Ok guys, I read somewhere that when our engine bays get hot, and due to the fact that the starter is right by the exhaust manifold, it will not start once it reaches a certain temp. I live in 90* heat, and i have ram air so a little less air gets to the engine, plus i do i lot of cranking up and shutting off. So the starter gets real hot and wont start when i need it too. Its not even 6 months old. What can I do about this problem? I was thinking maybe something like header wrap on the starter? Or maybe on the manifold if that will cut down alot of the heat? Would that also help performance at all? Appreciate the answers,
Jason

 

sheet metal heat sheild.
heat sheild off of 3.4 starter
or
remote mount solinoid (f*rd style)

 

These starters are great.
Here's what ya do.
GET GREAT REBUILT STARTER!
You must use a DELCO Starter Solenoid.
Nothing else holds up as well.
Make sure your connections are tight & clean.
Try new alternator, also.
Lack of fully charging the battery may be problem.

 

Alternator, battery, and starter were all replaced at same time. THis only happens when engine bay is real hot. Battery holds a charge fine, and both the alt. and starter have been taken off the car and tested. 99.999% sure the problem is with the heat.

 

What happens when it gets too hot on you? Do you hear a click? I don't know how much I "buy" that our starters have a fit when they're hot... in 235,000 miles, I've never had a heat soak problem with any of my starters.

I wonder if your VATS is acting up...?

 

IF you own a 1968 Pontiac Firebird with the 400 Cubic inch engine and 10.25 compression ratio,
You have heat soak starter problems, big time.
I replaced my Firebird starters every three months back then.
NOT FUN and those starter puppies are HEAVY.
These V-6 things?
You're lucky if you're generating 8 to 1 compression.
My 95 3.4 have 9.25 compression. Newer block, higher compression.
Connections and flaky wiring are your problems.
Flaky wires show up big time in high heat.

 

Karl, you need a 400 vintage 76-77. I've owned both. only had to change the bonnie's last year out of strife, & not really troubleshooting. got lifetime warranty on it though.

 

My time frame was 1981 to 1983.
I had lifetime warrantlies, also.
I got tired of replacing starter motors & motor mounts.
BUT that 68 Firebird was the FASTEST RIDE I EVER OWNED
I MAY HAVE LEAD ON THAT OLD FIREBIRD.
Insurance company I had back then may have VIN number. I never know..... Will find out in mail soon.

 

This happens to me only when my engine temp hits *220. All though I think Karl may be on the right track. A rebuild may be in order. I got under the car and look at the starter and solinoid. They were oily as hell from the oil leak I fixed 6 months ago. Oil cn screw up the starter and solinoid enough to give you problems. I haven't gotten the gumption to rebuild the starter and solinoid yet. For now when I fear that it may not start I leave my G/F in the car running while I take a pee break.

Karl once posted the part number for the AC Delco solinoid spring kit. So you should be able to search for it.

 

i actually had this problem also, the sileniod is getting to hot, plain and simple, this is the third starter that i have had in 1 1/2 years. it sucks knowing that your car may not start. jegs and summit both sell heat shield wraps and these should help considerably. the header wrap idea, in theory should work. you figure with lower temperatures in the engine bay should produce much more power, no?

 

When this happens, there is no click. Absolutely no sound at all. I am thinking maybe it has something to do with that wire from the battery to the starter, since it passes right by the manifold. The one there before i replaced the starter had a chunk melted out of it. This one looks ok as far as I can see though.

And by the way...whats a VATS?

 

Vehicle Anti Theft System. It's the little black chip (just a resistor) in your ignition key. Look under thirdgen.org's tech section for bypassing vats, and search for vats on the general tech board. If the contacts that touch the key chip (inside the ignition switch) get worn out, and don't touch the chip, the car thinks you're trying to steal it, and won't start... thus, no click.

mw66, I'd leave header wrap alone for a street driven car. A guy named James with a 3.8 4th gen used header wrap- his engine caught on fire.

Plus, if you guys take a look, our starter isn't really near the exhaust manifold like it would be on a big v8 with headers. It's far enough away from the exhaust.

 

You need to do the dirty.
Start checking all connections, then possibly remove the starter, clean/check/rebuild-install rebuilt (if ya get them for life time warranty, eliminate the possible problem).
I've had to rewire/replace ignition switches because of past owners.

 

TomP,

The starter it self is far enough away from the exhaust manifold, but the soleniod on top is only about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch away from the exhuast. This is were the problem is. An old and worn / dirty as hell starter solenoid will suffer from this.

 

good gracious tomp, i had no idea that running header wrap would do that! disregard my ignorance!

 

Don't forget how well it helps prematurely rust the piping, too. Retains moisture and dries on the pipes. Lovely.
I do use asbestos wrapped around the spark plug boots on my 1974 Corvette. Held on my stainless steel safety wire. Been like that since 1996. It's an old Smokey Yunick trick I saw he used on the 1968 Trans Am Camaro he built.
Prevents header burns on the wiring close by headers.
Works perfect.