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So I scored a complete LT-T56 for dirt cheap. Bad part is that it looks like it was sitting outside and water and dirt got inside. Good part is that I am the first one to tear into it, and everything looks mint. Minimal debris on the magnets. Came off a 96 SS with 100k miles allegedly. Looks very clean. Originally was planning on rebuilding and putting it behind my 350 vortec but now have decided to 5.3 swap my v6 and mate the t56 to the 5.3. I know I have to swap the input shaft and adapter plate. There is a guy on ebay who offers to machine down your LT plate to work with the LS's TOB. Wondering if anyone has heard of this? Also my 5/6th cluster came off by hand and I heard there is a guy who can fix the mainshaft so that the gear stays pressed. Anybody know the shop? Also wondering what parts to upgrade. I know a few upgrades like the synchros and shift fork pads but can anyone shoot me a list of parts for a beefy T56. ?
Last edited by maroe624; Jul 11, 2020 at 08:48 PM.
Rockland Standard Gear sells a kit to convert from LT1 style to LS1 style. It's about $500. That's the only kit I know of (but it's not like I ever spent much time searching either).
Rockland Standard Gear sells a kit to convert from LT1 style to LS1 style. It's about $500. That's the only kit I know of (but it's not like I ever spent much time searching either).
I heard about the kit. All it consists of is the plate and the input shaft right? I figured the guy on ebay is charging 125$ for the machining service and I could just buy a ls1 input and I'm in the game. And yeah the service manual is very good, printed it out and have been going through it. The illustrations are great. First time rebuilding a manual transmission. Honestly looks easier than an auto.
Dan is also does the throw out bearing conversion.
Depending on the shape of the synco hubs and the teeth on the gears you might be better off with a new trans.
You can sink a lot of money fast if the synco teeth on the gears are chewed up. 1-2 are usually the worse shape.
I've done both my old 700R4 and my T56 time wise they both were about the same to rebuild. The tip is as you take it apart note the snap rings and the direction of how they face ( the sharp edges) the service manual is really good. Pay attention to the orientation of the spacer for the cluster gear extension.
That trans. has been apart before. More info on the 5-6 vibration fix: google "Project "fix that damn 5th/6th gear high speed vibration"." I think the weld job goes 0.005" interference, insead of 0.002". Make sure you have gears you will be happy with when running 0.50 sixth with a 5.3. There were 3 production 2nd gears for the 94-02 F-body T56; if you don't have the third version, going new would be advised. Since you got waterlogged, you're replacing blocker rings 1-6, the shifter bushing (OEM glued in with proper epoxy is quieter than bronze,) and fork pads, and billet keys for 1-4 at least.
You might want to do bearings, depending on condition of things.
Yeah, you can do the converted front plate and an aftermarket maindrive (input) and you need shims for the front to re-set bearing clearance.
That trans. has been apart before. More info on the 5-6 vibration fix: google "Project "fix that damn 5th/6th gear high speed vibration"." I think the weld job goes 0.005" interference, insead of 0.002". Make sure you have gears you will be happy with when running 0.50 sixth with a 5.3. There were 3 production 2nd gears for the 94-02 F-body T56; if you don't have the third version, going new would be advised. Since you got waterlogged, you're replacing blocker rings 1-6, the shifter bushing (OEM glued in with proper epoxy is quieter than bronze,) and fork pads, and billet keys for 1-4 at least.
You might want to do bearings, depending on condition of things.
Yeah, you can do the converted front plate and an aftermarket maindrive (input) and you need shims for the front to re-set bearing clearance.
How can you tell it's been apart before? That's the post I came across and that's how I learned about issue and fix. Are they still in buisness, Texas Speed? About 2nd gear. How do I figuire out which one I have? Tag on housing says its a 95. Broke down the mainshaft today and inspected the clutch teeth onbut the gears. They look good but I'm no expert. Which ones can I reuse and which do I replace? My reverse synchro is chewed up on one side but the other side is perfect, I heard you can flip it around and reuse, is this true? Think I might need a new reverse gear. Damn gears are pricey
https://youtu.be/nO5pnuCp8L0
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Last edited by maroe624; Jul 15, 2020 at 04:37 AM.
Your blocker rings are carbon (not fiber) of the design used from ~00 to 05 and your RTV sealant is applied more heavily than used in an original unit.
You have an early design 2nd gear with short engagement teeth. It looks good now, maybe because it found it's way into the unit in 2004, but replacement is what you need to do. The aftermarket new gears are fine. Original Tremec 3rd design 2nd gears are probably not readily available/affordable on the market now.
Rev. synchro is fine to reverse. It is a 5-6 synchro plus a spring retainer plate.
Texas Drivetrain Perf. is open as far as I know. Diff. business than Tx speed. Drop me a line if you can't find their ph#.
Your blocker rings are carbon (not fiber) of the design used from ~00 to 05 and your RTV sealant is applied more heavily than used in an original unit.
You have an early design 2nd gear with short engagement teeth. It looks good now, maybe because it found it's way into the unit in 2004, but replacement is what you need to do. The aftermarket new gears are fine. Original Tremec 3rd design 2nd gears are probably not readily available/affordable on the market now.
Rev. synchro is fine to reverse. It is a 5-6 synchro plus a spring retainer plate.
Texas Drivetrain Perf. is open as far as I know. Diff. business than Tx speed. Drop me a line if you can't find their ph#.
Ok cool so it's been rebuilt before. All blocker rings look good and fit on the gears nice. Havent took a feeler guage to them but they seem to have a pretty good gap on the gears. One concern.....Does water mixing with the atf compromise the integrity of my blocker rings, bearings, etc.? Im pretty sure it was never ran with the water ovbiously but it sloshed around in there and boy oh boy did it smell bad. Can I just clean them with mineral spirits and reuse if clearances are good? Gonna be replacing second gear. Thanks for the info brother. Got in contact with Jason form Tdp. Gonna be shipping out my shaft soon. Can I reuse the 5/6 cluster gear on the reworked shaft?
Finally getting around to my T-56 and having some issues with my new blocker rings from Synchrotech. When assembled my 3rd gear blocker doesn't stay put. I can push it up against the gear cone and spin in 360 degrees .The keys are not keeping it stationary in position. Comparing my old blockers to the new, my old ones appear to have more material and have more clearance, these new ones appear to be machined poorly. I put the old ones back in and the keys keep em in position. Not sure what the problem is. Guessing its the blockers. Just don't want the blockers to spin and then I' m stuck in that gear. Any help is appreciated. Also having trouble putting the case on and assembling the shifter with the little ball. Any tips thanks. Check this video . Im also wondering were this tiny pin came from. I dont remember were it goes.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6IF-7L76Z-E
Finally getting around to my T-56 and having some issues with my new blocker rings from Synchrotech. When assembled my 3rd gear blocker doesn't stay put. I can push it up against the gear cone and spin in 360 degrees .The keys are not keeping it stationary in position. Comparing my old blockers to the new, my old ones appear to have more material and have more clearance, these new ones appear to be machined poorly. I put the old ones back in and the keys keep em in position. Not sure what the problem is. Guessing its the blockers. Just don't want the blockers to spin and then I' m stuck in that gear. Any help is appreciated. Also having trouble putting the case on and assembling the shifter with the little ball. Any tips thanks. Check this video . Im also wondering were this tiny pin came from. I dont remember were it goes. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6IF-7L76Z-E
The blockers bring spinning because you're pulling it down out of the Cinco setup if you slide the collar down it would stay locked in with the keys engaged.
To keep the ball in place put a little bit of transmission assembly lube on the ball and spring you'll have to hold the shifter guide with your hand while you're sliding down the tail housing make sure the gear sets in neutral it's a pain in the butt there's no way around it takes a few times to get at least when I did mine. A pin punch sometimes helps for lining up the shift rails for the guide bolts.
The 3rd blocker ring should be retained against rotation by the keys, but that function is guaranteed by an assembled unit. So if the 4th blocker ring is missing, the keys could be out of location. When a new aftermarket part is designed and tested, it's tested with certain assembly parts. Maybe those rings were tested with OEM stamped keys but not the billet keys you have, or something like that. Who knows if you'll have access to that info from the seller, or not.
Try zip tieing .the spring and ball into the central shift guide piece before assembly. It can help.
The 3rd blocker ring should be retained against rotation by the keys, but that function is guaranteed by an assembled unit. So if the 4th blocker ring is missing, the keys could be out of location. When a new aftermarket part is designed and tested, it's tested with certain assembly parts. Maybe those rings were tested with OEM stamped keys but not the billet keys you have, or something like that. Who knows if you'll have access to that info from the seller, or not.
Try zip tieing .the spring and ball into the central shift guide piece before assembly. It can help.
Hey thanks for the tip man. Once assembled they fit perfect. So I finished putting it back together and I left out the skip shift lever. I read that it was ok to do so? Only thing bothering me now is this small dowel pin, smaller than all the other pins from the shift rail. . I can't remember were I removed it from. I believe there is only 3 pins for the shift rail correct. The one in the tail housing, the and two in the middle were the ball rides and the skip shift lever? Got a few other questions too. I have the flywheel that came with the transmission which is for an Lt1 . Wondering if it will work behind my L31? Also would like some suggestions on what clutch and pp to run with my mild, bolt on L31. I have some thirdgen pedals but I read its easier and better to go ahead and use fourth gen pedals so I plan on picking some up. Any tips appreciated .
Under the case inspection 4 bolt cover, the shift pattern detent lever was 2 pieces in 94-95. One piece was for CAGS. Later, a 1-piece detent lever was used. If the horizontal shift detent (long curved groove) and vertical (spring and ball bore) are retained, you're fine.
The forward shift interlock pin that selects each fork is roll-pin retained. There's one in the back for the shifter offset lever. I think the mid-located detent lever used 2 for the 2-piece lever setup, but don't have the pieces in front of me.
All 86-03 production 5.0 and 5.7 SBC, LT1, and LT4 can accept the same balance flywheel so you're good there. Make sure a new clutch is matched to a properly machined flywheel, so both steel surfaces are "new." I don't go aggressive on clutches for your power level. But, I've driven a metallic re-lined T5 clutch that you couldn't kill, though the flywheel was worn down with that one. A stock properly working 11" LT1 clutch isn't a bad start if releasing correctly.
If everything is 4th gen hydros, clutch etc., I think the 4th gen pedals are a good idea. Third gen pedals can work, as they have a little longer throw. Matched with a shorter pushrod and stiffer, shorter throw, it'll work but up to you.
Under the case inspection 4 bolt cover, the shift pattern detent lever was 2 pieces in 94-95. One piece was for CAGS. Later, a 1-piece detent lever was used. If the horizontal shift detent (long curved groove) and vertical (spring and ball bore) are retained, you're fine.
The forward shift interlock pin that selects each fork is roll-pin retained. There's one in the back for the shifter offset lever. I think the mid-located detent lever used 2 for the 2-piece lever setup, but don't have the pieces in front of me.
All 86-03 production 5.0 and 5.7 SBC, LT1, and LT4 can accept the same balance flywheel so you're good there. Make sure a new clutch is matched to a properly machined flywheel, so both steel surfaces are "new." I don't go aggressive on clutches for your power level. But, I've driven a metallic re-lined T5 clutch that you couldn't kill, though the flywheel was worn down with that one. A stock properly working 11" LT1 clutch isn't a bad start if releasing correctly.
If everything is 4th gen hydros, clutch etc., I think the 4th gen pedals are a good idea. Third gen pedals can work, as they have a little longer throw. Matched with a shorter pushrod and stiffer, shorter throw, it'll work but up to you.
Picked up some 4th gen pedals just now and realized they came off an LS1 car and not LT!. Damn. Are the pedals the same ? I read that the only difference is that ls1 has a return spring and LTone does not. Can i just get rid of the spring?
Last edited by maroe624; Apr 26, 2021 at 06:53 PM.
I read that the ls1 pedals have a longer throw. Can I make these work with my Lt1/t56. Do I just buy an adjustable Master cylinder and use a lt1 slave. Still have my 3rd gen pedals . I been reading a lot but cant find definitive answers only pieces.
Picked up some 4th gen pedals just now and realized they came off an LS1 car and not LT!. Damn. Are the pedals the same ? I read that the only difference is that ls1 has a return spring and LTone does not. Can i just get rid of the spring?
Not with bone-stock dimension parts. Forget it unless you have a problem that warrants even thinking about it.
Ok cool. Yeah I was looking at the flywheel and its a gm oem.So gonna go with a gm slave and master as well . Wondering whats a good clutch to start with for my application and wether to run bushing or bearing for the pilot.. Running a Stock L31 with bolt ons, posi, carb and minor ignition mods. I would like to believe I'm pushing right about 300 hp and 300 tq maybe more.
Everything went smooth with the swap. Fourth gen pedals went in smooth. Just had to enlarge the mount holes a bit and cut off accel pedal. I see a lot of people cut an oval hole but I found a 38mm hole saw is the perfect size. Master cyl fit perfect. Pretty much plug and play swap. Thanks for the help bros.
I like the idea of hiding the <ahem> wiring a little more. If it's for what I think, visible defeats the purpose. If it's not, it still can be kicked / bumped.
I like the idea of hiding the <ahem> wiring a little more. If it's for what I think, visible defeats the purpose. If it's not, it still can be kicked / bumped.
Enjoy your hard work!
Haha yeah I took care of it. Just a fan toggle switch. Gonna be putting in a thermo switch soon. So far so good. T-56 is running flawless with no weird noises. Clutch engagement and disengagement is perfect. I kinda drilled the hole in the firewall a little to the right but it works nevertheless. Thanks for your help bro. Wish I would have heard of the clutch break in period before making some pulls like a maniac haha.
Once assembled they fit perfect. So I finished putting it back together and I left out the skip shift lever. I read that it was ok to do so? Only thing bothering me now is this small dowel pin, smaller than all the other pins from the shift rail. . I can't remember were I removed it from. I believe there is only 3 pins for the shift rail correct. The one in the tail housing, the and two in the middle were the ball rides and the skip shift lever? Got a few other questions too. I have the flywheel that came with the transmission which is for an Lt1 . Wondering if it will work behind my L31? Also would like some suggestions on what clutch and pp to run with my mild, bolt on L31. I have some thirdgen pedals but I read its easier and better to go ahead and use fourth gen pedals so I plan on picking some up. Any tips appreciated .
I like the idea of hiding the <ahem> wiring a little more. If it's for what I think, visible defeats the purpose. If it's not, it still can be kicked / bumped.
