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I got my 700r4 Street/Strip from Probuilt Automatics yesterday. I will start the install this weekend. Also included is a 9.5" Lockup Edge Street Converter.
It will be installed behind a mild EFI 383" SBC in my 1987 Camaro with air conditioning.
I plan for the install to be fairly straight forward and completed without issues, lol.
1. Is there a break in period and should the fluid and filter be changed after a certain time/miles?
2. TV cable adjustment. I know how to adjust the cable, (push the indent in and pull the cable all the way back, then press gas pedal to the floor and it ratchets itself into place). I have a TPI throttle bracket bolted to a Edelbrock Pro Flo XT intake.
Does the cable need to be adjusted so it goes from fully closed to fully open when the throttle is Closed/WOT, or is it's movement relative to the movement of the throttle?
If that doesn't make sense, I am trying to say that right now with the TV cable adjusted, and the throttle in WOT (engine off), if pull the TV cable it still has some movement.
3. The 9.5" Edge converter advertises True Stall saying no excess heat is produced. I will be driving this car on the street 100% of the time with occasional WOT pulls in the back roads. Do I need a auxiliary transmission cooler? If so what one and where to mount it?
You'll want a trans cooler, they're easy to install. When I ran an automatic (TH350, 2200 stall), my cooler was mounted on the front of the radiator and I believe it was just a Mr Gasket branded unit, nothing special. Mounted via pins that went through the radiator fins with nuts on the backside.
No clue on the TV adjustment, did you try searching on here?
The shop should have provided you with break-in information, if they didn't then you should reach out to them.
Installing in front of the condenser isn't ideal but it is the easiest. I would recommend getting one with a built in bypass. If I wasn't reusing a cooler I already had, I'd definitely get one that either has -AN fittings or allows you to install -AN adapters so you can run -AN the whole way. Hardlines are also a good choice if you don't like -AN.
2. You will want to ask Dana when to change the first fluid and filter. I put about 10k miles on my own rebuilt unit then swap a gallon out, then wait a week or two, swap another gallon out, then after another week I perform the whole fluid/filter change. I chose this method because some fluid stays in the converter and trans cooler lines so you won't really get it all on the first flush or change. You could also just perform two fluid/filter changes back to back but I'm lazy to do that... but you def want to remove the break in materials from the trans at some point, some how.
3. Absolutely the (one of the) most important thing is to monitor trans fluid temperature, keep it below 175*F at all times. 155 to 175*F is ideal. Do not allow 185+ for long and certainly nothing over 190+ is good for it.
To keep it cool you will want a large capacity cooler with a fan. I can't stress this enough how important it is. Do whatever it takes to get one in there.
You can mount in front of the radiator if you find room but I find being near the radiator may warm it up too much over long drives. Ideally I would place the trans cooler near the rear of the car, however weird that sounds, where it can get good airflow while driving of course, and also the fan can work when it gets hot, but you will need to shield it from dust, debris, road grime... it can be a tricky install. In any case put it wherever you find room and simply monitor fluid temps to see if you got it right, and of course be aware of protecting it from damage due to road debris.
If u are racing driving your car hard, ten, yes u need an external cooler. Otherwise, the cooler on the radiator is okay. Just drive the car as u would. There is really no breakin period on the tranny. As 1 fellow stated above, I would change it at 10000 miles or after 1 year whichever comes 1st. Good luck.
I will reach out to Dana about any precautions to take and when or if to change fluid and filter.
As far as the TV cable. Currently my stock 700r4 is working correctly. I have the TPI throttle body and bracket bolted to the Edelbrock Pro Flo XT intake. I'm sure it is correct but just wanted to double check.
The throttle bracket is the same distance from the throttle body as it would be on the stock TPI intake.
Its probably fine but I don't like to assume anything. There is some issue with geometry on some setups causing issues at part throttle.
If you want to be 100% sure it requires a pressure gauge. There is no way to really tell from just looking afaik.
Im surprised Dana didn't recommend a pressure gauge. Did you at least show him the picture from above? I would make sure he confirms anything/everything
Most of us Transmission-Builders like to change the Filter and Fluid after about 3 full Heat-Cycles (by driving).
You would be surprised just how much crap will be in the Filter/ Pan... even with an immaculately clean assembly process.
I'll ask Dana what he thinks too. I will have to do something because I will never put the required miles on the car to get to a service interval. I've had a 1989 Mustang 5.0 for 23 years and only put 30,000 miles on it.. With only 5-6 months of driving weather, then only driving a few times a month, the miles never ad up. I have a 2018 GMC Sierra and it only has 5000 miles. I've only put 1300 miles on the Camaro since buying it 2 years ago
