When my 305 spun a bearing, I finally had an excuse to swap in a T56 to go with a Vortec 350. Found a complete T56 from a totaled 94 Z28 with only 30k miles on the clock. I had already changed my hydraulic lines to 4an and installed an LT1 starter. Trans looked good so I sent the tailhousing off to Alloy for mechanical speedo conversion and ordered a new flywheel, clutch kit, and Spohn crossmember. I also got plugs for the VSS, skip-shift, and reverse lockout solenoids. Hardest part was muscling in the trans under jackstands. With the T5 out, I extended the tunnel back about about 2". While the shifter base is only 1.5" further back, I wanted the hole in the boot centered on the shift lever. I wrapped some wet rags around the carpet, and made short work of the metal from underneath with a cutoff wheel. I used some clear plastic to make a template for the 4th gen boot and made a filler panel with some aluminum sheet. I ended up cutting the spot weld under the console mount bracket for the boot to slip under, and bent up the tunnel there to flatten it out for a better seal. I gave it a quick coat of POR15 and a strip of Kilmat. Reverse bleeding the slave cylinder is easy and took less than a minute. Fluids filled and interior buttoned up, I went for a drive. I'm using the factory 3rd gen pedals and master, with a 4th gen slave modified for 4an braided hose. Clutch engagement is exactly the same as before, relatively high on the pedal. The taller 1st and 2nd gear ratios are nicely matched to my 3.73s and 5th gear is so much more usable. 6th gear is fantastic when the freeway opens up. I've driven to work twice and picked up about 2 mpg. I have noticed only two problems. The factory shifter is sloppy compared to the Pro 5.0 I'm used to and reverse was way too easy to engage. The spring loaded delete plug just wasn't strong enough. I removed the plunger from the factory lockout, removed the circlip holding the spring on, then reassembled it back into the housing. With the spring now extended to the bottom of the housing, the spring force is about half. Strong enough to prevent accidentally grabbing reverse, but I can muscle it over with one hand and there's no danger of damaging the solenoid pin. I have an MGW shifter on the way, as well as a new 6-speed shifter plate from Hawks as the finishing touch.

 

Awesome swap! I used a tick short shifter in on my magnum f. The gate is almost too tight. I have that same spring loaded reverse lockout and I adjusted it so it was softer. If the clutch is engaging to high (mine was initially) you can use a ram pedal hight adjuster. It brought the pedal engagement to more of the middle of the stroke. I plumbed it in to the bleeder side and mounted it on the firewall.

 

Just a word of warning, if you're lowered at all, that crossmember will hit on most speedbumps, steep driveways, candy wrappers, etc...

 

this is true, candy wrappers will be an issue. I had to modify the driveshaft loop and crossmember so it wasn't so low. It was so bad it was hitting everywhere. I was able to get and extra 1.5 inches by cutting and modifying stuff. It made a pretty massive difference in drivability.

and now I can drive over candy wrappers and some speed bumps too!

 

i made my shifter go about two inches further by welding a piece of metal to my shifter and shortened the throws a little.... I THINK the GTO short throw shifter will work im not to sure, it goes about 2 inches further and straight up in some appliances not all but never saw a forum saying otherwise. im using the 4th gen sophn cross member too and haven't had any clearance issues other than my dual exhausts