Well folks, sorry I have been gone. I have had some personal problems that needed to be delt with. Got them fixed over the weekend, WHEW I took the car to the tranny shop today, Should be done in a few days. I already miss it But while I was driving it in, the temp was fine for a while, then it got to 210, then 230, then 250, I was like WHOA, I get to the tranny shop right at 260 and turn it off and I hear gurggling coming from under the hood, the rad cap just opened. I have done a COMPLETE coolent swap, new cap, stat, fluid, flush. What is wrong here?? What part is bad?? Also it felt kinda loose in the rear, I havent been under the back of the car yet to see if it even has a sway bar, or bad shocks. Also when I hammer the gas from take of, it lifts up front, drops the back, and CLUNK, WTF?? I am PRAYING its the rotten muffler banging around. Any Ideas. I also saw my name mentioned in another post, anyone got questions for me, feel free. downndirtys10@yahoo.com

 

if upi are talkingabout the '91 then you definatly have sway bars, i think from 85-92 had the sway bars on them, i know i have them, front and back., and i have an 86, the banging could be the muffler or an <B>EXTREMELY</B>bad shock maybe

 

Ten to one odds are your trans mount is shot causing the clunk on acceleration. Maybe an air pocket was in the cooling system?

 

I have the same sound on take off and it shakes the whole car, like the diff is slipping. Could that be?

 

I dunno. My 83 does the same thing but I'm getting the gasket changed and may have them throw a poly trans mount in as well. If that stops it, I'll let you know

 

I have had the same problem in the past. It would clunk really hard if you gave it much gas. It was my tranny mount which, I think, cost about 20 bucks at AutoZone. I could be wrong, but I don't think that any of the V-6 cars came with limited slip differentials from the factory, and this probably wouldn't give you that symptom anyway. If you do have different size tires on the rear end, it will cause a harsh vibration at highway speeds, but won't give you the clunk you are hearing.

About your overheating problem... is your electric fan coming on? Also, is your front air dam (the black plastic one) torn off? The plastic one is on there to scoop up air and force it through the radiator, so that your temperature will stay steady going down the road. The fan not coming on could be a bad fan motor, a bad relay, or maybe a bad temperature sensor. I would say to make sure that it is working properly. I am assuming that your car has an electric fan, since I am not completely sure when they changed over. Anyway, I hope that this helps a bit.

 

Ok, thanks for all the replys. Hopefully if its the tranny mount they will call or go ahead and replace. As for overheating, the air dam down below, belive it was in fairly good condition. I bought the early fan kick on sensor (yes its elec), and plan on putting that in when I get the car back. When I filled the system up I had the heater on, and it was blowing what seemed to be hot air (of couse it is hot as a MF here) so I will check the heater, replace the sensor, check my tb bypass, and I am going to go ahead and put a new rad cap on it. It should have released before 260!!!! Also, my muffler came in today, neighbor called me and said, theirs a HUGE box on my pourch, HEHE, I know what that is!!! So I have alot of work to do when I get it back. Any other suggestions??

 

Could it be a possible air pocket underneath the thermo? That would stop the thermostat from opening, the bottom needs to be touching water, not air. I drill two holes in the outer "ring" of the thermostat... here's a pic (well actually a crappy drawing) I posted here before. The holes let the air go "up" into the hose instead of forming a pocket under the thermo. And you get the added benefit of running a half degree cooler

 

I don't think its the fan, b/c unless you were doing a lot of slow and stop and go driving, the air dam would have pushed enough air up in there to keep it around 180-190. I would suggest checking out the air dam (I had insane cooling problems because of this) and also TomP's suggestion.

Jason

 

I am quite sure the air dam is good, it ran and stayed at one temp for quite some time, I turned it off to get gas, then it just kept getting hotter and hotter. Tom, what size holes to you recommend? I seen some in a ford stat one time, I was like WTF?? But now I know Does everyone agree that the rad cap should have opened before 260 degrees?? And now I have my muffler in for it, WOOHOO, so happy Plus I got another modification done to my dodge tonight. Gotta wait 100-150 miles to see how responsive it is now. Again, thanks for the thoughts.

 

Sounds to me like TomP is right, and you have air under the thermostat, or somewhere in your system. The radiator cap is probably OK. It responds to pressure, not to temperature. If there is a large amount of air in your system, it will take a much higher temperature to make the cap relieve the system. Air is compressible, while liquids are not. The cap probably would open around 235 F if the system was totally full of coolant. I wouldn't replace the cap if it were me. I think that I would let the car idle for a long time with the radiator cap off, and make sure that you see coolant flowing through the radiator. Once you see that, then turn the heater on, add coolant until it is topped off, and put the cap back on there. That is how I 'burp' the system, and it has always worked well for me. Good luck!