i'm sure that no one probably cares, or even remembers me having an issue with my egr. well, i had a vaccum line that wasn't hooked up, and i couldn't find out where it wnet to, so finally i found another 2.8L (non running) and i traced the hose off that vacuum line. the hose went from a little place next to my egr and into the coil....really freaky, but it worked. engine temps are way down, running about 180 or so on the highway and the same on the street, unlike when it was running an easy 220 on the street with ocassional blasts to 230 or so. not cool, neway just thought i'd share the good news.

 

IT'S AMAZING
How one simple free replacement vacuum hose
can make your day.
Why do you think I KEEP SUGGESTING
Vacuum for solving your problems????
ANY FI engine needs a PERFECT vacuum system to operate correctly.
Learned that back in 1978 on my Opel Fuel Injected Sport Wagon.
You'd be amazed what you learn from a simple vacuum gauge in your car....
FYI
1985 is a ONE YEAR STAND ALONE VACUUM HOSE SYSTEM design.
It is ALMOST identical to it's V-8 BIG BROTHER in routing.
Patch all plastic line cracks with 5/16" windshield wiper hose..
You'd be amazed how well your car will idle after that.
THANK YOU FOR PASSING THE temp. detail.
That's Great to know how effective your fix is.....

 

Is your air conditioning operational with those street temps?
Air dams in place & you run a V-6 or V-8 radiator?
These are important details for me.......

THANKS!!

Did you remove the EGR & clean it?
2 10mm bolts
chip out carbon build up on underside (tiny screwdriver is perfect use), place small amount of oil on the shaft, move/work shaft up & down to "lube it", place back on vehicle.
Use exhaust gasket goo stuff on the gasket.

 

i was sceptical about vacuum cuasing problems too,

till i bout a vacuum guage and relized i had no pressure...

replaced all the lines
the pressure blew out the Purge Cannister Purge Valve
must have been used to no pressure
replaced that, cost me $120 bucks
Car idled better, and is a lot easier to start
Not to mention, no more gas smell

 

i didn't go as far as removing the egr and getting that old carbon out yet...but that might be in line for the near future. I'm just happy to not have an engine code (knock on wood). The car is running a factory airdam (that scrapes on everything, but is still on) and i believe a v6 radiator, although it was replaced about 2 years ago, not sure if it was replaced with a six version or an eight version, would have to check with my father.

 

Rad is simple.
V-8 Really WIDE
Cleaning the carbon outta EGR is like a 15 minute job, ice cold car.
Do you run the AC and get those low temps now?

 

forgot about the AC issue, i actually don't being that i've got a circuit thats short somewhere in the system, so the AC doesn't kick on. And the temps are as follows, on the highway i run at the second line (between the 100 and the 220) on the roads i pull just under the 220 mark, about a mm between 220 and the needle. hope that helps some too.

 

You honestly say
185-220 range
w/o AC.
That helps!

 

awesome, take you're having cooling issues Karl? hey, as far as the radiators go, i was looking at some pics on here, but they were all 3.1L firebirds, the radiator cap was on the passenger side....i konw that mine is on the drivers side, and how "wide" is the v8 radiator in comparisson to that of the v6. just curious.

 

Without opening my hood
Your rad support has two sets of verticle holes.
V-6 (shorter) & the V-8 set, out toward the battery.
Look at current set up, driver side.
IF you see extra holes close by where attached....
you probably have a six radiator.
I'll measure later on.
No, water boiling problems (finally!!). Just running around with out temp gauge or operating idiot light.
Now, fresh fluid, "new" everything, holding level, no boiling, ready to take a chance. It's hot in LA especially with my Wife & 21 month old
I still have to finish Blazer swap before I tackle "little " issues on Firebird (oil leak, dash gauge swap). AC charge, I don't get hands dirty, 2 hour later, chill out! Double checking solving my cooling system for leaks/levels change for one solid month I think paid off. testing occured on 100+* days, too.
Happily, front brake pads are perfect (checked after installing free "new" front tire-now all perfect rubber for only $65! total!).
Onward to my Swap,
Excuse me, Boogin' Stage left....