Hi, I need advice on how to PROPERLY adjust my 700r4’s t.v cable. My transmission is rebuilt and I cannot afford to screw up the tv cable adjustment. I get the basics of it, but from what I hear you can blow your tranny just testing it a mile down the road if it’s not properly adjusted. I was wondering if I should remove the pan, and see how much tension is on the little “plunger” in the valve body after adjusting the cable? It’s not adjusted at all right now. My plan was to adjust it to what I thought was proper and test drive it, and if it’s not functioning properly stop and re adjust, but I guess that little drive could blow the whole thing. It’s not set to factory spec, so I can’t leave it how it is. I really appreciate any help. Thanks

 

If you are doing it right, then its stupid simple.

With the car not running !engine off!

Push the detent button on the TV Cable where it attaches at the throttle body and pull the cable sheath back till it bottoms out. You are pulling it away from the throttle body.




Then go into the car and push the gas pedal to the floor. If its quiet enough you should hear the TV cable ratchet. You may even feel the ratcheting in the pedal as the TV cable auto-adjusts.



If it still does not shift correctly then either the cable is stretched, or the transmission has a problem.

There is no "manual" adjustment. You can't just move the TV cable a click or two in either direction to 'fix' it. You reset the TV cable to the base position, then you go to WOT and the cable will adjust to the correct setting.

 

By your forum name, I'll guess you have a TPI engine. See the brass colored tab on my TPI cars throttle body?

You push that brass button in, then pull the black cable sheath towards the firewall. You'll feel and see the assembly slide back. Once it bottoms out, you simply go sit in the car, and push the throttle all the way to the floor.

 

thanks a lot for your reply. I’ve done this before, just I’m a little uncertain about my adjustment being 100% right. My rebuilder says it needs to be perfect or else it will burn my clutches and blow my transmission. He says it’s not as obvious as seeing if it’s stacking shifts or not shifting at all. Is this true? I figure it would definitely happen if driven long enough being misadjusted, but is there a risk just setting the tv and taking it for a quick test drive and go from there? Thanks!

 

Yes, this is the right method. If the brackets and levers are correct, this insures that you have the correct setting at Wide Open Throttle. This setting affects your line pressure and shift points and is very sensitive. If you have shifts stacking or major slipping, it means you are way off.
You can try setting it from the pedal inside the car and then rechecking it from underhood by manually rotating the throttle lever. There are times when the pedal reaches the floor before you reach WOT at the throttle body. I have set this many times on different cars and like to do it underhood and watch the adjuster as I do it.

The only exception I found is that I did have a 200-4R once that had some flex in the bracket and it would end up half way between notches. It wouldn't reach the proper shift RPM at WOT, since it was about 1/2 of a notch off at the adjuster. I would hold the bracket and coax it to click over to the next notch on the adjuster. That is about all the latitude you have for adjustment.

 

And when you test drive it, go light on the throttle and make sure your part throttle shifts feel correct before you go further. If they don't feel right, then recheck.

 

your replies were definitely helpful. I guess I’ll have someone do the WOT at the pedal while I watch the bracket. Apparently at WOT it should be “guitar string tight.” I need to remember I’ll need to keep the acceleration light when testing . I’ll be looking for the 1-2 shift to be around 18-20mph and if it’s not even close to this spec I’ll stop and adjust it by a notch.