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People have asked if I am still in business? I asked when I had someone ask me for the third time recently. I said, why do you ask? Google says you are "permanently closed". When using a cell phone, it does state this. I am trying to resolve this, so far I am unsuccessful. Nothing has changed, I am still in business! Google saying I am permanently closed... Now this makes me hate Google even more.
People have asked if I am still in business? I asked when I had someone ask me for the third time recently. I said, why do you ask? Google says you are "permanently closed". When using a cell phone, it does state this. I am trying to resolve this, so far I am unsuccessful. Nothing has changed, I am still in business! Google saying I am permanently closed... Now this makes me hate Google even more.
I still remember when you helped walk me through some issues when I messed up installing a trans-go shift kit and vette solenoid over a decade ago. Some weird behavior but you knew the right place to look immediately.
Yes claiming your site allows you to edit hours and phone etc.. It's been years since I had a business to do that with. But I think it was started by setting up a Google business account. As I recall I got a number of things from Google on advertising but that was really the only downside.
Think it was 2015 or 2016 You helped me chouse the parts to rebuild my 700R4 it never shifted when it was new in 1988 as it did after I put in the parts you sent me. I later did a T56 swap but the person that bought the 700R4 from me has told me on more than one occasion that the trans is a beast.
Anyone that I've talked to that's needed trans work for their 3rd gen I have passed on your number.
Glad to hear that your still active!
Thanks for the expressions of kindness. I really appreciate that. Good news. Someone fixed this problem for me. That I am thankful for, no matter how he did it. I went in and put in the needed correct information, after I was notified of it working okay. One less problem to be concerned about. Again, thanks for the support. Everybody try to enjoy the rest of this year.
I have a Pro Street Elite trans from Dana with 6 years of 11 and 10 second passes on it sand it is still kicking butt. Street driven, with lockup, does drag racing, car shows, autocross, etc. Great transmission Mike built on behalf of Dana.
I am actually sending the converter out for a re-stall next week and was considering having ProBuilt Automatics re-fresh my transmission while it is out, but i remember Dana telling me on the phone one time " If the fluid looks good, nothing smells burnt, and the transmission is acting happy, LEAVE IT ALONE"!! So i am just going to clean up the case and put it back in after the converter comes back. Great transmission. 1.36 sixty foot and 10.55 nitrous timeslips.
I have a Pro Street Elite trans from Dana with 6 years of 11 and 10 second passes on it sand it is still kicking butt. Street driven, with lockup, does drag racing, car shows, autocross, etc. Great transmission Mike built on behalf of Dana.
I am actually sending the converter out for a re-stall next week and was considering having ProBuilt Automatics re-fresh my transmission while it is out, but i remember Dana telling me on the phone one time " If the fluid looks good, nothing smells burnt, and the transmission is acting happy, LEAVE IT ALONE"!! So i am just going to clean up the case and put it back in after the converter comes back. Great transmission. 1.36 sixty foot and 10.55 nitrous timeslips.
I'm installing that kit right now. Ran into a few minor snags.
Clutches for the reverse input drum had too much clearance, so I bought some .090" steels.
Now I'm having the opposite issue with the forward clutches. I actually have negative clearance with a stock .230" backing plate. I need to find the "E" plate so I can get at least .035-.040" clearance out of the forward clutch pack. Right now I can't even get the snap ring in without forcing it.
Lots of variation from machining, different brand parts, etc require lots of selecting to get clearances right.
Once the whole thing is together and I check end play I'll probably have to take the whole thing apart again to shim the low reverse.
I'm installing that kit right now. Ran into a few minor snags.
Clutches for the reverse input drum had too much clearance, so I bought some .090" steels.
Now I'm having the opposite issue with the forward clutches. I actually have negative clearance with a stock .230" backing plate. I need to find the "E" plate so I can get at least .035-.040" clearance out of the forward clutch pack. Right now I can't even get the snap ring in without forcing it.
Lots of variation from machining, different brand parts, etc require lots of selecting to get clearances right.
Once the whole thing is together and I check end play I'll probably have to take the whole thing apart again to shim the low reverse.
How tight is the Forward Clutch clearance now?
Is this measurement with a Waved Steel Plate? ...as this will account for some of the actual clearance.
Was this a Wet or Dry measurement?
I have often assembled these Transmissions with as little as 0.015" Forward Dry clearance with a Waved Steel Plate, as the actual clearance is closer to 0.030" - 0.035".
There is also a decent amount of clutch material loss from the Break-In process...
All the Clutch Pack clearances will open up post break-in.
Great thread! Happy to hear "Pro Built Automatics " is still in business! Nice hearing about the other guys and their time working for General Motors! My first career was in Auto Parts and Service. I would have enjoyed working in the assembly / engineering part of the car business.
How tight is the Forward Clutch clearance now?
Is this measurement with a Waved Steel Plate? ...as this will account for some of the actual clearance.
Was this a Wet or Dry measurement?
I have often assembled these Transmissions with as little as 0.015" Forward Dry clearance with a Waved Steel Plate, as the actual clearance is closer to 0.030" - 0.035".
There is also a decent amount of clutch material loss from the Break-In process...
All the Clutch Pack clearances will open up post break-in.
Clutches are dry. The retainer plate is above the snap ring land. Seriously, negative clearance. I have a .232 plate, and I ordered a .170.
I took the input drum apart like 8 times hoping to find some other stupid issue, but everything is seated correctly. It just seems the combination of new parts stacks up thicker than what came out of it.
This is with the wave in it, yes.
His kit uses the input drum sleeve. It uses a '96 and earlier aluminum overrun piston. The weird thing is the kit includes a steel forward piston and I was under the impression that the '96 and earlier aluminum overrun pistons only work with aluminum forward pistons.
I purchased a rebuild kit from Dana when I installed my 427 SBC. After speaking with him on the phone he sent me what I needed. I took it to a transmission shop here. The owner was a douche. Told me the kit wasn't good, and he could make a better one. He said he didn't want the job as I'd probably come back within a few months with a blown transmission.
I had another shop install the kit per Dana's customized instructions. Here we are 13 years later. Transmission still works flawlessly. Dana is the man!
I purchased a rebuild kit from Dana when I installed my 427 SBC. After speaking with him on the phone he sent me what I needed. I took it to a transmission shop here. The owner was a douche. Told me the kit wasn't good, and he could make a better one. He said he didn't want the job as I'd probably come back within a few months with a blown transmission.
I had another shop install the kit per Dana's customized instructions. Here we are 13 years later. Transmission still works flawlessly. Dana is the man!
Guy probably just didn't understand the components in the kit and why they were being replaced.
With that said, I do think an overhaul of the documentation would be a bit helpful. Lots of crossed out words, notations next to paragraphs, etc gets a little confusing. Dana is a nice guy, but I don't want to bother him with every single little question.
Here is a good example. At the bottom of the page, it says "with PN 24219937 2nd accumulator housing". What if I don't have that # housing? Are they all that number? If so, why not just say "accumulator housing" ? Why was this specific part # mentioned here? This is going to lead to a phone call or text message because it's not clear.
There are only two accumulator housings for the 4L60E (except early 1993). The 937 which I talk about here. The other 428 accumulator housing, uses the spring seat shown. Too much information gives the person the ability to make a mistake. The way I state it, is you cannot make a mistake.
There are only two accumulator housings for the 4L60E (except early 1993). The 937 which I talk about here. The other 428 accumulator housing, uses the spring seat shown. Too much information gives the person the ability to make a mistake. The way I state it, is you cannot make a mistake.
Gotcha. So if I have the 428 housing use the seat. Otherwise discard it.
The biggest issue I have right now is I can't get the forward drum together because I don't have the right size backing plate. The new clutches are thicker and the backing plate actually sits up a couple thou above the snap ring land. I have a .232 backing plate, and I need a .180 which I cannot find anywhere.
Hello Dana, I have a transplanted 1992 4L60 (non E) that will not be using a ECM to give a signal/power to the Solenoid for loc-up in 4th gear Only. I've been side-lined for some time so haven't opened the pan to see what's there, hopefully this Summer or before I'll get into it to find out what's there. It did run when I bought it only for 200 or so miles just fine then the Great Tear Down started. Not sure it ever gained 4th gear loc -up as No wires were connected to the plug.
All I want is to lockup the TCC in 4th gear only. I've read probably 50 different was to do it with and without a given parts kit, a lot of backyard DIY ways using a few to many parts to do it.
Just looking for something like what a 92 ECM equipped vehicle would have BUT WITHOUT THE ECM. Ive also read some DIY ways and some kits this OD trans has a tendency to Search down and up gears or in and out 3rd and 4th , 4th to 3rd gear BS.
I know a little long winded for what I want, I have a OCD brain so what some people can explain things simple my brain Runs Away with its self or keeps me in Right Field without any progress. Any and all Help is Greatly Appreciated.
Thanks, MJ aka mjgord51
Last edited by mjgord51; Mar 17, 2026 at 04:02 PM.
Some 700R4's had 4th only torque converter lockup. That was due to the ECM in that vehicle. All 700R4's have the ability in the valve body for 3rd & 4th lockup. The ECM was the only way to get the vehicles to have 4th only lockup. You cannot modify the valve body to have 4th only lockup. The only aftermarket kit that I use for vehicles that did not have torque converter lockup capability. Is the Painless wiring kit for the 700R4. It will have 3rd & 4th lockup at light throttle. If you want 4th only lockup. You would have to put a switch in line to interrupt the current coming from the vacuum switch. So it would not go into lockup till you closed the switch. Now though, with the switch closed, it will go back to locking 3rd and 4th till you remember to switch it off. This would be a pain to remember to do this all the time. If you could use the ECM. You could see if they eliminate the 3rd gear lockup, and save the money needed to buy the Painless setup. If not, I would install the painless kit as is. Shop for the best price on the Painless 700R4 lockup kit. It is simple to install and is "Painless"!
Fortunately with a few basic switches and/ or relays, it is very simple to wire the TCC Solenoid to lock-up at any time desired.
The TCC Solenoid used with the THM700-R4 is a very simple 12v, non-pwm, electrically activated (non-electronic) device.
Using a "normally open" pressure switch on the 4th-gear pressure port of the valve-body, the existing brake pedal switch, and a vacuum switch...
You would be able to make things work as desired.
From: Franklin, KY near Beech Bend Raceway, Corvette Plant and Museum.
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 5.0L L03 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Pro Built Automatics is still in business!
Originally Posted by mjgord51
I have a transplanted 1992 4L60 (non E) that will not be using a ECM to give a signal/power to the Solenoid for loc-up in 4th gear Only.
All I want is to lockup the TCC in 4th gear only.
Just looking for something like what a 92 ECM equipped vehicle would have BUT WITHOUT THE ECM.
I don't know anything about this so don't ask me no questions about it.
.
Lock-Up Kit for GM 700R4 and GM 200-4R
The COMPUSHIFT Mini is a standalone plug-and-play system designed to control the lockup of the torque converter clutch on GM 700R4 and GM 200-4R transmissions. The system uses a miniaturized version of the same control software and electronics as the COMPUSHIFT Sport.
The COMPUSHIFT Mini Torque Converter Lock-Up Kit can be programmed by App on your Smart Device using Bluetooth! The kit ships with all of the parts that should be needed for the installation including COMPUSHIFT Mini, wiring harness, speed sensor and fittings, hydraulic pressure sensor, hook and loop fasteners, terminals and cable ties.
A free downloadable App allows the user adjust and tune for their specific application and diagnose problems should they occur. The easy to read screen can display current vehicle speed, throttle position, transmission pressure, 4th gear/overdrive activity, torque converter clutch engagement (lockup), and allow for further custom tuning. The lock-up controller kit can drive an electronic speedometer as well.
Unlike other lockup control modules that use vacuum switches or a simple delay timer, the COMPUSHIFT Mini uses both the throttle position and vehicle speed to optimize torque converter clutch lock-up control.
Installing the COMPUSHIFT Mini Torque Converter Lock-Up Kit is a straightforward operation if you are familiar with working on cars. No special considerations are needed when driving with the COMPUSHIFT Mini. Properly tuned, your vehicle should have better gas mileage during cruising, and be more responsive to the throttle.
The COMPUSHIFT Mini is IP rated. It also offers CAN bus support.
SUPPORTED TRANSMISSIONS
GM 700R4
GM 200-4R
NOTE: THIS PRODUCT REQUIRES A THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR WHEN USED WITH A CONSTANT PRESSURE VALVE BODY.
This product may not be legal for use in California on pollution controlled vehicles.
[QUOTE=Airwolfe;6581801]I don't know anything about this so don't ask me no questions about it.
.
Lock-Up Kit for GM 700R4 and GM 200-4R
The COMPUSHIFT Mini is a standalone plug-and-play system designed to control the lockup of the torque converter clutch on GM 700R4 and GM 200-4R transmissions. The system uses a miniaturized version of the same control software and electronics as the COMPUSHIFT Sport.
The COMPUSHIFT Mini Torque Converter Lock-Up Kit can be programmed by App on your Smart Device using Bluetooth! The kit ships with all of the parts that should be needed for the installation including COMPUSHIFT Mini, wiring harness, speed sensor and fittings, hydraulic pressure sensor, hook and loop fasteners, terminals and cable ties.
A free downloadable App allows the user adjust and tune for their specific application and diagnose problems should they occur. The easy to read screen can display current vehicle speed, throttle position, transmission pressure, 4th gear/overdrive activity, torque converter clutch engagement (lockup), and allow for further custom tuning. The lock-up controller kit can drive an electronic speedometer as well.
Unlike other lockup control modules that use vacuum switches or a simple delay timer, the COMPUSHIFT Mini uses both the throttle position and vehicle speed to optimize torque converter clutch lock-up control.
Installing the COMPUSHIFT Mini Torque Converter Lock-Up Kit is a straightforward operation if you are familiar with working on cars. No special considerations are needed when driving with the COMPUSHIFT Mini. Properly tuned, your vehicle should have better gas mileage during cruising, and be more responsive to the throttle.
The COMPUSHIFT Mini is IP rated. It also offers CAN bus support.
SUPPORTED TRANSMISSIONS
GM 700R4
GM 200-4R
NOTE: THIS PRODUCT REQUIRES A THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR WHEN USED WITH A CONSTANT PRESSURE VALVE BODY.
This product may not be legal for use in California on pollution controlled vehicles.
I don't know anything about this so don't ask me no questions about it.
.
Lock-Up Kit for GM 700R4 and GM 200-4R
The COMPUSHIFT Mini is a standalone plug-and-play system designed to control the lockup of the torque converter clutch on GM 700R4 and GM 200-4R transmissions. The system uses a miniaturized version of the same control software and electronics as the COMPUSHIFT Sport.
The COMPUSHIFT Mini Torque Converter Lock-Up Kit can be programmed by App on your Smart Device using Bluetooth! The kit ships with all of the parts that should be needed for the installation including COMPUSHIFT Mini, wiring harness, speed sensor and fittings, hydraulic pressure sensor, hook and loop fasteners, terminals and cable ties.
A free downloadable App allows the user adjust and tune for their specific application and diagnose problems should they occur. The easy to read screen can display current vehicle speed, throttle position, transmission pressure, 4th gear/overdrive activity, torque converter clutch engagement (lockup), and allow for further custom tuning. The lock-up controller kit can drive an electronic speedometer as well.
Unlike other lockup control modules that use vacuum switches or a simple delay timer, the COMPUSHIFT Mini uses both the throttle position and vehicle speed to optimize torque converter clutch lock-up control.
Installing the COMPUSHIFT Mini Torque Converter Lock-Up Kit is a straightforward operation if you are familiar with working on cars. No special considerations are needed when driving with the COMPUSHIFT Mini. Properly tuned, your vehicle should have better gas mileage during cruising, and be more responsive to the throttle.
The COMPUSHIFT Mini is IP rated. It also offers CAN bus support.
SUPPORTED TRANSMISSIONS
GM 700R4
GM 200-4R
NOTE: THIS PRODUCT REQUIRES A THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR WHEN USED WITH A CONSTANT PRESSURE VALVE BODY.
This product may not be legal for use in California on pollution controlled vehicles.
Some 700R4's had 4th only torque converter lockup. That was due to the ECM in that vehicle. All 700R4's have the ability in the valve body for 3rd & 4th lockup. The ECM was the only way to get the vehicles to have 4th only lockup. You cannot modify the valve body to have 4th only lockup. The only aftermarket kit that I use for vehicles that did not have torque converter lockup capability. Is the Painless wiring kit for the 700R4. It will have 3rd & 4th lockup at light throttle. If you want 4th only lockup. You would have to put a switch in line to interrupt the current coming from the vacuum switch. So it would not go into lockup till you closed the switch. Now though, with the switch closed, it will go back to locking 3rd and 4th till you remember to switch it off. This would be a pain to remember to do this all the time. If you could use the ECM. You could see if they eliminate the 3rd gear lockup, and save the money needed to buy the Painless setup. If not, I would install the painless kit as is. Shop for the best price on the Painless 700R4 lockup kit. It is simple to install and is "Painless"!
Some 700R4's had 4th only torque converter lockup. That was due to the ECM in that vehicle. All 700R4's have the ability in the valve body for 3rd & 4th lockup. The ECM was the only way to get the vehicles to have 4th only lockup. You cannot modify the valve body to have 4th only lockup. The only aftermarket kit that I use for vehicles that did not have torque converter lockup capability. Is the Painless wiring kit for the 700R4. It will have 3rd & 4th lockup at light throttle. If you want 4th only lockup. You would have to put a switch in line to interrupt the current coming from the vacuum switch. So it would not go into lockup till you closed the switch. Now though, with the switch closed, it will go back to locking 3rd and 4th till you remember to switch it off. This would be a pain to remember to do this all the time. If you could use the ECM. You could see if they eliminate the 3rd gear lockup, and save the money needed to buy the Painless setup. If not, I would install the painless kit as is. Shop for the best price on the Painless 700R4 lockup kit. It is simple to install and is "Painless"!
I'm curious if there is more than one TC, one that doesn't have a TCC but just a normal converter, or the standard TCC one that loc's in 3rd and 4th both or just 4th only ? ? ?
Last edited by mjgord51; Mar 23, 2026 at 08:57 AM.
Good to hear you are still in business. My 396Lt1 in the 1993 C4 you helped get together is just starting to show its age, with a slight vibration in gear only. But, Its fluid is good, shifts great etc.. It was done mid 2000s but rarely drove it in Hawaii. Now back in the states and I drive it about once a week..
Below is a diagram of the way we would wire the Torque Converter Lock-up Circuit with modern wiring practices for Non-Electronic (No PCM) Fourth Gear Automatic-Lock-up with the ability to manually activate Lock-up in Second, Third, or Fourth Gear.
This Circuit will un-lock the Torque Converter if the Brake Pedal is engaged, if accelerating/ placing a load on the Engine, or down shifting out of Fourth Gear.
Otherwise while cruising in Fourth Gear, the Torque Converter will Lock-up:
Yep, there’s a couple ways to accomplish this and I would certainly trust the technical advice from Dana and From vortec, they know it all.
I’m not saying my setup is the way to do it, but it did give me every feature that I wanted in a very simple manual toggle switch. Since I do not use the factory computer ECM and I have a holly sniper I had no way to control converter lock up. I went the easy route and just made it a fully manual trigger system by using the existing fog light switch on my factory dashboard as the switched to control torque converter lock up. I no longer have fog lights so the switch was just basically dead anyway.
Therefore, I can lock the converter up in second or third or fourth gear if I wanted to and I have. I just have to be completely aware that I have the switch activated and make sure that I deactivate it as I accelerate or change gears. I’ve had it this way for about five years and I’ve only failed to remember to deactivate the converter lock up twice.
I’m not saying this is the way that everyone should do it, but it has worked successfully for me and I’ve even experimented with locking up the converter on a chassis Dyno and at the dragstrip many times.
Vorteciroc Is that setup available in a kit form shown here?
We used to produce a complete Wiring Harness with all components...
As well as a DIY kit.
Unfortunately at this time I do not have anything to offer (I was still producing these after my Father passed, but I am also severely ill now, just the same as he was).
I was putting together similar kits before the 2008-2009 GM crisis. From the photo, I thought this was something offered as a complete package.
If you have electrical ventricular tachycardia, as did your father and I. Then I found one drug that will bring the heart rate back to normal and lower blood pressure. The ER and the hospitals did not know about this drug, were not much of a help when trying to get my heart rate numbers down from mid 190's. My rarely used doctor was the one who prescribed it for me about a year ago. It is Verapimal. Verapamil is a medication used to treat high blood pressure, chest pain (angina), and certain heart rhythm disorders. Sometimes when I have the excessive heart rate, this drug works fast, other times a little slower. I did not have the high blood pressure issue, when I have an event as your father had. I hope this can be of help here for you.
Last edited by Pro Built Automatics; Apr 1, 2026 at 08:52 AM.
I was putting together similar kits before the 2008-2009 GM crisis. From the photo, I thought this was something offered as a complete package.
If you have electrical ventricular tachycardia, as did your father and I. Then I found one drug that will bring the heart rate back to normal and lower blood pressure. The ER and the hospitals did not know about this drug, were not much of a help when trying to get my heart rate numbers down from mid 190's. My rarely used doctor was the one who prescribed it for me about a year ago. It is Verapimal. Verapamil is a medication used to treat high blood pressure, chest pain (angina), and certain heart rhythm disorders. Sometimes when I have the excessive heart rate, this drug works fast, other times a little slower. I did not have the high blood pressure issue, when I have an event as your father had. I hope this can be of help here for you.
You are correct, we offered it as a complete package.
I am very sorry to hear of your Cardiovascular issues.
Thank you very much, I am taking a similar type of Calcium channel blocking medication, and will inquire about Verapamil.