

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

I thought about doing a deeper aluminum pan when I had ProBuilt build my trans recently but since I run a secondary B&M cooler I decided not to. I did want a drain plug for fluid removal... so I had them install a drain plug to the backside of the pan. I only did this to help get MOST of the fluid out of the pan prior to removing the pan (If I ever need to) to keep my garage floor clean. I know it wont get all the fluid, and I am fine with that. It was about $7 on jegs/summit . doesn't leak.

Pro Built Automatics

I prefer the factory pan. If you want a drain plug as suggested, put it on the lower side of the pan. Aluminum pans usually sit to low, if hit hard enough can break instead of denting like steel pan. Oil should only be changed only when it looks burnt and/or smells burnt. As long as the oil looks and smells ok, leave it alone. Running a large external cooler along with the one in the radiator is the best way to go. Aim for 155F - 185F for steady operation temperature. Install the temperature sender in the "top" return transmission line coming from the cooler, for real world temperature readings.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

this cooler has it all. adding almost 1 QQT of fluid and its own Fan...you can mount it anyplace..Im placing it between the duel fans at the bottom in front..when running it adds a 3rd fan to air flow.. with trans temp gauge....


shop for the best price!

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

any thing hitting the trannny pan and putting a hole in it.. is going to take out your oil pan first..that would suck! and your dust cover if its still on..

84 z28

I have a TCI deep aluminum pan, It holds 2 extra quarts. Never had a problem with it and also have my transmission temp gauge drill and tapped into it

8t2 z-chev

I had a cast deep pan on my car for about 20 yrs-stuck down low and was always dragging on and banging against stuff:had two incidents with it-once hit a rock just right and it spun the drain plug out,final incident is when car "bottomed out"on a section of damaged road and cracked it...Original pan was dusted off and reinstalled.The deep pan I had used retained the filter in original stock position instead of lower in the pan so no advantage there.