lets talk clutches.
#1
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383
Transmission: built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.11, 9inch
lets talk clutches.
getting ready to swap in my 383 stroker and t56(lt1d style) into one of my cars. have everything pretty much lined out except for the clutch. motor makes around 475 at the crank so going to need more than a stock clutch. this is going in a warm weather daily driver. that being said I don't mind some extra pedal feel but don't want to feel like its leg day at the gym every day. ive been doing some research and think ive narrowed it down to the ram power grip or a spec stage 2. Ive also heard the lt4 corvette clutch might work. so does anybody have any recommendations or first had experience.
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: lets talk clutches.
the stock style 'valeo' pressure plates can have balance issues and many of the upgraded clutches this use PP. The pp should be neutral balanced and balance holes drilled in the side should be evident. Even if the holes are there, it may not be properly balanced, my experience with one. Or the holes may not be there and it is not balanced, my experience with another. Several threads on LS1 dot com about this issue and there was a TSB.
I wound up with a Sachs c/pp that I'm happy with but my motor is under 400 HP. If you spend the $ you may want to have a shop spin your flywheel/pp assembly before install for the peace of mind. Find a shop that knows what they're doing. A shop local to me spun mine attached to a balanced 1pc RMS crank- crank and flywheel alone were perfect, add PP and not. Charged me $20 just to test. Was an engine shop, not a clutch shop so he wasn't comfortable balancing but he pinpointed the issue.
Before you buy you can also talk to the manufacturer's tech line. Make sure they guarantee the balance of the PP and not that they receive it from another supplier and it 'should' be balanced. Told to me by one tech line.
I wound up with a Sachs c/pp that I'm happy with but my motor is under 400 HP. If you spend the $ you may want to have a shop spin your flywheel/pp assembly before install for the peace of mind. Find a shop that knows what they're doing. A shop local to me spun mine attached to a balanced 1pc RMS crank- crank and flywheel alone were perfect, add PP and not. Charged me $20 just to test. Was an engine shop, not a clutch shop so he wasn't comfortable balancing but he pinpointed the issue.
Before you buy you can also talk to the manufacturer's tech line. Make sure they guarantee the balance of the PP and not that they receive it from another supplier and it 'should' be balanced. Told to me by one tech line.
#3
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Car: 1985 Z28 & 1997 Z28 SS SLP
Engine: Sbc 305 TPI & LT1
Transmission: 700r4 and A4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt Posi 323 & Posi 323
Re: lets talk clutches.
my 95 has McLeod street clutch rated for 400 (my car is less), so not much help to ya. It has held up nice when my car is daily driven/some spirited driving. It appeared to be well made product, though
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Re: lets talk clutches.
I'm running a Ram Powergrip HD on my 383. Probably have about 400 HP. I didn't need the HD, but got my wires crossed and ordered and installed it. As they say in their literature, it's intended for 3.73 or higher. With my old 3.27 I had lots of chatter. I spoke with them and they were extremely helpful and willing to rebuild it for my needs at a much cheaper price than a new clutch kit. .....ended up with 3.42's and they work MUCH better, so I'm keeping it.
Overall great clutch and great customer service, in the event you can't order properly!!! DOH!
Overall great clutch and great customer service, in the event you can't order properly!!! DOH!
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383
Transmission: built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.11, 9inch
Re: lets talk clutches.
I'm running a Ram Powergrip HD on my 383. Probably have about 400 HP. I didn't need the HD, but got my wires crossed and ordered and installed it. As they say in their literature, it's intended for 3.73 or higher. With my old 3.27 I had lots of chatter. I spoke with them and they were extremely helpful and willing to rebuild it for my needs at a much cheaper price than a new clutch kit. .....ended up with 3.42's and they work MUCH better, so I'm keeping it.
Overall great clutch and great customer service, in the event you can't order properly!!! DOH!
Overall great clutch and great customer service, in the event you can't order properly!!! DOH!
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#8
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Re: lets talk clutches.
Gears shouldn't be a problem it's 3.23
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Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: lets talk clutches.
Ram has a little write up about clutches that will be of interest to you.
https://ramclutches.com/clutch-university-chapter-1
The deceleration issue is no joke. My friend had a Monster clutch explode at 85 mph during a track day due to straps failing in decel. Clutch and flywheel came through the floor; ruined the engine block and crankshaft; destroyed the transmission; and ripped through the exhaust and brake lines.
Personally, I have a strapless, dual disc clutch. Dual disc lightens the pedal effort, reduces rotational inertia, and enables use of less aggressive pad materials so you can slip the clutch in street driving. I also use a steel Quicktime housing with an engine block shield. Not only does it protect my body, but it protects my expensive engine. This is the shizzle you need to think about when you up your game the way you are.
I have a friend that just installed one of those RPS carbon clutches. The flywheel insert is carbon too. The thing can't overheat, doesn't need any break in period, and is smooth as butter. Wish I had one of those but I can't fathom spending $3K on a clutch. Just a personal choice.
https://ramclutches.com/clutch-university-chapter-1
The deceleration issue is no joke. My friend had a Monster clutch explode at 85 mph during a track day due to straps failing in decel. Clutch and flywheel came through the floor; ruined the engine block and crankshaft; destroyed the transmission; and ripped through the exhaust and brake lines.
Personally, I have a strapless, dual disc clutch. Dual disc lightens the pedal effort, reduces rotational inertia, and enables use of less aggressive pad materials so you can slip the clutch in street driving. I also use a steel Quicktime housing with an engine block shield. Not only does it protect my body, but it protects my expensive engine. This is the shizzle you need to think about when you up your game the way you are.
I have a friend that just installed one of those RPS carbon clutches. The flywheel insert is carbon too. The thing can't overheat, doesn't need any break in period, and is smooth as butter. Wish I had one of those but I can't fathom spending $3K on a clutch. Just a personal choice.
Last edited by QwkTrip; 03-13-2019 at 09:48 PM.
#10
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Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383
Transmission: built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.11, 9inch
Re: lets talk clutches.
Ram has a little write up about clutches that will be of interest to you.
https://ramclutches.com/clutch-university-chapter-1
The deceleration issue is no joke. My friend had a Monster clutch explode at 85 mph during a track day due to straps failing in decel. Clutch and flywheel came through the floor; ruined the engine block and crankshaft; destroyed the transmission; and ripped through the exhaust and brake lines.
Personally, I have a strapless, dual disc clutch. Dual disc lightens the pedal effort, reduces rotational inertia, and enables use of less aggressive pad materials so you can slip the clutch in street driving. I also use a steel Quicktime housing with an engine block shield. Not only does it protect my body, but it protects my expensive engine. This is the shizzle you need to think about when you up your game the way you are.
I have a friend that just installed one of those RPS carbon clutches. The flywheel insert is carbon too. The thing can't overheat, doesn't need any break in period, and is smooth as butter. Wish I had one of those but I can't fathom spending $3K on a clutch. Just a personal choice.
https://ramclutches.com/clutch-university-chapter-1
The deceleration issue is no joke. My friend had a Monster clutch explode at 85 mph during a track day due to straps failing in decel. Clutch and flywheel came through the floor; ruined the engine block and crankshaft; destroyed the transmission; and ripped through the exhaust and brake lines.
Personally, I have a strapless, dual disc clutch. Dual disc lightens the pedal effort, reduces rotational inertia, and enables use of less aggressive pad materials so you can slip the clutch in street driving. I also use a steel Quicktime housing with an engine block shield. Not only does it protect my body, but it protects my expensive engine. This is the shizzle you need to think about when you up your game the way you are.
I have a friend that just installed one of those RPS carbon clutches. The flywheel insert is carbon too. The thing can't overheat, doesn't need any break in period, and is smooth as butter. Wish I had one of those but I can't fathom spending $3K on a clutch. Just a personal choice.
i guess i hadnt really considered all those things there. i never considered it stepping up my game its basically a spare motor going in a street car. the bell housing would be nice but again street car. im going to drive the car thats about it. maybe hit an auto cross up once a year and the other car is the drag car so i doubt ill be strapping radials to it any time soon.
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