best modification for $65
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,065
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From: Tucson, Az, USA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: T5
Get some iroc sway bars on ebay! You could get front and back for that much or less! Or hit up a junkyard for them and the iroc steering box! They make a world of difference.
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Originally posted by V6camaroman
i just did a tune up not that long ago but what about spohn lca relocation brackets. i have stock lca's. mwould they help any. there only $65
i just did a tune up not that long ago but what about spohn lca relocation brackets. i have stock lca's. mwould they help any. there only $65
Traction, forget the LCA's you are not that bad off with the stock ones. If you really want traction gains get the Posi Take off from SLP. 99.95.
You want street performance, get the Iroc Sway set. Nothing beats it. I can vouch from expericance. I have them. I can out corner almost anything on the road now.
Power gains, get the Pully. The chip is worthless and will not give you what the other things can.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You couldn't put the SLP posi unit on. Your '87 axle uses 26 spline axleshafts, you'd need to find a 90-up f-body, and take it's axleshafts. GM started using 28 spline axleshafts (stronger) in all late-89 f-bodies- so if you find an '89, it's a 50/50 chance that the axleshafts are 28 spline. Guaranteed, 90-up's have 28 spline. So you'd also need axleshafts, and to do the install right, you need to recheck the contact pattern of the gears.
Think about adding polyurethane mounting bushings to the sway bars you currently have. An end-link kit is $16 from Summit... that's "per bar", so you would order two. You could also order 34mm mounting bushings for the front bar. You'd have to measure your rear bar, it might be different. I would say to get a trans am rear bar from the junkyard, and keep your front bar. The 85-up 2.8's got a 34mm front bar, which is a good size. (IROC's are 36mm fronts.) Elevario's right about the steering box; I believe I've posted the "casting number" of the quick-ratio steering box on the Suspension/Chassis/Brakes forum. I /think/ it's 26000525, with a "Z" somewhere.
I'd also vote for the pulley over the chip.
You could have your current rear control arms "boxed" by a body shop. They weld a plate of steel over the open end of the "U" channel control arm. This turns it into a stronger "box" shape. (The "U" can flex.) You could also have your panhard rod (track bar) boxed. It shouldn't cost much. It'd cost even less if you bought a strip of steel ($8) from Home Depot and cut it to fit over (not inside, but over!) the "U" in the LCA's. That way, you just need the guy to weld it, he wouldn't have to cut anything. You can see the "U" in the LCA's by looking at the bottom of the LCA's, between your rear tire and body.
Oh yeah, and don't forget a $5 of red spray paint to make those boxed LCA's look good!
Think about adding polyurethane mounting bushings to the sway bars you currently have. An end-link kit is $16 from Summit... that's "per bar", so you would order two. You could also order 34mm mounting bushings for the front bar. You'd have to measure your rear bar, it might be different. I would say to get a trans am rear bar from the junkyard, and keep your front bar. The 85-up 2.8's got a 34mm front bar, which is a good size. (IROC's are 36mm fronts.) Elevario's right about the steering box; I believe I've posted the "casting number" of the quick-ratio steering box on the Suspension/Chassis/Brakes forum. I /think/ it's 26000525, with a "Z" somewhere.
I'd also vote for the pulley over the chip.
You could have your current rear control arms "boxed" by a body shop. They weld a plate of steel over the open end of the "U" channel control arm. This turns it into a stronger "box" shape. (The "U" can flex.) You could also have your panhard rod (track bar) boxed. It shouldn't cost much. It'd cost even less if you bought a strip of steel ($8) from Home Depot and cut it to fit over (not inside, but over!) the "U" in the LCA's. That way, you just need the guy to weld it, he wouldn't have to cut anything. You can see the "U" in the LCA's by looking at the bottom of the LCA's, between your rear tire and body.
Oh yeah, and don't forget a $5 of red spray paint to make those boxed LCA's look good!
i think im gonna go with my first idea and go with the ASP crank pulley. is there any other tricks to installing it or any other thing i should know about it before i get it?
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Hockley, Texas
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 700R4
Nope just un-bolt the pulley or pulley's in my case and bolt the new ones on. That's all you gotta do. BTW another mod would be to make a CAI system if you dont have on already. It ran me bout 50 bucks to do myself.
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