Heres my 3.4l

It needs a timing chain, it is quite loose.
Needs the belt tensioner (out side un-belt one)
Needs the gasted that goes in the timing chain housing cover.
Needs the left casted motor mount.
Other then that, so far looks good.


give me your thoughts on it. Leave it black, paint it orange, any tips or tricks.

BTW, dont see why I would have to pull timing chain cover to take pan off

 

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Nice score!
I like to paint heads with DH 1606 aluminum and compliment the block to the cars color or if its a white car I use the interior color.

 

Sweet! yeah, I like to do the engine based on the car's color as well...

Black car + black/grey interior + black engine... mmmm :hail:

 

nice find I found that blue(s) & aluminum look good on a 3.4

also, you see that space left by the a/c delete option, I think the right sized supercharger would just be totally awesome to sit right in there :rockon:

 

well, truck is currently 2 tone purple, and silver, plan to make it pearl white.

Underhood "trim" is gonna be blue. I have gotten alot of good responses with my engine being chevy engine orange right now. With cast iron gray heads. Debating on that.

Thanks for the thoughts, please keep them coming.

 

ON the passenger side rear head, that white spot by the bracket, that is the plug to be removed.
Cast motor mounts
You use the current vehicle motor mount system
You remove & toss those purchased big black cast pieces.
You have a modern truck where I have an old style Chevy truck which is why I went old Chevy Orange for mine & black valve covers, media blasted aluminum.

Once installed, you really won't see block, just intake & heads.
Looks good.
But the compression gauge tells the story as you adjust the valves after intake swaps.

 

Thanks for looking KED

Rem, im keeping current setup, and dropping in whole engine. So we werent sure as to if that plug had to be removed.

I like them cast motor mounts, and since I'm keeping current set up, with AC, I think I have to use them.

In my bay, you can see quite a bit of the block, so I think I am gonna try and paint it orange, I think it looked good, and I get alot of comments.

 

You know I painted this 3.4 for the Blazer old Chevy Orange and you do have a truck.
The Voice of Chevrolet Trucks has Passed.
James Coburn is gone.
Flints flame has extinguished.

If you need that mount I believe I have mine not being used.
I'd suggest the proper vehicle motor mount system.
My Carb'd version 2.8 air cleaner hit the hood of my S-10.
When they swap in V-8s problem arrises as the V-8, taller & larger, so they sink, not raise engine, to close the hood. Even channeling the frame to fit better. I was gonna swap in a V-8 mill.....

NOW
A Hood scoop & those tall metal mounts........

Check the engine bay of a 4th gen to see why they "need" that design motor mount. I am not sure why.
As I've said, everything lines up right using old 60* V-6 stuff. Mix & match until just right, many options.
IT'S CUSTOM ENGINE SWAP FEED ME MONEY AND PARTS!
MORE, MERE MORTAL, MORE PARTS!

 

On that plug,
suggestion?
remove it NOW while it's way easy.
You can WAY EASIER
reinsert a NEW plug any time later on!
Welding on larger extension piece to grab, twist works great!
Or get special tool from Snap-on, Mac tools.
Reason it's difficult to remove?
It's cast metal plug, "rusted" into head, by now, by water passage in head it closes off.
Count on friends stopping by & betting who can remove it!
PS Grinding down "something" to fit, is wasted effort.
I gave ya biggest tip & my two times, oh boy.....
Latest one took me about one hour to remove with proper helper!

 

WOOHOO, just found out I do have to use the s10 fly wheel over, so that means I will use s10 starter, to make sure it all lines up. I'm so happy, less $ I gotta spend, and can make some back from starter and fly wheel.:lala: :lala: :lala: :lala:

 

mine went hainesly wrong, & I got an atermarket fan controller/relay. I believe it's set to come @ 175 & off @ 160.

I can also turn it on anytime I want by turning the climate controller to a/c. The fan is wired to come on then. cost me like $30 or so, but works

 

You found a GREAT ALTERNATIVE!

 

I remember that damned plug... tried grinding down a bolt to fit into it, might've worked if the bolt was ground down perfectly square and not at an angle. So the plug's square hole got trashed. I had to run home and get my MIG:

 

That is WAY too low. You're gonna stay in Open Loop, the idle will be high, and your gas milage will suck.

 

found the paperwork, comes on @ 185 off @ 165

 

TOM, welcome back :hail: :hail: I thought something happened to ya. Hope everything is fine.