Wondering how many members have this set-up? I know only the 82s have it, (maybe a couple early 83s?), but would like this set-up on my 84 T/A. I'm assuming these pieces are either gold, or totally frowned upon. I see the aftermarket has a few universal hyd. clutch kits, but I would prefer mechanical, only because of the reliability, cost, and ease of installation reasons. Maybe the factory hyd. set-ups are still available to purchase. Haven't looked into that yet. Thanks for any opinions. (Happy Easter, and early spring cruising)

 

You can still buy the factory hydraulic set ups. They run between $125-$150 for a complete unit or you can get the individual pieces from Rock Auto for cheaper. Mechanical set-ups aren't any more reliable, they just fail in different ways, to each their own though.

 

I haven't had a 3rd gen with a mech. link, but had them on all my other Pontiacs, (GTOS, and FBs), and in my trucks. In almost 50 years of driving them, the only problem I ever encounter, was my 64 Goat as a teenager. The ball broke off in the eng. A quick tap with a drift, to spin out the busted remainder, 2 bucks for a replacement ball from Pontiac, and back up and running. With the liquid lines, slave cylinders, and master cylinders required for the 3rd gens, and the possibility of leaky or blown seals, I'll take the mech. tried and proven design (if I have a choice). If I don't, it's nice to know the factory system is still available. Thanks for the tip.

 

I agree on the mechanical linkage generally being more reliable. My first few cars/trucks were all mechanical linkage. My 1985 Camaro was the first hydraulic clutch vehicle I've owned, and I'm not a fan. Almost left me stranded one day when a slow hydraulic leak finally reached a failing point. I realized there is still mechanical parts involved, plus now a hydraulic system to maintain as well. I guess if you are lazy it feels smoother than mechanical only, or if you have a legitimate medical reason for needing hydraulic assist.

I think the Japanese built the best clutch system; cable activated from the clutch pedal to clutch fork. Brilliantly simple, reliable for life of the car, and smooth operation with incredibly simple adjustment.

 

a "cable" activated system? Interesting.. I guess with a diaphragm clutch, or something light duty, sounds cleaner than liquids. I'ld like to see a schematic of that. Thanks Aaron.

 

Mid to late 90's Mustangs have a cable clutch setup, I have one as a daily. It's smooth as glass and never had a problem with it.
As far as 3rd gens I had both, ('83 Firebird) mechanical and ('84 T/A) hydraulic. If I had to choose one, it would be mechanical linkage for dependability.

All work equally well if maintained, but the one I worry the most about being stranded with is the plastic constructed hydraulic one... Also a concern will be when replacement OEM design hydraulic parts become obsolete for these cars.


Here's the cable operated system:

 

Hey, now there's something different. A design like that also over-comes some of the space issues with the other two systems, such as locating master cylinders, or Z-bar piping. However the under dash could be challenging, given the height of the cable mechanism above the pedal support. Plus I wonder how much load is on the cable where the bracket at the mid-point attached to the frame is under? You say this is a Ford design? I'ld like to hear some opinions from the Ford guys concerning this, and how many years it was utilized. Thanks for posting.

 

I am new to this site only because I have 2 NOS 1982-1983 clutch linkage brackets, GM # 14078558 and GM # 14078559, that I have tried to sell on the NastyZ28 Swap Meet Section (1970-1981 Camaro parts) for $20 for both brackets. Apparently no one on the NastyZ28 site owns a 1982 or 1983 Camaro with a M.T. I bought the 2 parts from my local Chevrolet dealership in Manchester, NH, back in 1983 or 1984 when I owned a 1982 Camaro. I do not have any other 1982-1983 Camaro clutch linkage parts. If interested, There are 2 photos below and more photos on the the NastyZ28 site in my ad in the Swap Meet Section. I have been a member of the NastyZ28 site since 2007. I use the same name, DCL70.
Dave

 

Too bad you don't have the Z bar too. I would trade you my wife's Hyundai for the set. (she would be a little up-set tho.

 

There are 3 different Z-bars listed in the drawing below that I found on the web: 14068780, 14056673, and 14036151.
My 1982-1982 Camaro Parts Catalog (March 1983) lists just the 14036151 clutch control lever for 82-83 F(305H) and 83 F (305-7) in Gr. 0.852.
My 1982 Firebird Parts Catalog (December 1981) lists just the 14036151 clutch control lever for 82 F(305H, 5.0-7) in Gr. 0.852.

 

Interesting. I wonder where the difference lies? Wonder if the 83 had an up-grade, or gusset added somewhere. Be nice to see a blueprint of the 3, or a side by side comparison. Thanks for posting the schematic.

 

According to LG4TA, in an older post: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...4-mk5-mk6.html

Mk4- 4 Cyl..
Mk5- 6 Cyl.
Mk6- 8 Cyl.

Likely different lengths and bends to make up for the various engine block dimensions between them.

 

Really? I would've thought because the bellhousings are "usually" interchangeable, the clutch ball would be located the same. But I consider the 80s cars, and design to be "new" compared to what I was weened on.

 

Does anyone have any measurements from the Z-bars?

I have an extra one in my garage and it is slightly different than the one in my 82 (believed to be original, I bought it from the original owner)

 

Do you believe your extra one is a 3rd gen Z bar?

 

I bought it on here a few years back, I believe it is but don't know which engine. Its slightly different than my 305/Saginaw original one

Not for sale at the moment, but will if I ever sell the car!

 

Is the difference in the total width, the lever heights, or the "s" bend? All of the above? none of the above? Thanks.

 

It was the bend area, length looked the same.

I'll dig it out in a few weeks when I get back home

 

Cool, thanks. It amazes me when I look at my firewall, (with no booster in place), and see the location of the clutch pedal, and the frame rail below. From a frt view, (looking rrwrd), the top of the frame, and wheel well, are far to the left, (or towards the inside), and the clutch pedal, is located more behind the wheel well. Unlike the 2nd gen where the frame rail, (Z bar mounting bracket) is more in-line with the clutch pedal.

What I'm getting at, is that the top of 3rd gen Z-bar upper lever, (that the pedal push rod connects to), must have a severe bend towards the fender, to get "behind" the wheel well. And with the "S" shaped tube of the Z-bar, It really seems like a radical distortion on the entire set-up..

 

Hi. PM sent about these.

 

I collect 3rd Gen parts (mainly rare hard to find pieces). I have several complete mechanical clutch linkage sets in my collection. None are for sale, but I would be glad to send pictures or measurements to anyone who needs information. The middle Z-bar has been repaired once on the transmission end, hence the angle is not factory correct.

 

Very kind of you to offer your services, but it just goes to show that these Z bars are considered "GOLD", and no-one wants to part with them, even if they have extras. It still amazes me the aftermarket doesn't reproduce them, but altho the 3rd gen crowd cherishes them, there just must not be enuff interest to reproduce them. Sad.

 

No offense but that is called hoarding. I can get hanging onto one good condition, even new, extra part, but holding onto several when you know that you’ll never use them and there are other enthusiasts who could (and would pay you for it) is just annoying.

Unless I’m reading the situation wrong and you own like 4 early thirdgens and daily each of them such that the clutch linkages are getting thrashed and in near constant need of replacement.

 

As I was opening up my box of parts for my build, I find this little jewel buried on the bottom.

I couldn't believe it. I already got one from years gone by. Tough getting old.