Dale

iTrader: (12)

stall right in the middle of an intersection and not start again. I have lots of fuel pressure. Check engine light is blown so as of now I can't see if there is a trouble code. I did notice on the EGR a bolt is missing and is/was blowing gasses out the side. Will that make it stop running??? Need Help FAST!!!!!!!!!!

CaliCamaroRS

An external EGR leak shouldn't cause a stall.

Check for spark at 2 plug wires and at the coil wire.

AFrikanGoodTime

A broken timing chain.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Ok, got the CEL working, and it spit out code 32, egr. I replaced it, a vacume line, and 2 spark plug wires. Reset the brain, but now every time I got to start it, it takes 2 trys I'm thinking fuel pump fixing to go out, or injectors are starting to leak??

I am thinking if it continues after the brain should have reset itself getting a FP guage and checking that.

Any other ideas??

AFrikanGoodTime

You just stated up top that you had "lots of fuel pressure"?

If you want help then you need to get your facts straight

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I pressed the "nozzle" as soon as I got done cranking. It sprayed major fuel. If my injectors are leaking, it will cause a drop in pressure. It will still spray even then. I have read that these are very sensative to fuel pressure. If im like 5lbs under, I read they dont run right. Plus that was typed before I got majorly into repairing this.

KED85

Here's something I learned about the "Ol Faithful" theory of that "Sputz" coming outta the nozzel.
It ain't a gauge.
YOU NEED A GAUGE.
Honest
Really
Need a gauge.
Low pressure fuel pump can still "sputz" the fuel from there.
Ya need to use a gauge to read accuratly.
I learned the hard way, too.
I ended up replacing my pump, when gauges, it "sputz'd" about 10 pounds, not the 45 or so it should.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

so Ked, your confiriming my thought, I need to get a guage and see if its getting low. Thanks, will do this next weekend.

KED85

I would not suggest the "Sputz" test when the fuel pump works correctly.
May cause blindness (fuel splashing into your eyes).
Get a gauge, it'll show ya what's happening.
It's good to change fuel pumps before an engine swap, too.
Better running swap project end results!

Dale

iTrader: (12)

It broke again this morning. So I got a guage, tested at 45lbs, and didnt drop after 5 min. Got code 15, eng. temp. sensor, changed it. Keeping fingers crossed.!!!!!!!!

90FirebirdV6

I had a problem similar, where it would start fine in the morning but when the engine got hot if i turned the car off, then back on it took several times for it to finally turn over, i changed the engine coolant temp sensor and it fixed the problem.

JadesAn89

I am swapping out a 2.8 for a 3.1 tomorrow and tuesday (i have to work tomorrow so it's a 2 day project ) How hard is it to change the fuel pump and about how much do they cost? I'll look it up also, but wanted some input from the trusty V6 Board here...

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I hear a fuel pump is a pita cause its in the tank. I was SOOOOOO glad mine wasn't bad. We just put a full tank of gas in it the night before.

TomP

Glad to hear it's not the pump.. it's not a fun job, especially if you do it twice. Now the flow rate could also be down and you could still get adequate pressure, but that's an unlikely scenario, usually the two go hand-in-hand (low pressure & low fuel flow).

JadesAn89, both the 2.8 multiport and the 3.1 multiport motors use the same fuel pump, so you're okay. (AC/Delco part #EP240.)

KED85

Gas tank pumps
NO FUN AT ALL!
Hope ya got the 3.1 for dirt cheap.
Plan on more than two days.
Happy wrenching!
PS take off every sensor ya can, clean the part that enters into water passages. It helps.
I spent one whole day alone, on hose reconnections.
Was worth that effort.
Vacuum hose reconnection is the biggest problem & easiest & cheapest to solve.
Electrical problems always cost money!