ok, this car still has cold start problems, and is pissing me of very much!! Heres what I've done, PLEASE help me. I'm getting very tired of trying to fix this damn thing.

Spark, no getting laser blue spark.
1. swapped coils
2. ICM replaced
3. Rebuilt distrib, some parts are still rusted.
4. Cap/rotor good
5. New pick up coil
6. Wires are around 3mo old
7. Swapped plugs
8. Fixed wires to coil.

Fuel, tested many times, get between 40-44 psi every time
9. New pump, v8
10. Filter is around 5mo old
11. Swapped regulators
12. Went to 17lb injectors, still acted up, went back to stocks
13. Took that little "ball" out of the line buy front of intake

Air
14. Installed TPI intake with new filters

Other crap
15. New ECM with prom chip
16. New IAC
17. New Battery
18. New Alt
19. New Belt
20. New Belt tensioner
21. Checked vacume, fine
22. New T-stat
23. Swapped ECT
24. Gutted Cat
25. Swapped Starters
26. repaired wires to starter, had green crap on them.
27. New battery cables, + and -
28. New EGR
29. Disabled SRS while doing all this


Heres the kicker, every time I try putting a new TPS in, it ALWAYS, ALWAYS spits out a code 22, but whenever I put the one that has always been in the car, no code??


I guess all thats left is TPS and Emissons crap?? Where should I start now???

 

Could your PROM chip have something to do with it? Maybe it's not programmed quite right.....is it a custom job or just some replacement? And..the new TPS throws a 22 even WITH the ECM reset? And..what temperature is your t-stat? My friend's running a 160 and his is hell in cold weather..doesn't wanna start or run at all.

 

OEM replacement ecm with stock chip.

It had 185 in it, put a 195 back in cause the heater wasnt warm enough.

Yes, throws a code 22 even after reseting the ecm, and even after puting new ecm in car, still throws code 22.

 

A code 22 is tps low. The value required in BCC AZTY ('92 auto) has: requires < 0.196V and engine running to throw that code.

Can check this with a DVM at the TPS sensor.

As for the hard start has it always done this? If so check the memcal for the letters AZTY (auto) or BAWX (stick). They are the latest calibrations.

Another cause may be carbon buildup on the backs of the intake values. It absorbs the fuel for a while causing the hard start.

RBob.

 

The car has been having cold start problems for the past few weeks off and on.

I checked the tps voltage a while back with my old dial meter, and checked fine. I now have a dvm but havent checked it yet.


Would the tps cause hard starting problems??

I also read on here that the tps is also in relation to some kinda fuel cutoff relay. Where is that?

I rem seeing azty somewhere on one of the ecms.

How would I go about cleaning the carbon off the valves?? That sounds very possible since its been cold and I had to large of injectors in it for a while for testing reasons.

 

if i were you, once i got it started, id look for the nearest garage that offers a Carbon Clean...its a system from Snap-On that cleans your engine and fuel lines, its pretty inexpensive, but im 90% positive it will fix your problem as well as restore all lost horsepower (we have one at my work, and HOLY $hit)

 

check your wires with an ohm meter, I bet they are bad. or 1-2 of them are bad. 3 months is enough time fo them to go bad if something else was weak in the system.

 

if the wires have white marks on them, they are arching...thatll do it

 

92RS: That Carbon Clean system works that well? If it does I'm gonna have to hunt a shop down with that around here. Mine needs a THOROUGH cleaning...but fuel injector cleaners don't do crap for me and I don't trust additives...

 

ill explain it:
it is a machine that gets hooked up to your fuel lines witha chemical mixed with gas. they run your car on it for about an hour (when you get it done, tell them you want it to be run for 45 min.) and it throws a cleaning agent though your engine, and cleans all the carbon off the sensors etc etc. then the mechanic (or you if you are sitting there) take it out and blow the engine out (go WOT for like 5 min fluctuating speed) to blow the carbon out. it cleans the sensors so well...my idle used to fluctuate from 650 to 475 and i ran that machine and now it sits at a DEAD STOP at 650 and i have an aftermarket tach. only down side (well not really a downside) you have to change the plugs after you get the service done, and you can look at the plugs and actually see all the $hit in your engine. once again, if you can find a place that has it (its actually called Motor Vac) get it done, its pretty awesome service...great for higher-milage engines, but good for all engines...if ya lived anywehre near NJ id say bring it to my shop haha

 

DETAILS
EXPLAIN
"Cold Start Problems"
Does it take over three engine cranks to fire?
Does it almost fire, catch, then idle rough?

Dale, you have emptied the store of the parts you "need"!

 

Sounds a little scary of a procedure but if it works, well hey then... Lol..my idle blows. Don't know my RPMS...but the engine CONSTANTLY shudders and vibrates.

What's your shop charge for it?

 

itll fix your idle..and mine starts on a dime now. we do it in correlation with a tune up, but stand alone, i think it cant me any more than 80 bucks....i wanna say 50 tho
its well worth it

 

Wow...cheap for how complicated that procedure sounds. Mine starts on a dime every time..but idle just sucks. Fires up after 1 crank.

 

Hey all I'm the famous "MRS" of dales..


This morning it took about 5 mins to start it.

Started out not wanting to turn over at all.
Wait a few, crank it again, turns over but wont start.
Wait a few more crank it and it tries to start, sounds really rough, but dies.

wait a few more, crank it, it starts idles fine.

Yesterday while driving it home it heastating from take off a couple of times, but today drove fine.

 

3. Rebuilt distrib, some parts are still rusted.

Explain, as I THINK this is the location of the problem.

Not strong enough spark as the system is "tested" by cold, thus poor idle, also

 

I don't see why it wouldn't turn over at all to start with, although I guess that could be the battery being affected by the cold..not enough cold cranking amps to turn the starter....

And I did not know you two were together! Righteous...the official ThirdGen.org couple....how cuuuuuute...

 

I agree with Karl on that it sounds like ignition. Hesitating on take off...ignition probably couldn't burn off all the gas it got...that causes bog. Mine does this now and then..my distributor guts are rusted to hell and I've got the original coil with 106,000 miles on it.

 

How can I say it. The "crown" or them 6 long things stick up are rusted.

Then also the their are 6 little "tabs" that point down, them are also rusted which I belive is under the pickup coil.

Was also thinking, we are having little colder then usuall temps this weekend.

I still like the sound of that carbon blow out. But am getting short on funds as you see the list above.

I'm still pissed/puzzled at the code 22 thing.


Yep, thats the "MRS" that posted

 

maybe you just need a new battery dude

 

already did, see item 17

 

BINGO!!
WE GOT A WINNER!

Break out distributor and start cleaning again.
THOSE RUSTED CONTACTS PASS ENERGY/CREATE BETTER SOURCE FOR HIGH ENERGY.
IF "DIRTY" well, just like bad.......

Two choices...
SIMPLE TOO!
Go to parts store
ASK FOR A REPLACEMENT DISTRIBUTOR
LOOK AT CONDITION OF THEIR INTERNALS (the parts YOU YOURSELF, DALE, question).
DUPLICATE IT AT HOME OR ya gotta buy this one.
YOU MAY BE ABLE TO "CLEAN" YOURS
PERHAPS IT'S SO RUSTED, you may not win.

NOW onto other details.

Starting.
YOUR WIRING TO THE GROUNDS FOR STARTING ARE POOR.
DID YOU USE A STAR WASHER (NOT LOCK WASHERS!!) better THICK battery cables and ground on the engine block?
Dale rememeber I had starting problems on my 85 Truck block?

When I FINALLY "DID IT RIGHT"

*CLEAN ENGINE BLOCK PAINT FOR SECURE GROUND STAR WASHER TO CUT INTO THE BATTERY CABLE CONTACT THAT DOESN'T LOOSEN UNDER USAGE!
*I SANDED ALL ENDS TO CLEAN COPPER/STEEL, MADE SURE I HAD CLEAN BOLTS. Wire brush the bolt BY HAND, not removing a coating, just cleaner!

Back under the hood my friend.

Bad weather conditons cause these problems.
Your work SEEMS not to be through enough, YET, it's ok and correct.
MEANING you're on right track, need to do it again (ground wiring to engine BLOCK NOT ANOTHER/OTHER GROUNDING POINT****ENGINE BLOCK!), wiring to starter, clean contacts, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE STAR WASHERS.

IF NOT SURE ON WHERE STAR WASHER GOES, it goes
battery wire to engine block (clean both surfaces), star washer, then SHOULDERED bolt.
YOU WILL KNOW IT'S RIGHT, when ya cannot twist or loosen by hand
THE BATERY CABLE! If done outta this "order' it loosens by hand!

You are using the original GM shouldered bolt for the ground to engine block, RIGHT!?

CHECK TO BE SURE ALL CONTACTS TO STARTER ARE WELL DONE, PROPER & CLEAN!
SAME WITH CABLE CONNECTIONS TO BATERY


Next is the distributor.
YOUR STAR CONTACT POINTED STUFF AREN'T CLOSE ENOUGH (they need to be SO CLOSE, that they DO NOT CONTACT, YET
ya hear it "CLICK")
Eyes work perfect for this detail.
CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CKEAN
or find a better subject to fix or obtain used distributor stuff from a yard, HAVE MEDIA BLASTED CLEAN (radiator shop can hanlde that) and reassemble or obtain other distributor from parts store.

HEAT TESTS BAD WIRING
COLD TESTS BAD WIRING
RUST BETWEEN CONTACTS TESTS YOUR PATIENCE!

I'd send ya some Los Angeles weather, yet......
if you do not have the original GM bolts or CLEAN STAR WASHERS GO BUY THEM!
Or go to yard, look for any stuff from mid 80's cars and you'll see what I mean.
After this is done, you should be just great
& the MRS, too!

You need to duplicate the way the factory did this wiring set up.
And Energy path (distb) NEEDS to be better.
Ya can't cheat as you now know the results.....

Nixon is right on the chugging upon starting (fouled plugs by too much gas caused by turning over & no start).
Let us know.
After I had my 3.4 swap Blazer starting problems, I spent time to correct my errors.

I'll be igniting the 3.4 in Blazer, I believe, this week.

 

Thanks ked.

I used oginal bolt/nut on the block for grounding after I sprayed cleaner on it. It was major pita to get off.

Wire is same size. I layed them next to eachother.

Starter, the washer is built onto nut.

Appears I will have to buy whole new distrib, because I sanded on them parts, and that crap wasn't coming off. Some of the tabs/crowns were bent also.

Why would I be getting laser blue spark if it wasn't doing what its supp to??

 

so your Dis. is rusted inside and out??? are you for real, your not just spoofing us are you.

[we seam to have allot of spoofers around here as of late.]

no parts should be rusted in there, I am having doubts as if your cap and rotor are good also. If you think rusted part in the dis are ok, what do you think a good cap n rotor looks like???

you need a complete tune up of all new parts, [cap,rotor,wire n plugs] or get a second opnion form a friend or neighbor who knows car. Let someone else look at the parts n judge if they are good or not.

oey-vey

 

I know cars. I didn't like the rusted parts in their, but I also don't have 150+ to replace them. The car sat for almost a year before I bought it.

I do know what a good cap/rotor looks like. their is no carbon tracking, no melted areas, all places look almost like they did when I bought them.

I took pic of distrib, but was very fuzzy. If you wish, when I get home I will try to find them and post.

 

ok, found a pic. I guess I can use it.

The gray "gear" thing in the middle, The = of that is rusted.

Also the lighter gray "feelers", the = of that is rusted on mine also.

 

The spark from the plug wire to plug is to be
BRIGHT LIGHTENING BOLT WHITE
NOT ANY BLUISH TINT AT ALL.

There is a problem.
Those contacts under the distb can be "bent" GENTLY by hand pressure.

Check the engine ground stuff & button that up.
Ya got the good stuff, it seems.
After that the car should easliy continue to turn over, without a worry.

Next is remove the distributor, GO "FIND A REBUILT ONE" at a parts store, look at it, FOR COMPARISON, Make yours match what ya see.
No rust should be there at all.
DIRTY, SURE, BUT a knife, sand paper, file should remove most questionable "stuff".
MAKE THE CONTACTS CLOSE, to almost hear a"CLICK" as points pass each other, BUT NOT TOUCH.

Need to see a "GOOD" REBUILT distributor to see where your distributor errors are. Then correct or make the judgement call.

Glad you took time to type out answers so we can assist better!

 

Hey, when someone is giving me honest truthful help, and no lip, I am happy to assist in anyway. I will be the one gaining.

I thought spark should be blue

I personally belive this distrib is to wasted to work on between rust and bent parts. Time to start saving. I have friend who can get me one for 115 CASH after core charge. But I will want/have to swap my accel module out. I think I got the stock one somewhere.

I guess no one on the gen tech board caught what you have ked. I guess it pays to FULLY read what a person types.

When them "crowns" and "tabs" were bent, I did take needle nose plyers and pry them back into place. Then used a feeler guage and attempted to guage them all the same.

 

Here is my guess..You say there is a little bit of rust inside the distibutor right...there is a very good chance that your distributor cap has a moisture crack. If moisture gets inside that cap it can, and will cause a very fine crack in the cap from the spark arcing inside. This will cause a lot of starting and running problems. For the price of a new cap "again" I would try to replace it and the rotor again. Try this and see what happens, it is the cheapest route so far...

 

It was rusted when I got the car. Had to put new cap/rotor, plugs, battery, wires, gas, fuses and drive it home in 2nd gear.

Car sat for over year before I got it. But I do know about the cracked coils. The one on the very first ride I drove had starting/running issues. Dad later figured that one out and was soooooo pissed. Of course that was after I took the ditch to miss the school bus. I just have 3 feet to drive a manual when it wont idle

 

For under $10 I would still try it..your car , your money..But what if the moisture that rusted the dis. to begin with got all over the new cap you put on and cracked it too.. Try the new cap and rotor, and see what happens

 

Ya know, I thought the spark was supposed to be blue too. But hey..white..even better. Blue = colder temperature than white
Ever see a white flame? Probably not...way too hot....except maybe at the very starting point on a welding torch or something.

You know, I'm gonna have to check this distributor stuff out now.. My car runs fine but has a nasty idle, and I remember when I took my cap and rotor off I stood back and went 'wow......', scratched my head, cursed once or twice, and put the new one on.... Rusty rusty rusty! My old cap was a piece of crap...saw a big difference in engine operation when I swapped it out.

 

DON'T FORGET
to add to our equation,
the corossiveness
of the Florida Atlantic Ocean salt air environment.

I have the same salt water air, yet of the Pacific Ocean.
YES this little detail sure does matter!
NO a crack in the cap doesn't matter.
Salt water in the air seeps, creeps into ALOT of electrical devices, no matter how hard ya try to keep it out.

 

For your info, and not to stir up a arguement. But where did you learn how to work on cars...Sure as hell a crack in the distributor cap WILL cause problems..It can cause the sprk to jump around inside the cap itself. I will not argue this "fact" with you cause you obviously don't have proof to back yourself up. I have seen many problems with Distributor caps after engine shampoos. Reason being, is moisture gets under the cap, you try to start the car/truck, the spark bounces around inside the cap in directions it is not suppose to. This can cause a very fine crack, sometimes not noticable to the naked eye even. This crack in the cap indefinately cause bad idle, starting problems, and a engine that just doesn't run right...People then chase after every Tom, Dick and Harry part, scratching there heads..."what's wrong with my car?" And all it is...is a couple of parts costing less then $10. Buy the parts, in isn't going to brake the bank. Ked85 I thought you were more knowledgeable then that? What gives?

 

Who are you refuring to Cruzin Kaz??

The truck I refured to having a cracked cap, I was not allowed to work on. It was not my ride.

As I told you before, the cap is new, the parts were rusted BEFORE I got the car.

Ask karl about some of our emails. I know how to work on cars. Go look at my website, you will see less then 20% of the work I have done in my life. I'm sure if you look at mini trucks, you will see work I have done.

My first car was purchased AFTER burning to the ground because a "reputable" shop forgot to put a o-ring in a fuel line. Car was toast. I spent a whole summer rebuilding my first car from engine to paint.

I was part owner/operator of a custom automotive shop.

so if your refurning to me on "where did you learn to work on cars" I suggest you know more about me before you spit of smart *** comments like that.

 

You know what...SCREW it..Look Dale re read my last post..I quoted Ked85, not you. I was in no means talking to you what so ever, now the only person shotting of at the mouth is you, the person who didn't read the post very well. I am sick and tired of trying to help someone with other people screwing things up..


Dale I don't care if you put a new cap on it when you got it...ther was probably still moisture in the thing when you put the new cap on, with that it may have cracked you new cap. I am done trying to help here. To many cooks in the kitchen.. As for Me knowing more then whoever, "I DON'T give two craps if you think you know more then me" I am sick of trying to help people her and all they do is say "no that isn't it I know it" Well if you knew what the problem was you would not be asking for help..would you. SO! with that said if you really wan to get you car fixed,.. go buy a G>O>D Damn cap and rotor and try the damn thing out. If it doesn't solve the problem, at least it was only $10 fricking dollars. If you still would like my help in trying to solve your problem go buy these parts and try it..If it doesn't solve your problem, then come back and say so , and we can go on from there without all the " I know more then you BS"
Sorry for the rant, but I am sick of peopl not reading the posts and Crapping on me for what they did not read.

P.S. I most likely do know more then you, cause I am the one answering questions, and you are the one asking. You won't get much help here, talking to people like that.

Keiran

 

Let's calm down.

Sure as hell a crack in the distributor cap WILL cause problems. It can cause the spark to jump around inside the cap itself. I will not argue this "fact" with you cause you obviously don't have proof to back yourself up. I have seen many problems with Distributor caps after engine shampoos. Reason being, is moisture gets under the cap,

THIS STATEMENT IS 100% TRUE.

MYSELF,
chatting with Dale by email,
WE KNOW,
his problem is NOT LIKE THIS
AS
THE
PROBLEM
DID NOT
OCCUR
AFTER AN ENGINE WASH.

Perhaps that detail was not stated prior.

SURE A CRACK cap can cause problems, Dale & myself know more details. And if I recall, in Dales FIRST POST he never stated this problem occured AFTER AN ENGINE BAY WASH. I re-read Dales FIRST POST SEVERAL TIMES to make sure I understood all the details & attempted solutions.

Dale & I believe we have figured out the solution.

The magnet in the distb is cracked & was reassembled that way. I rebuilt my distributor so long ago, I forgot that detail to help Dale better. In my distb. rebuild, I cracked that item and was told to replace it, which I did.

BELIEVE ME I'M AN IDIOT HERE.
YET, I read the threads THROUGHLY to understand before I attempt to assist.
AND IF I'M WRONG, I accept my error and state so in my response. Ask many/anyone here, they know.

And Thanks Tom for the spelling corrections!

I noticed your location.
Living by the Pacific Ocean (literally at the edge of the Continental United States) in Marina Del Rey, Venice & Santa Monica, CA, you wouldn't believe how damaging the salt water is in the air (fog!). It can seep into lots of places even without a "crack" to help.
Heat expansion & contraction is the "magic" ingredient. I have a stereo amp that is damaged, as the salt water in the air, FOG, shorted out some circuits, cause the unit sat by a window. Same out here, holds true for computers. I'm now 25 plus miles away from the Pacific Ocean. I still have the salt water in the fog that gets out here. Anyone living by the Pacific or Atlantic Oceans knows this is true. Your location, you would never see this example of "damage".

 

I was only refering to the engine shampoo as a example. I am Clam and I appologize for the way I reacted, but people have been gettin really weird on here lately.

Let's start over here. You say the distributo has rust in it?? So, when Dale bought it he had to put new cap, rotor etc. on it. Once you did this you drove it home, and it would only go into 2nd gear, or Dale drove it in 2nd gear home, probably cause it wasn't running right. Correct??? Let say that the moisture that caused that rust was still in the distributor when you put the new cap on and started it up, the moisture that was in the dis. got thrown up onto the new cap, causing a crack. This would and could explain why it drove like crap when taking it home.

How long has the car sat around since you put the new cap and rotor on it??? We will start again from here an move forward.


Ked....please don't get the wrong idea here either, I have always thought you knew your stuff. That is why I was confused when you said a crack in the cap won't cause a problem.

 

Like I say alot, I'm an idiot.
I do what I can to pass off looking smarter!
My distb. when I got my car, also had rust in the distb. area.
I "worked it off" added new parts and it seems to have vanished.

Like I said, I did re-read the first thread alot, cause it's so detailed.

I was able to work around my distb. "rust" and be fine.
Dale, he broke a part & I forgot that detail, too.

You should see aluminum wheels on the Porsches & Jags & Audis, etc. out here. "NEW", too!
SALT WATER IN THE AIR SUCKS BIG TIME! Ya can't protect from the fog! IT SEEPS INTO EVERYTHING!
As in "salt on road" ya can "protect" but, it's a loosing battle.
I obtained my Firebird from (JENNIFER IS SUCH A BABE) Downtown LA. Also is a sticker stating "Sacramento", CA.
How rust got there, is beyond me, but.....

PLUS I tend not to rub it in to much about the rust free cars & exhausts out here. The stuff in the yards is so rust free & SO CHEAP (fenders $20!), I know ya'd cry when they crush it for "metal". It is so rare to see any fender or panel rust.
AND IT'S ONLY CAUSED BY LEAVES BLOCKING THE water flow thru channels.

Ask me about BONDO!
HEY WE'RE CLOSE BY THE "BORDER"

 

Car had bad transmission with no 3rd and 4th gear, thats why it went home in 2nd gear. Thats why the car was orginally parked.

After installing new cap/rotor, wires, plugs, battery, car started just fine and ran home just fine besides the tranny. OO, and don't forget that it had no breaks also. That was a interesting drive.

car has sat very little since then. Just about a month while I gathered the extra cash to pay for tranny rebuild, which is the only thing I do not do on a car.

As for the distrib rebuild artical I found, their was no info in it about rust or cracked parts. I didn't like the rusted parts. But car had to be back up and running the next day for a dr appointment. I did what I could do it at 9pm at night, and re-installed.

 

nobody can do anything on this board without fighting.

 

That was helpfull

 

hahaha
iunno, not so much here, but on other boards...i personally stopped coming here for alil while to go to f-bodychaos.org ....the people were much nicer, but for somereason the site has been dowwn for abit, so i come here. no offense if anyone takes it that way.

 

No offense here.

I just keep getting told to check/replace things I have already done/checked.

 

hey we only pick on the ones we love the most.

But this thread has gone on for a while and you don't seam to like anyones advice and plugs n wire and all the stuff will go bad quick if your ign system is wacked, and it sounds like it is, and so all the energy is going else where.

plugs can go bad quick, they dont even need to look dirty, my 79 aro did that once. some 79 cent champion plugs fixed everything, and I was going nuts doing everything else like you.

my 86 did that, I wen through it all, tore half my engine apart, replaced everything under the sun, 3 coils every sensor and just need a good tune up, even though it did not need it.

plugs wires cap n rotor.

find one of these for like 5 buck if you can.

 

What in the hell is that gumby???

I am going to find a different distrib, or new one depending on paycheck next week.


I also planned on installing new plugs. I'm sure they have gotten fouled when trying to start and no fire.

After that, if its not fixed, I'm gonna shoot the car in the left fender, and hope that fixes it

 

I have a crack in my butt , maybe thats why I fart so much sometimes !

Karl is very knowledgable (spelling) about cars ...VERY ! Maybe you read something the wrong way that he said . Or maybe he should have wrote something a little better . Come on guys ! Lets not fight , we're all on here to have fun and "us V6 guys" need to stick together !!!! It's not fun when you come on here to have pissing matches . I KNOW ! I use to have one atleast every two weeks . REMEMBER Billy ? .Sometimes its just best to keep your mouth shut when you dont like what someone says .

Wayne

 

That is an adjustable two position spark tester, one of the special tool we got at school.


But it can be had for cheap at most part shops that cary funky tools. It is nice that you can adjust it and just how far the spark will jump. Click the end to the plug or ground and stick the plug cap on which ever one reaches best. You can run it and watch each cyl spark. Rev the engine and look for miss fire at higher rpms.

a wire tach is nice also for tuning, just a spool of wire that you pull so much out for a set rpm level and then tune the engine till the wire looks like its not moving 900mph anymore.

 

oo, ok. Auto zone had something like that, just "prettier". I just try the old school trick myself....

Pull plug, stick back in wire, clamp jumper cables to spark plug and neg. battery terminal, then crank. I guess sometime I need to get more "up-to-date" tools

 

I guess sometime I need to get more "up-to-date" tools
When my ICM died, I only need reach for my trusty paperclip to confirm I had no spark to confirm the module died.
Again.
I also reached for the trusty paperclip to see "codes" telling me I had a lot of fuel go thru & stick around (running rich).

Paperclips are a great trick to track down many problems!
I asked this once before....


Anyone else ever set points using a matchbook cover?

The current Distributor is ill.

IF the plugs are the proper plugs (heat range) pull them & media blast em clean, check gap by eye, then toss them back in. Save the extra money.


Anyone elses gas prices rising fast?
After I get my S-10 Blazer runing, I'm fixing my motorcycles.
I have to swap on a larger low milage engine.
They say $2/gal by summer.