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Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
I have an 84 Z28 with the T-5 transmission. I want to upgrade to an Ls3 with a manual transmission. I've been looking around the forms but mostly finding 'autos' for some reason. I would prefer not to do a lot of fab work, but if some is needed to be done, I'm okay with it. Could someone either link me to or help me out and recommend the best/easiest manual transmission to mate and install in my 84 to an LS3. Or another engine that is equal or more than 400hp(can be carb). I have been thinking that the t-56 or t-56 magnum would be the best options, but I read that it's not worth the hassle in one or two forms so now I have more questions than answers, and if it is how much further back is the shifter going to be(or forward) I also plan on using the 9" Ford Housing & Axle Package from Moser any comments on that idea would help a lot.
Last edited by Ialwaysneedhelp; Aug 15, 2024 at 06:44 PM.
If you go with a Magnum T56 your shifter will be about 1.5 inches forward. However, if you get the f-body version, everything lines right up. Same goes for a T56 out of an LS1 4th gen car.
They are not a hassle and worth every penny. The hydraulic clutch also frees up space for long tube headers. 400hp is pretty easy with any LS engine.
I have an 82 that had a t5 and a SBC. I swapped a magnum f close ratio. I used a spohn crossmember. You can use an American powertrain setup for the hydros. I used one and it's great. The clutch action was great w my dual disk. I used the hd yoke w 1350 u joints and a 3.5 in aluminum shaft going to my moser 9. It's all pretty bolt in. My shifter is pretty perfect.
this is a pic of the tkx setup. The t56 one is similar.
I have a small block but you'll just need the LS bell housing of choice and a clutch/flywheel from your favorite company. You can likely use a stock LS/t56 bell. I used a ram dual disk. It's good up to 750hp. I have a 450hp setup now w a supercharger going on this winter. The dual disk shifts great and can take what ever stupid stuff I dish out. Ram tech is great at helping with getting the proper stuff together. They can help w a flywheel/clutch and hydros if you don't use the American powertrain setup.
Things that are less than great about your car stock:
Driveshaft angle / vibration.
Torque arm attached to the trans.
Now, you could keep those issues with a Magnum F or F-body T56.
But, you may want to have cable speedo drive (F-body T56 lacks this) and you may want to avoid the vibration issues with the torque arm (transmits through the trans. mount and tries to tear apart the trans. mount.) And, if you go with the regular length Magnum, a shorter driveshaft has less potential for vibration issues until a higher rpm.
The F-body T56 still has interference issues with the floor brace (minor.) The full length Magnum shifter is a bit forward, so a rear setback stick can address position. The F version also costs more, last I checked.
I have retrofit the OEM T56 in third gens and other vehicles. But there isn't a good reason to confine yourself to it, nor the Magnum F if you're starting a swap and trying to overall improve the car.
My magnum f doesn't have the torque arm bolted to it. I think it's cast for the option but I used a spohn crossmember and torque arm. A longer magnum would be really close to the cross member mounted torque arm. This area between the drive shaft/torque arm is pretty busy. The magnum f shifter location was only like 1 inch off. I had to trim a little of the floor, like 1/2-3/4 inch. I only know from my experience but the magnum f fits pretty perfect. All t56s are big and a tight fit when compared to a t5. The fuel lines that are in the trans tunnel are really close to the trans. I relocated them when i did my new fuel system.
I have an 82 that had a t5 and a SBC. I swapped a magnum f close ratio. I used a spohn crossmember. You can use an American powertrain setup for the hydros. I used one and it's great. The clutch action was great w my dual disk. I used the hd yoke w 1350 u joints and a 3.5 in aluminum shaft going to my moser 9. It's all pretty bolt in. My shifter is pretty perfect.
@Firechicken82 What is your Clutch Hydraulics setup in the above Image?
I have also installed many of these Transmissions into Customers Vehicles...
(Original T56s, OEM TR6060s, Magnum T56s, Magnum-F T56s).
The Magnum-F T56 Transmissions are very much like a copy of the Original T56 Externally...
But with all the improvements of the TR6060 and Magnum T56 Transmissions Internally.
I disliked quite a bit about the TR6060 when they first came out.
The Bellhousing is not removable, and more importantly is does not use a Slip-Yoke.
The left of the pic is the clutch fluid reservoir, the red thing is the pedal height adjuster from ram clutch. It's a fluid accumulator basically. When I installed the dual disk the clutch engaged at the very top of the pedal throw. This allows me to dial in the pedal throw. It also prevents over travel of the release bearing. The last item on the RT is the hydraulic speed bleeder. With this bleeding the clutch is easy to do fast and alone. It's as simple as sitting in the seat and pumping the pedal till clear fluid and no bubbles come out.
I agree, the magnum f is the move, I wish there were more bell housings available to mount it to a SBC though. My quick time bell is really solid but hangs a little low. I couldn't find anything smaller. There was a cast aluminum SBC/BOP dual drilled bells but it was pretty bulky around the engine/bell interface area. My car is kind of low and the low bell exaggerates it.